11-18 Nov Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii

 

This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our cruise in November-December 2023. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.

The Viking Daily newsletter showed today's weather forecast as "Sunny 82° F" and "Sunrise: 6:43 AM."

Don woke at 6 am (MT was already up).

MT Saturday, November 18, ‎2023,  6:14 AM - O'ahu: Honolulu - harbor and city lights, tug boat approaching, and bridge of Viking Star at far right.

Oahu (Hawaiian O’ahu) is the third-largest of the Hawaiian Islands and the most populated with approximately 70 % of the total population of the US state of Hawaii and with approximately 81 % of those living in or near the Honolulu urban area. The island is often nicknamed “The Gathering Place,” a translation of the Hawaiian phrase. This island and several minor outlying islands, including the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands constitute the Honolulu County (officially known as the City and County of Honolulu), formerly Oahu County.
The island has been inhabited since at least the 3rd century AD. (According to Encyclopedia Britannica, Tahitians established permanent settlements on O’ahu around 500 AD.) The Kingdom of Oahu was once ruled by the most ancient ali’i (chiefs) in the islands. The first great king of Oahu was Ma’ilikūkahi, a High Chief (ali’i nui) around 1480 AD, who was followed by generations of monarchs. In 1783, Kahekili II, King of Maui, conquered Oahu, deposing the reigning family, and made his son Kalanikūpule king of O’ahu, turning Oahu into a puppet state. Kamehameha I, King of the island of Hawai’i, conquered Kalanikūpule’s forces. With the conquest of O’ahu in 1795, Kamehameha founded the Kingdom of Hawai’i, with his capital in Lahaina on the island of Maui. In 1845, Kamehameha III moved his capital to Honolulu.
O’ahu was apparently the first of the Hawaiian islands to be discovered by Captain James Cook on his third Pacific Expedition in 1778. However, O’ahu was not actually visited by Europeans until 1779.
 
Honolulu (Hawaiian Hono’lulu) is the capital and most populous city of the US state of Hawaii. An unincorporated city, it is the county seat of the consolidated City and County of Honolulu. (Hawaii is the only state with no incorporated places below the county level.) Honolulu is Hawaiian for “sheltered harbor” or “calm port.” It is situated along the southeast coast of O’ahu. Honolulu has been the capital of the Hawaiian Islands since 1845, firstly of the independent Kingdom of Hawaii, since 1898 of the US territory of Hawaii, and since 1959 of the state of Hawaii.
Evidence of the first settlement of Honolulu by the original Polynesian migrants to the archipelago comes from oral history and artifacts. These indicate that there was a settlement where Honolulu now stands in the 11th century AD. After Kamehameha conquered O’ahu in 1795, he moved his royal court from the island of Hawai’i to Waikiki in 1804.
In 1794, the first foreigners (British) sailed into what is now Honolulu Harbor. More foreign ships followed, making the port of Honolulu a focal point for merchant ships traveling between North America and Asia. The settlement grew from a handful of homes to a city in the early 19th century after Kamehameha I chose it as a replacement for his residence at Waikiki in 1810. His court relocated in 1809 to what is now downtown Honolulu, but the capital was moved back to the island of Hawaii in 1812. In 1845, Kamehameha III moved the permanent capital of the Kingdom of Hawaii from Lahaina to Honolulu. He and the kings who followed him transformed Honolulu into a modern capital.
Despite the turbulent history of the late 19th and early 20th centuries—such as the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy in 1893, Hawaii’s annexation by the US in 1898, a large fire in 1900, and the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941—Honolulu remained the Hawaiian Islands’ capital, largest city, and main seaport and airport.
 
The Viking Daily newsletter for Nov 18 gave the following description of Oahu (Honolulu), Hawaii”:
“Oahu hosts a rich variety of Eastern and Western traditions and cuisine. The rising crater of Diamond Head overlooking Waikiki Beach in Honolulu embodies the profusion of natural beauty on the island, Hawaii’s third largest. Its 125 stunning beaches are mere prelude to the crystalline lagoons, cascading waterfalls and dense rainforests that grace this stunning natural paradise known as ‘The Gathering Place.” Kamehameha I founded the Kingdom of Hawaii on these shores. Famously, the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941 pulled the United States into World War II.”

