11-28 Nov Bahia d' Opunohu, Moorea, French Polynesia

 

This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our cruise in November-December 2023. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.

The Viking Daily newsletter showed today's weather forecast as "Cloudy 82° F" and "Sunrise: 6:19 AM."

Don woke at 5:30 am and woke MT at 6:00, as we neared Mo'orea.

Tuesday, November 28, ‎2023, 6:10 AM - Viking Star: first view of mountains on Moorea, at sunrise; Magic Mountain at right next to bridge of Viking Star.

The Viking Daily newsletter described our stop at “Moorea (Opunoha Bay*), French Polynesia” as follows: “The soaring massifs of Mou’a Roa and Mou’a Rotui watch over the narrow Opunoha Bay* like sentinels, providing a stunning preview of Moorea’s scenic splendor. This Windward island is one of the most magnificent and pristine of the Society Islands. Some 1,000 years ago, Polynesians settled here. In the 18th century, British explorers Samuel Wallis and James Cook sailed into Opunoha Bay*; the adjacent Cook’s Bay was named for the latter. Today, Moorea greets visitors with white-sand beaches, jagged peaks and lush, primeval landscapes. The turquoise lagoon is famously home to a playful pod of spinner dolphins.”
*The correct spelling of the bay is “Opunohu.”
 
Mo’orea, also spelled Moorea, is a volcanic island in French Polynesia, the remains of an ancient, half-eroded volcano. It is the second largest of the Windward Islands, a group that is part of the Society Islands. The name comes from the Tahitian word mo’ore’a, meaning “yellow lizard.” According to recent archaeological evidence, the Society Islands were probably settled from Samoa and Tonga around 200 AD. Nine tribal principalities emerged in the enclosed valleys, which in turn were subdivided into individual clans. For centuries, the leading families of Mo’orea remained linked by marriage and kinship with those of the neighboring Tahiti (11 miles to the southeast).
The first European to sight the island was the Portuguese navigation Pedro Fernandes de Queirós in 1606. The first Europeans to arrive on the island were the Englishmen Samuel Wallis and James Cook in the late 18th century.
Mo’orea is about 16 km (10 miles) across. The island is encircled by a coral reef that has 12 passes. There are two small, nearly symmetrical bays on the north shore. The one to the west is Opunohu Bay. The one to the east is Cook’s Bay. The two bays, at the center of what was once the volcano’s crater, are separated by Mount Rotui.

Opunohu Bay (French: Bahia d’ Opunohu) is a narrow bay, 3-km long and 80 m deep at the mouth, west of Cook’s Bay. It is in northwestern Moorea, where Mt. Rotui towers over the bay. Just to the south is Mt. Tohivea, Moorea’s highest mountain. Opunohu means “stomach of the stonefish,” and indeed the bay is home to many of these venomous fish.
The path into the bay is called Tareu, which means “shelter,” because it leads to a deep harbor protected from the winds. In 1777, Captain James Cook’s two ships came through the Tareu pass, and he described the bay as one of the best natural harbors in the South Pacific. This bay is where the HMS bounty moored to search for breadfruit, leading to the famous Mutiny on the Bounty. Today, cruise passengers moored offshore are typically ferried ashore on tenders, since there is no port in the bay.

Mo’orea: panoramic view from Belvedere Point on Mount Tohivea, looking toward Opunohu Bay on the left and Cook’s Bay on the right, separated by Mount Rotui (899 m), on the far left, and Mount Roa (880 m) in the center (By Evilkalla, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=33428105).

Magic Mountain (French Montagne Magnifique), at an elevation of 650 ft (200 m), is one of the highest mountains in Moorea. Although it is not exceptionally high, its volcanic peak is rugged and covered in thick bush. It offers great views of Moorea and beyond from a lookout near the summit. The beautiful view is the reason that Papetoaï Mountain, near the town of Papetoaï on the northwest coast of Moorea, has been called Magic Mountain.

6:23 AM - Viking Star: barrier reef and lagoon (lighter, turquoise blue).

6:24 AM - Viking Star: sunrise over Magic Mountain across lagoon, with bridge of Viking Star at far right.

MT 6:25 AM - Viking Star: sunrise over Magic Mountain across lagoon (telephoto 133 mm).

The Viking Star anchored in Opunohu Bay at 6:30.

6:38 AM (Cropped) - Viking Star: Marina with sailboats in lagoon; string of over-water bungalows of hotel or resort at point of Magic Mountain.