MT 6:15 AM - O'ahu: Honolulu - tug boat, with harbor and city lights in background.

MT 6:32 AM - O'ahu: Honolulu - harbor and city with sunrise.

Room service breakfast came at 6:30, including papaya (which we saved for the evening) and "nuts" (so spicy we had to wash them).

According to the Viking Daily newsletter, the Viking Star was scheduled to arrive at Honolulu Harbor at 7:00 am.

At 8:30, we went to the parking lot of the Terminal for our (included) shore excursion "Honolulu Highlights and Pearl Harbor," which the My Viking Journey web site had described as follows:

Honolulu Highlights & Pearl Harbor
INCLUDED
Day 9 – Oahu (Honolulu), Hawaii, United States
Saturday, November 18
8:30 AM / 9:00 AM / 9:30 AM / 10:15 AM / 10:30 AM / 10:45 AM / 11:15 AM / 11:30 AM / 12:00 PM
3.5 Hours
MODERATE
SIGHTSEEING
Panoramic sights and delve into World War II history
See Honolulu’s sights and explore Pearl Harbor’s Visitor Center for a glimpse into Hawaii’s World War II history.
Meet your guide at the pier and embark on a scenic drive through Honolulu’s Downtown area and Chinatown district. Witness the magnificent City Hall and the Iolani Palace, the only royal palace on American soil, and pass by Kawaiahao Church, the Hawaii State Capitol, the governor’s mansion and the homes of early missionaries. After your drive, you will stop at Pearl Harbor, where you will learn about the fateful attack that took almost 2,500 lives. At the Visitor Center, stroll the exhibits that document the events before the surprise attack and its aftermath, including displays of personal memorabilia, dramatic photographs and artifacts.

We drove past 'Iolani Palace.

8:41 AM - O'ahu: Honolulu - view, from bus window, of Palace Grounds, with kukui and palm trees and 'Iolani Palace in background; MT with iPhone at bottom left.

8:41 AM - O'ahu: Honolulu - view, from bus window, of 'Iolani Palace, behind kukui and palm trees; MT with iPhone at bottom left.

MT 8:41 AM - O'ahu: Honolulu - view, from bus window, of 'Iolani Palace, behind palm trees and kukui tree at left. 

O'ahu: Honolulu - ‘Iolani Palace (Gage Skidmore from Surprise, AZ, United States of America - Iolani Palace, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=115138912).

‘Iolani Palace (Hawaiian: Hale Ali’i ‘Iolani) was the royal residence of the rulers of the Kingdom of Hawai’i beginning with Kamehameha III (1845) and ending with Queen Lili’uokalani (1893). Originally, the palace was called Hale Ali’i meaning “House of the Chiefs,” but the name was changed to add ‘Iolani during the reign of King Kamehameha (ruled 1863-72) after the given names of his brother Kamehameha IV (ruled 1855-63), whose full name was Alexander Liholiho Keawenui ‘Iolani, with ‘io meaning “royal hawk.” The palace, in the unique style known as American Florentine, is located in the capitol district of downtown Honolulu. The monarchy was overthrown by a coup d’etat against Queen Lili’uokalani in 1893, led by the Committee of Safety composed of foreign residents and Hawaiian Kingdom subjects of American descent. The Committee prevailed on the American minister to call in the US Marines to protect the national interests of the US. The insurgents established the Republic of Hawaii, but their ultimate goal was the annexation of the islands to the United States, which occurred in 1898. After the overthrow, the building was used as the capitol building for the Provisional Government, Republic, Territory, and State of Hawai’i until 1969. The palace was restored and opened to the public as a museum in 1978.

The 'Iolani Palace State Monument includes the palace and the Palace Grounds. The significance of the the land around 'Iolani Palace stretches back to antiquity. It is thought to have been the site of an ancient heiau (place of worship). Today, they contain lovely native plants.