At 6:45, our Room Service Breakfast (requested for 6:30-6:45) arrived.

MT 7:48 AM - Viking Star: Marina with sailboats in lagoon; string of over-water bungalows of hotel or resort at point of Magic Mountain (telephoto 133 mm).

At 8:30, we went to the Star Theater (Deck 2) meeting place for the shore excursion "Aito Off-Road Safari" (3.5 hours). (MT had originally scheduled the shore excursion "Snorkeling Safari" for that afternoon, but after her problems with a snorkeling ecursion on an earlier day, she had exchanged it for this same-priced excursion, which Don had already reserved.) Our driver/guide was Tom.

The Viking Daily newsletter said: “For this operation the Ship will be utilizing our own Tender Boats to ferry all guests ashore. … your meeting time already includes the duration of the Tender ride which we estimate will take 30 minutes. … once you reach ashore you will be escorted from the tender platform to your mode of transportation.”
 
The My Viking Journey web site described the shore excursion “Aito Off-Road Safari” as follows:
$119 Per Person
Day 19 – Moorea (Opunohu Bay), French Polynesia
Tuesday, November 28
9:00 AM / 1:15 PM
3.5 Hours
DEMANDING
SIGHTSEEING

Journey Off the Beaten Track Through Lush Scenery
Climb on board a 4x4 for an invigorating drive through Moorea’s deep valleys and mountain paths.
 
Meet your driver and buckle your seat belt for this exciting journey as you discover more of this stunning Polynesian island. Take in the fresh scent of pineapples as you pass plantations, then cross to Opunohu Valley for a stop at a marae—an ancient ritual site of the Polynesian islands. Many of these sites date back more than 1,000 years and remained in use up until the 19th century. Continue your journey to Belvedere Lookout—an island viewpoint offering spectacular views over Moorea’s two bays, Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay. Then, travel through lush scenery as you learn about local flora. Stop to enjoy refreshments en route back to your ship.

8:50 AM - Mo'orea: our driver/guide Tom, at back of our 4x4, at tender dock (his shirt identified the tour operator "Moorea Explorer").

 

9:00 AM - Mo'orea: view, out the back of our 4 x 4, back down the rough road, to a second 4x4.

 

9:03 AM - Mo'orea: view of Viking Star anchored in Opunohu Bay.

 
Our first stop was at the Moorea Tropical Garden.

The Moorea Tropical Garden is perched on a small plateau on the western foothills of Mount Rotui on the east side of Opunohu Bay. It offers sweeping views of the lagoon and the wide expanse of Opunohu Bay. Visitors can sample the farm-to-table produce of this farming estate. You can see a collection of garden plots framed by a tropical forest. You can follow a narrow garden path that winds through lush vegetation, flowerbeds, and fascinating vanilla plantation plots. Depending on the season, you might see vanilla beans on their vines, as well as breadfruit, noni, and pineapple.

9:04 AM - Mo'orea: Moorea Tropical Garden - sign, in French and English, for "Visit Garden," inviting us to follow the path.

9:04 AM - Mo'orea: Moorea Tropical Garden - MT (at bottom left) starting to follow our driver/guide Tom down the path.

MT 9:05 AM - Mo'orea: Moorea Tropical Garden - starting to follow our driver/guide Tom down the path.

9:04 AM - Mo'orea: Moorea Tropical Garden - MT following Tom on the path, past a tree with a yellow fruit.

9:04 AM - Mo'orea: Moorea Tropical Garden - sign, in French and English, for "Vanilla"; the fine print reads: "We say that the vanilla of Tahiti is the best of the world. The vanilla plant must be fertilized every morning one by one if you want to get the vanilla beans 9 months later. As soon as the [bean?] starts being black, it can be picked and dried in the sun for 3-4 months every day."

9:05 AM - Mo'orea: Moorea Tropical Garden - path through vanilla nursery; Tom said it takes 9-24 months.

At 9:06, at the Moorea Tropical Garden stop, Don got a message that his camera had no space remaining on the memory card. So he had to delete some photos (mainly videos from our earlier "Central America and Panama" cruise) to free space until he could install a spare memory card for the afternoon.

MT 9:15 AM - Mo'orea: view of Viking Star anchored in Opunohu Bay (mild telephoto 55 mm).

MT 9:15 AM - Mo'orea:  another "Moorea Explorer" driver/guide at next stop (mild telephoto 55 mm).

MT 9:23 AM - Mo'orea: tree with red fruit near that stop (telephoto 118 mm).

MT 9:24 AM - Mo'orea:  view, back down paved road, to Viking Star anchored in Opunohu Bay, with two orange tenders in operation.

MT 9:36 AM - Mo'orea: after Moorea Tropical Garden - low-water bridge on paved road (mild telephoto 62 mm).

9:36 AM - Mo'orea: after Moorea Tropical Garden - we stopped to see the low-water bridge with eels swimming beyond it.

MT 9:38 AM - Mo'orea: after Moorea Tropical Garden - large eel starting to cross low-water bridge (telephoto 133 mm).

MT 9:38 AM - Mo'orea: after Moorea Tropical Garden - large eel swimming closer over low-water bridge (telephoto 133 mm).

9:38 AM - Mo'orea: low-water bridge with driver/guide from the other 4x4 using a can of makerels to lure swimming eels.

MT 9:40 AM - Mo'orea: low-water bridge with driver/guide from the other 4x4 using a can of makerels to lure swimming eels.

MT 9:42 AM - Mo'orea: low-water bridge with driver/guide from the other 4x4 after using a can of makerels to lure swimming eels.

9:52 AM - Mo'orea: avocado trees.

MT 9:52 AM - Mo'orea: avocado tree (telephoto 102 mm).

9:53 AM - Mo'orea: Tom showing us pineapples growing in plantation.

MT 9:53 AM - Mo'orea: pineapple growing in plantation.

MT 9:54 AM - Mo'orea: pineapple growing in plantation (mild telephoto 61 mm).

9:55 AM - Mo'orea: Mount Rotui.

Our next stop was at the Mo'orea Belvedere Lookout.

10:14 AM - Mo'orea: another view of Mount Rotui, from Mo'orea Belvedere Lookout parking lot at next stop; at the left are Opunohu Bay and Mount Roa on other side of bay.

The Mo'orea Belvedere Lookout, elevation 820 ft (250 m), is the highest viewpoint you can drive to in Mo'orea. Most people commonly refer to it as Belvedere Lookout. However, since the French word belvédère means lookout, that technically means “lookout lookout.” It is located near the Opunohu Valley, atop a hill surrounded by jagged mountains. From the observation deck, you can get a panoramic view of the northern half of the island. You see the giant Mount Rotui, which separates the island’s two central bays, Opunuhu Bay on the left and Cook’s Bay on the right.

MT 10:16 AM - Mo'orea: another view of Mount Rotui, from Mo'orea Belvedere Lookout parking lot.

10:03 AM - Mo'orea: Tom at back of 4x4, showing us a pineapple he had just picked.

10:17 AM - Mo'orea: Tom and other 4x4 driver/guide cutting up a pineapples for a snack at that stop.

MT 10:19 AM - Mo'orea: Tom, at back of 4x4, finishing cutting up a pineapple for a snack at that stop (mild telephoto 55 mm).

MT 10:20 AM - Mo'orea: pineapple snack, ready at back of our 4x4 (mild telephoto 58 mm).

Our next stop was at the Marae Titiroa historical site.

10:34 AM - Mo'orea: Marae Titiroa historical site - sign, in Tahitian, French, and English, for "Opunohu Valley, a Major Cultural Site"and "The Marae of the Land Ti'i-Rua" (in headings) ; rest of print too small to read.

In the once densely populated Opunohu Valley (French: Vallée d’Opunohu), the indigenous Polynesians (Maohi people) built numerous worship platforms (marae). The remains of these religious sites can be found everywhere off the road. (The plural of marae is marae or maraes.)
 
The Marae Titiroa Historical Site was a place of worship before European missionaries came to Mo’orea.
 
Marae Titiroa (Ti’i-Rua), the largest structure in this complex, was built in the mid-15th to early 16th centuries and enlarged in the 18th century. It was built on Ti’i-rua (double divinity) land, oriented toward Mount Roa. What we see today are the remains of an ancient stone temple (marae) on the edge of a dense forest of mape (Tahitian chestnut) trees. It was excavated in 1925 and again in 1960 and was reconstructed in 1969. The elevated interior platform has chestnut trees growing out of it, surrounded by a basalt stone perimeter wall (patu) 40 m long and 17 m wide. An elevated interior courtyard is partially paved with about 15 standing stones (ofa’i ti’a) and 2 backrest stones (ofa’i turu’i). At one end of the courtyard is a ceremonial platform (ahu) where prayers were said and animals were sacrificed. About 50 m to the northwest is a large assembly area where festivals were held and guests were received by the village leaders.
 