8:42 AM - O'ahu: Honolulu - view, from bus window, of Missionary Houses near palace; visible here are the Oldest Frame House on the left, the Print House in the right center, and part of the Chamberlain House at the far right.

The Hawaiian Mission Houses Historic Site and Archives was established in 1920 on the 100th anniversary of the arrival of the first Christian missionaries in Hawai’i from New England. The “missionary period” in Hawai’i lasted from 1820 to 1863. The mission was supported by the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions based in Boston. The missionaries worked with the Native Hawaiians to introduce Christianity, as well as to develop a written language, public education, western medicine, and representative government. In 1962, the Mission Houses, consisting of three historic buildings, were designated a US National Historical Landmark.

O'ahu: Honolulu - Oldest Frame House (By Joel Bradshaw - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6626672).

 
The Oldest Frame House (Ka Hale Lā'au "The Wood House"), built in 1821, is the oldest Western-style frame house in Hawai’i and the oldest still standing house on the islands. Boards were produced in New England and then shipped around Cape Horn to Hawai’i ready to be assembled for the mission house. Though principally occupied by members of the Chamberlain family, it often housed other missionary families, along with ailing sailors or orphans.

O'ahu: Honolulu - Chamberlain House (By Joel Bradshaw - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6626690).

 
The Chamberlain House (Ka Hale Kamalani), built in 1831, was built from coral blocks cut from reefs offshore and lumber salvaged from ships. It was designed by the mission’s quartermaster, Levi Chamberlain, to hold supplies as well as people. It had two stories, an attic, and a cellar.

O'ahu: Honolulu - Print House (By Joel Bradshaw - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6626762).

 
The third historic building is the Print House (Ka Hale Pa'i). In 1841, a covered porch and balcony were added to the frame house, and an extra bedroom, known as the Bedroom Annex, was built next door out of coral blocks to create housing for more mission families. The extra coral building later became the mission’s Print House, where the first printed materials in the Hawaiian language were printed on a press brought by missionaries in 1820 (the first printing press in the islands).

MT 8:45 AM - O'ahu: Honolulu - view, from bus window, of monkey pod or kukui trees in front of a 16-story government office building that a sign on the front identified as "Frank F. Fasi Municipal Building"; the small green and white sign at the left is for "Tree City USA" designation by the "Arbor Day Foundation."

The City and County of Honolulu was designated as a Tree City USA by the Arbor Day Foundation. In 2022, Honolulu received a Growth Award for its tree care and environmental improvements.

8:46 AM - O'ahu: Honolulu - view, from bus window, of statue of St. Damien outside the Hawaii State Capitol Building; inscription on base reads: "The Reverend Joseph Damien De Veuster SS.CC. - Father Damien - Hawaii" (telephoto 93 mm).

Father Damien or Saint Damien of Molokai SSCC or Saint Damien De Veuster (1840-1889), born Josef De Veuster, was a Roman Catholic priest from Belgium and a member of the Congregation of the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary, abbreviated SS.CC, a missionary religious institute. He was recognized for his ministry, which he led from 1873 until his death in 1889, to people with leprosy who lived in government-mandated quarantine in a settlement on the Kalaupapa Peninsula of the Hawaiian island of Moloka'i. After 11 years caring for those in the leper colony, Father Damien contracted leprosy. He continued with his work but finally succumbed to the disease in 1889. He was beatified in 1995 and canonized in 2009. Father Damien Day, April 15, the day of his death, is a statewide holiday in Hawaii.

MT 8:48 AM - O'ahu: Honolulu - view, from bus window, of statue of St. Damien outside the Hawaii State Capitol Building; inscription on base reads: "The Reverend Joseph Damien De Veuster SS.CC. - Father Damien - Hawaii" (telephoto 110 mm).

8:59 AM - O'ahu: Honolulu - view, from bus window, of Aloha Stadium; our driver/guide said something about a stadium made of wood, but that was apparently the old Honolulu Stadium that it replaced.