From the main marae, a walking path leads to the tohua (council platform) and two smaller marae.
 
Farther along this path is the multi-level Marae Ahu-o-Mahine, a more recent (17th-century) platform of round stones with an imposing three-stepped ahu (altar). It is thought to have been dedicated to Oro, god of fertility and war. Its name was given later, after Mahine, warrior chief of the Opunohu Valley in the late 18th century. The courtyard contains 2 backrest stones (ofa’I turu’i) and 6 standing stones (ofa’i ti’i). It is well preserved.
 
Marae Fare Aito, in the Opunohu Valley (0.3 mi from Marae Titiora, has a small raised terrace (ahu altar) and backrests that were used by the priests. It was flanked by two crescent-shaped archery platforms. Archery was an activity exclusively practiced by noblemen in the pre-European era.

10:53 AM - Mo'orea: sign with map of Marae Titiroa historical site - title at top left in Tahitian, French, and English for “Mountains Peaks of Mo’orea,” which are shown around the top of the map; a large green arrow points to the location of this site, in the Opunohu Valley, between Mount Rotui and Mount Roa; at bottom right is another title, only in French, for “Plan du Site” (Plan of the Site); below that is the legend for the main part of the site map: A = Marae Ti’i roa, B = Tohua (Council Platform), C = Simple marae, D = Marae Ahu-o-Mahine, E = Marae Fare-aito, F = Archery platforms.

The walking path to the left of Marae Titiroa leads to (2) simple marae (C) and the tohua (B), then farther left to Marae Ahu-o-Mahine (D). To the right of Marae Titiroa, near where the access road curves around, are Marae Fare-aito E) and the two crescent-shaped archery platforms (F).

MT 10:53 AM (Cropped) - Mo'orea: detail of map showing Marae Titiroa (identified by the "A" at the left), near the access road, with two large trees growing on the platform along with standing stones and support (backrest) stones; the white circle is for "You Are Here."

10:35 AM - Mo'orea: Marae Titiroa historical site - Marae Titiroa platform (panorama).

MT 10:36 AM - Mo'orea: Marae Titiroa historical site - Marae Titiroa platform.

MT 10:36 AM - Mo'orea: Marae Titiroa historical site - driver/guide of other 4x4 near parking lot, with stick (probably from a wauke tree) and leaves for demonstration.

The wauke (paper mulberry) is a small deciduous tree or shrub that can grow up to 50 ft high. Originally from Eastern Asia, wauke (broussonetia papyrifera) is well known throughout the Pacific, including Polynesia. In cultivation, wauke is kept short (less than 8 ft tall) and the side branches are removed so that a tall, straight trunk remains. This is done so that the bark can be stripped leaving no branch holes. The outer bark, as thick as a finger and about 4 ft long, can be manufactured into a tough and durable bark cloth that can function as cloth or paper depending on its preparation. The inner bark fibers are then soaked in running water, such as a tide pool. This breaks down the woody fibers and washes the starch away. A complicated process of soakings and fermentation follows, leaving the fine fibers of the moist inner bark still tough and resilient. At this time, the women might twist cordage out of the fibers, for use as fishnets or nets for carrying and hanging wood or gourds. After repeated soaking and fermentation, the fibers can be beaten on smooth rocks and laid between layers of banana leaves to ferment and soften. The pulp is then beaten with a mallet until a solid strip forms. The strips are then soaked again and expanded after beating. It is often doubled over and beaten again. It is beaten until the fibers begin to cling to each other like cloth. At this point, the cloth is hung in the sun to dry and bleach whiter. The soft, durable cloth can have multiple uses: bedding, clothing, wrapping, ceremonial uses, and decoration.

MT 10:38 AM - Mo'orea: Marae Titiroa historical site - driver/guide probably explaining how leaves of side branches are removed from wauke tree.

2434 MT 10:39 AM - Mo'orea: Marae Titiroa historical site - driver/guide stripping bark from wauke tree.

10:36 AM - Mo'orea: Marae Titiroa historical site - old chestnut trees growing in Marae Titiroa platform.

10:41 AM - Mo'orea: Marae Titiroa historical site - stone wall around Marae Titiroa platform.

10:48 AM - Mo'orea: Marae Titiroa historical site - moss-covered raised area (altar) at far end of Marae Titiroa platform.