Aloha Stadium is a now-closed multipurpose stadium located in Halawa, a western suburb of Honolulu. Constructed of steel, it opened in 1975, replacing the old Honolulu Stadium, built mostly of wood, as Honolulu’s main outdoor stadium and closed in 2020. It hosted high school and college football games, as well as the NFL Pro Bowl from 1980 through 2016 (except 2010 and 2015).

Then we arrived at the Pearl Harbor National Memorial.

9:09 AM - O'ahu: Pearl Harbor - entrance sign for "Pearl Harbor National Memorial" which indicates that it includes "USS Arizona Memorial," "USS Oklahoma Memorial," and "USS Utah Memorial."

Pearl Harbor is a lagoon harbor on the island of O’ahu, 8.7 miles west of Honolulu. It was originally called Wai Momi, meaning “Waters of Pearl,” in Hawaiian. It was often used by the naval fleet of the United States, before it was acquired from the Hawaiian Kingdom by the US in 1875. Much of the harbor and surrounding lands are now a US Navy deep-water naval base. It is also the headquarters of the US Pacific Fleet.
 
Pearl Harbor National Memorial is part of the US National Park System. The site commemorates the events of the Japanese surprise attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, which killed over 2,400 Americans and sank 12 ships. The attack led the US to declare war on the Empire of Japan. The site includes the USS Arizona Memorial.

MT 9:11 AM - O'ahu: Pearl Harbor - Don with entrance sign for "Pearl Harbor National Memorial."

We had to take a shuttle boat to the USS Arizona Memorial on Ford Island.

MT 9:32 AM - Pearl Harbor: US Navy crew of shuttle boat.

9:36 AM - Pearl Harbor: first sight of USS Arizona Memorial (in distance) from shuttle boat.

Pearl Harbor: Aerial view of USS Arizona Memorial with remains of USS Arizona visible below water and a US Navy Tour Boat moored at the pier as visitors disembark (By DoD photo by: PH3(AW/SW) JAYME PASTORIC, USN - This image was released by the United States Navy. Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2633538).

 
The USS Arizona Memorial is the final resting place for over 900 of the ship’s 1,177 crewmen who lost their lives on December 7, 1941. In has come to commemorate all military personnel killed in the Pearl Harbor attack. The 184-ft-long memorial structure, built in 1962, spans the mid-portion of the sunken battleship without touching it.
The Pearl Harbor program consists of a 23-minute documentary film of the actual attack, a 10-minute boat ride to the USS Arizona Memorial, 15 minutes at the memorial, and a 10-minute boat ride back.
 
Ford Island (Hawaiian: Poka ‘Ailana) is an islet in the center of Pearl Harbor. By 1939, it was taken over by the US Navy as a station for battleship and submarine maintenance. Into the 1940s, the island continued to grow as a strategic center of operations of the US Navy in the Pacific Ocean.
Ford Island was the center of the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor and the US Pacific Fleet in 1941. Before dawn, the US strategic center in the Pacific consisted of the seven battleships moored along Battleship Row and the six pairs of interrupted quays along the east side of the island. The battleships were the Japanese attackers’ primary targets. Twenty-four of the forty Japanese torpedo planes were assigned to attack Battleship Row, and 5 more came over to that side of Ford Island after failing to find battleships in other parts of the harbor.
 

Pearl Harbor: The formation of ships on Battleship Row (CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=209891).

 
The island continues to serve an active role in the Pacific.

9:45 AM - Pearl Harbor:  USS Arizona Memorial - circular mount (barbette) of Gun Turret No. 3, projecting above surface and surrounded by oil slick still leaking from the ship.

A barbette (from French for St. Barbara, patron of artillerymen) was originally a platform for guns of a fort. In recent naval usage, a barbette is a protective circular armored mount for a heavy gun turret on a warship.
 
Oil leaking from the sunken battleship USS Arizona can still be seen rising from the wreckage to the water’s surface. This oil is sometimes referred to as “the tears of the Arizona” or “black tears.” The ship had been refueled shortly before being sunk. With nearly 1,500 gallons aboard, the ship would be ready to make a return voyage to the US mainland toward the end of the month. When the Japanese bombed the ship, the fuel exploded, causing terrible fires. However, not all of the fuel blew up with the ship. Every day, approximately a quart of oil bubbles up to the surface from somewhere inside the ship.