10:48 AM - Mo'orea: Marae Titiroa historical site - view, from moss-covered raised area (altar) back to other end of Marae Titiroa platform, with trees in the middle.

MT 10:51 AM - Mo'orea: Marae Titiroa historical site - Don by platform

MT 11:26 AM - Mo'orea: (empty) cruise boat anchored in lagoon (mild telephoto 45 mm).

MT 11:40 AM - Mo'orea: Manutea Tahiti store.

Mo'orea Manutea, in or near the town of Piha’ena, is at west side of the mouth of Cook’s Bay. It is located at the same site as the Mo’orea Fruit Juice plant and specializes in the manufacture of alcoholic beverages, confectionery, and condiments. In addition to fruit juices, the twin companies share a distillery and confectionery.
Manutea means “white bird” in Tahitian.

MT 11:40 AM - Mo'orea: Manutea Tahiti store - Queen Tahiti Brut D'Ananas.

Queen Tahiti Brut D'Ananas, made by Manutea Tahiti, is a sparkling white wine made with Queen Tahiti pineapple grown at the foot of Mount Rotui, in the red earth of the old volcano, between Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay.
The local currency is the French Pacific Franc (XPF). According to the Viking Daily newsletter, the exchange rate was approximately XPF 108.4 to $1.00 USD. So the 4490 [XP]F price of one of these 175 ml bottles would be about $41.42.

12:07 PM - Mo'orea: heading back toward Viking Star, on Opunohu Bay at base of Magic Mountain.

At 12:40, back on Viking Star, we went to the World Café (Deck 7) for lunch.

MT 1:13 PM - Mo'orea: Magic Mountain.

1:21 PM - Mo'orea: view, from Viking Star, of mountains (Magic Mountain on left) on Opunohu Bay; in distance are Mount Roa and Mount Rotui at far end of the bay (panorama).

1:21 PM - Mo'orea: view, from Deck 8 of Viking Star, of Mount Roa and Mount Rotui at far end of Opunohu Bay.

1:21 PM - Mo'orea: view, from Viking Star, of Mount Roa and Mount Rotui at far end of Opunohu Bay (mild telephoto 58 mm).

MT 1:34 PM - Viking Star: Map of Mo'orea provided by Viking.

At 2:00, we went to the tender for the 30-minute ride to the on-shore meeting place for the (included) shore excursion "Moorea Lagoon & Scenic Cruise."

The My Viking Journey web site described the (included) shore excursion “Moorea Lagoon & Scenic Cruise” as follows:
Duration: 1.5 hours

Stunning Scenery of French Polynesia
Admire the beauty of Moorea from afar as you traverse the turquoise waters of the lagoon. Embark on a scenic cruise to the sounds of Tahitian music as you sail in the wake of explorers who crossed these waters during the 18th century. Samuel Wallis and Captain James Cook were the first Europeans to set foot on the island; Cook’s Bay was named in honor of the famed captain. During your cruise, marvel at the steep inclines of the jagged peaks that cover this idyllic isle—a sharp contrast to the soft, lush green forests and ferns that blanket them. See pastel-painted houses lining the shores surrounded by beautiful tropical flora, such as hibiscus. After your cruise, you will return to your ship feeling refreshed and relaxed.

The tender took us to the tour boat of Moorea Mahama Tours for the scenic cruise.

2:43 PM - Mo'orea: view, from tour boat, of Viking Star, near mountains on Opunohu Bay (Magic Mountain on left), with tops of Mount Roa and Mount Rotui at far end of  bay, now obscured by clouds.

MT 2:45 PM - Mo'orea: view, from tour boat, of Viking Star, near mountains on Opunohu Bay (Magic Mountain on left), with tops of Mount Roa and Mount Rotui at far end of  bay, now obscured by clouds (mild telephoto 45 mm).

MT 2:46 PM - Mo'orea: crew member with shirt from  "Moorea Mahana Tours" demonstrating life vest (mild telephoto 67 mm).

2:54 PM - Mo'orea:  clouds now lifting from tops of Mount Roa and Mount Rotui at far end of  bay.

3:03 PM - Mo'orea:  white sand beach.

3:07 PM - Mo'orea: over-water bungalows of hotel or resort (mild telephoto 68 mm).

MT 3:08 PM - Mo'orea: over-water bungalows of hotel or resort (telephoto 133 mm).

3:10 PM - Mo'orea: view of waves breaking over reef.

MT 3:14 PM - Mo'orea: waves breaking over reef (telephoto 133 mm).

MT 3:16 PM - Mo'orea: Crew member entertaining with ukulele (mild telephoto 67 mm).

3:46 PM - Mo'orea: Mount Rotui (telephoto 79 mm).

MT 3:39 PM - Mo'orea: Mount Rotui (telephoto 133 mm).

3:54 PM - Mo'orea: more waves breaking over reef.

4:03 PM - Mo'orea: Viking Star anchored near Magic Mountain in bay, with Mount Roa and Mount Rotui in distance.

4:05 PM - Mo'orea: sunken ship in bay.

MT 4:07 PM - Mo'orea: sunken ship in bay (telephoto 74 mm).

4:05 PM - Mo'orea: Papetoaï - octagonal church, with Magic Mountain at right.

4:09 PM - Mo'orea: Papetoaï - octagonal church (telephoto 130 mm).

Papetoaï (Papetoai or Papeto'ai) is a small town located on the northwestern coast of Mo’orea, on the western side of Opunohu Bay.
 
The Pomare dynasty was the reigning family of the Kingdom of Tahiti from the unification of the different chiefdoms of Tahiti into a single kingdom by Pomare I in 1788 to the ceding of the kingdom to France in 1880. Pomare I was the first king of Tahiti in 1788-91. He abdicated in 1791 but remained in power from 1791 to 1803 as the guardian regent during the minority of his successor Pomare II, who reigned from 1791 to 1821.
In 1808, after he failed to bring all of Tahiti under his command, Pomare II was forced from Tahiti and took refuge in Mo’orea until he returned and defeated his enemies and regained his power in 1815, thanks to English Protestant missionaries. While in exile, he believed that he had lost favor with the god Oro and, aided by missionaries, he began to pay more attention to the God of the Christians. In 1815, he proclaimed himself King of Tahiti and Mo’orea in the name of the Christian God. He was baptized in 1819.
Papetoaï, on Mooréa island, was the place of residence of the royal family of Pomare. It became the administrative center until the beginning of the 20th century.
 
Protestant missionaries from the London Missionary Society settled at Papetoaï, formerly Fa’ato’ai, in 1808, a starting point for the evangelization of the other islands. Here, they built a first wooden temple in an octagonal shape, as a tribute to the original name of Moorea, Aimeho i te rara varau (Aimeho of eight tentacles), so called because of a legendary octopus that lived in Opunohu Bay and had to do with the eight chains of mountains on the island.* They built their temple directly on top of an ancient marae that was the largest and most important in Mo’orea. The second temple was built of whitewashed coral stone between 1887 and 1891 on the same site, once again in octagonal form, about 60 ft on each side.
The octagonal church is called the Temple of Papetoaï (Papetoaï Temple, Papetoaï Protestant Temple, Church of Papetoaï, or Protestant Church of Papetoaï) but sometimes referred to as the Ebenezer Temple (or Ebenezer Church). Though rebuilt several times, it is considered the oldest European building and the oldest Christian church still in use in Polynesia and the South Pacific.
_______
* For the whole story of the Légende De La Pieuvre De Papetoai (Legend of the Octopus of Papetoaï), see https://www.commune-moorea.net/ova_por/legende-de-la-pieuvre-de-papetoai/ .

MT 1:34 PM - Mo'orea: map provided by Viking, with red oval Don added around Papetoaï.

Although we had pre-ordered dinner at The Restaurant, the resaurant hostess Princess said we didn't have to use it. Then we went to Manfredi's Italian Restaurant (Deck 1) at 6:00 to ask about getting another reservation for the one we had missed on November 17. They said they could take us right then.

MT 6:07 PM - Viking Star: MT with our bottle of Rèmole wine from Frescobaldi winery inTuscany at Manfredi's.

6:55 PM - Viking Star: Don's menu for The Restaurant November 29; from this side he ordered only "Frech Fruit Plate" (melon, pineapple & berries" under Deserts but used arrow at bottom left to say to see the other side.

6:55 PM - Viking Star: Don's menu for The Restaurant November 29; from other side he ordered "Heirloom Beets and Cherry Tomtoes Confit" (roasted young beets with arugula, shaved feta, oregano vinaigrette) under Starters; "Broiled Grouper Fillet with Ligurian Olives" (beurre rouge, fennel-potato gratin, snow peas, corn) under Main Courses.

The Viking Daily newsletter said all passengers needed to be back on board by 10:00, as the Viking Star prepared to set sail forour next stop at Pateete, Tajiti (56 nautical miles).