9:45 AM - Pearl Harbor:  USS Arizona Memorial - what Don thought looked like a smokestack protruding from the water was later identified as the severed mainmast with a flagpole attached to its left; the "USS Arizona BB 39" identified the mooring station on "Battleship Row."

As a special tribute to the ship and her lost crew, the United States flag flies from a flagpole that is attached to the severed mainmast.
 
The USS Arizona is also identified as BB-39. These letters are technically called “hull classification symbols.” For some types of ships, a letter was simply repeated, as in “BB” for battleship, “DD” for destroyer, and “SS” for submarine. When combined with sequential numbers, indicating the order in which they were produced, they are known as “hull numbers.” Generally, ships retained their assigned hull numbers throughout their “lives.”

MT 9:46 AM - Pearl Harbor:  USS Arizona Memorial - top of severed mainmast with a flagpole attached to its left; the "USS Arizona BB 39" identified the mooring station on "Battleship Row" (mild telephoto 58 mm).

9:49 AM - Pearl Harbor:  USS Arizona Memorial - the "Viewing Well," a window in floor of the memorial for viewing remnants below (unclear).

9:50 AM - Pearl Harbor:  USS Arizona Memorial - clearer view of part of the ship below; the large semicircular object is a gun tub.

A gun tub (or guntub) is a circular shield around a ship’s gun. On the USS Arizona, raised, protected fighting positions, called “gun tubs,” were constructed for the gun mounts and their crews.

9:49 AM - Pearl Harbor:  USS Arizona Memorial - wall with names of the dead.

9:52 AM - Pearl Harbor:  USS Arizona Memorial - sign for "This Sacred Site", text at top left reads:

"This memorial honors the fallen crew of the USS Arizona and all those who died in the attack on December 7, 1941. The remains of over 900 Arizona crewmen rest beneath you within the sunken battleship. Just ahead is an open area where you can look down onto the ship. The Shrine Room beyond displays the names of the 1,177 Arizona crewmen lost in the attack. Another list honors Arizona survivors who have rejoined their shipmates in the waters below."

Text just below that reads:

"A National Park Service diver holds an urn containing the ashes of an Arizona crewman. She will place it within the circular barbette what once held gun turret 4."

Text at bottom right reads:

"It's  a large hole and we place the urn through and then you can kind of feet it release ... I tell the family, when I feel that pull, it's the ship accepting one of its own back.

"NPS Dive Team Member"

9:53 AM - Pearl Harbor:  USS Arizona Memorial - bronze plaque that reads:

"Dedicated to the eternal memory of our gallant shipmates in the USS Arizona who gave their lives in action 7 December 1941

" 'From today on the USS Arizona will again fly our country's flag just as proudly as she did on the morning of 7 December 1941. I am sure the Arizona's crew will know and appreciate what we are doing.' Admiral A.M. Radford, USN 7 March 1950

"May God make his face to shine upon them and grant them peace."

NOTE: Just behind the plaque is the base of the flagpole that is attached to the severed mainmast.

MT 9:54 AM - Pearl Harbor:  USS Arizona Memorial - place where oil is rising to surface, with marker of mooring station of "USS Vestal AR 4" in background; AR is the hull identification code for repair ship (mild telephoto 37 mm).

The repair ship USS Vestal (AR-4) was moored alongside the USS Arizona on Battleship Row on the morning of 7 December 1941, when Japanese aircraft swept down shortly before 8 am. It was hit by two Japanese bombs intended for the Arizona and received additional damage from the force and heat of Arizona’s explosion. Casting loose from the sunk and burning battleship at about 8:30, the Vestal moved up the harbor a short distance and anchored. However, one of the bomb hits caused her to flood aft, and the water could not be controlled in the ship’s old hull. Accordingly, she hoisted her anchor and was beached on Pearl Harbor’s northeastern corner. The Vestal was repaired by mid-February 1942 and returned to service in the South Pacific. It became the most decorated non-combat ship of World War II.

9:56 AM - Pearl Harbor:  USS Arizona Memorial - diagrams of USS Arizona, the one at the top captioned "Before Attack -- December 1941" and the bottom one "Remains of Ship Today."

9:56 AM - Pearl Harbor:  USS Arizona Memorial - diagrams of USS Arizona, the one at the bottom captioned "Remains of Ship Today"; the two white objects in the foreground are labeled "Mooring Quay."

9:56 AM (Cropped) - Pearl Harbor:  USS Arizona Memorial - diagram of USS Arizona, captioned "Remains of Ship Today"; this photo helped Don identify some of the items in our earlier photos: text next to red box at bottom left reads: "Parts of ship often visible above or just below the water." Those parts include those labeled "Memorial flagstaff attached to mast leg" up against the side of the Memorial" and circular "Base of Gun Turret No.3" straight out from that. Just to the lower right of that is an object labeled "Oil still leaks from this hatch." The semicircular object next to the "Viewing well" is labeled "Gun tub."

9:58 AM - Pearl Harbor: USS Arizona Memorial - our group exiting the Memorial to reboard the shuttle boat; visible just to the right of the structure is the US flag flying from the flagpole attached to the severed mainmast.

When we arrived back at the Visitors Center by the park entrance, we immediately went to the Theater to see the documentary film. However, the showings began at 10:15 (which we had just missed) and again at 10:45. With time to kill, we visited the two museums that are also part of the Visitors Center.

First, we visited the Road to War Museum.

10:21 AM - Pearl Harbor: Road to War Museum - entrance with sign that reads:

"A Gathering Storm

"Conflict is brewing in Asia. The old world order is changing. Two new powers, the United States and Japan, are rising to take leading roles on the world stage. Both seek to further their own national interests. Both hope to avoid war. Both have embarked on courses of action that will collide at Pearl Harbor.

"This exhibition contains material that may be too intense for children and some visitors, and includes ethnic references some may find offensive."

10:22 AM - Pearl Harbor: Road to War Museum - sign for "Expansion in Asia 1853-1914"; text reads:

"Western powers stake claims in Asia as Japan emerges from more than two centuries of isolation.

"Japan's long period of cultural isolation from the West ended in 1853, when Commodore Matthew Calbraith Perry led a U.S. Navy expedition into Tokyo Bay to open Japan to trade and diplomatic relations. The United States sought access to new markets in Asia, while Britain, Germany, France, and Russia were claiming new territories and economic resources. By the late 19th century, Japan had also begun to expand its influence."

The photo below that text reads: "U.S. Cavalryman, Philippines, 1898."

The timeline at the right reads:

"1868 - The Meiji Restoration: the Japanese emperor is returned to power after centuries of shogun rule. Japan embraces Western technology and begins moving from a feudal to an industrial society.

"1894-95 - Japan defeats China in the Sino-Japanese War and adds Taiwan to its holdings.

"1898-99 - America acquires the Philippines and Guam in the Spanish-American War, annexes Hawai'i, and obtains Samoa and Wake Island."

10:22 AM - Pearl Harbor: Road to War Museum - sign for "Troubled Times 1929-1941"; text reads:

"World economic crisis ushers in the  Great Depression. America turns inward, while Germany, Italy, and Japan seek to expand.

"The rise of nazism in Germany, fascism in Italy, and militarism in Japan led to global destabilization and threatened democracy. A stock market crash sent the United States into economic depression. Military action by the Japanese in China, the Italians in Ethiopia, and the Germans in Poland sowed the seeds of global war.

"In response to Japanese aggression in Asia, the United States imposed economic embargos and deployed its Pacific Fleet in Pearl Harbor. Commercial attaché Frank W. Williams wrote, 'Perhaps the phase of our order which struck the deepest into the sensibilities of the Japanese was that at last the United States has shown this country that it is no longer bluffing.' "

Caption of photo below reads: "Hitler's Nazis, Nuremberg, Germany, 1938"

The timeline at the right reads:

"1929 - The American stock market crashes, triggering the Great Depression.

"1931-33 - Japan seizes Manchuria and creates the puppet state of Manchukio. Condemned for invading Manchuria, Japan quits the League of Nations. The military solidifies control over the government in Tokyo.

"1937 - Japan launches an undeclared war against China. The Japanese sink the gunboat USS Panay near Nanking, increasing tension between the U.S. and Japan."

"1938 - Germany invades Austria. Britain and France do not interfere. Japan takes notice.

"1939 - Germany invaded Poland, igniting World I in Europe.

"1940 - Japanese troops occupy Indochina. Japan signs the Tri-Partite Pact with German and Italy, creating the Tokyo-Rome-Berlin Axis.

1941 - The U.S. seizes Japanese and Chinese financial assets and cuts off all exports to Japan."

10:23 AM - Pearl Harbor: Road to War Museum - sign for "Intervene or Not?"; text reads:

"Horrified by World War I and struggling through the Depression, many Americans turned increasingly inward. The America First Committee crusaded against involvement in foreign affairs. Renowned aviator Charles Lindbergh championed non-interventionism, declaring, 'Our Safety does not lie in fighting European wars. It lies in the American people and American institutions.' Others argued that America could not turn its back on China and the European democracies, especially embattled Britain."

Caption of photo to the right reads:

"Anti-war rally, New York City, 1939."

Text to right of photo reads:

"[']In short, America, alone in a jealous and hostile world, would find that the effort and cost of maintaining 'splendid isolation' would be such as to bring about the destruction of all those values which the isolation policy has been designed to preserve.'

"Joseph P. Kennedy, U.S. Ambassador to Great Britain, March 1939."

10:25 AM - Pearl Harbor: Road to War Museum - sign for "Secret Codes"; the first part of text reads: "The U.S. military had great success breaking Japanese codes"; Broken Like 'Magic'; and "Break the Code" (rest of text too small to read).

Next, we went to the Attack Museum.

10:28 AM - Pearl Harbor: Attack Museum - sign for "Tora! Tora! Tora!"; text reads:

"These Japanese code words signal that surprise is complete. Those who see the low-flying planes think it is a training exercise. The first wave hits its targets just before 0755. An American alert is quickly sent: 'Air Raid Pearl Harbor this is no drill.' A second wave strikes an hour later. By 0955 the attack is over."

10:28 AM - Pearl Harbor: Attack Museum - sign for "Aerial Torpedo Attack Diagram" text reads:

"To succeed, aircraft had to descend to an elevation of approximately 30 feet above sea level. Torpedo dives to 33 feet, then rises to  depth of 10 to 20 feet."

Plane is identified as "Torpedo Bomber," and below it is "Aerial Torpedo." Just below the torpedo is "USS Arizona."

10:29 AM - Pearl Harbor: Attack Museum - map with sign for "Opana Radar Plot": text reads:

"Opana radar operators created this plot showing the unidentified incoming planes approaching the north shore of O'ahu in the early morning hours of December 7.

"These planes later proved to be the Japanese attack force."

MT 10:34 AM - Pearl Harbor: Attack Museum -  model of "USS Arizona Today" with the Memorial structure over it (panorama).

10:32 AM - Pearl Harbor: Attack Museum -  model of "USS Arizona Today" (title seen in reflection) with the Memorial structure over it.

10:29 AM - Pearl Harbor: Attack Museum - another view of model of "USS Arizona Today" with the Memorial structure over it.

10:32 AM - Pearl Harbor: Attack Museum - overhead view of another (metal) model of  USS Arizona Today, with the Memorial structure over it.

After the documentary, we had to rush back to our tour bus. We had been told to be back there at a certain time, or we would have to find our own way back to the ship. 

MT 10:34 AM - Honolulu: view, through bus window, of downtown building with "Moon Hina" mural painted on side (mild telephoto 42 mm).

The large mural ”Moon Hina” was painted by the Hawaiian artist Kamea Hadar in 2017 on the seaward side of the 14-story Halawa View Apartments building in the Honolulu suburb of Halawa. It depicts Hina, the Hawaiian goddess of the moon. The mural is 165 ft tall. The building is directly across the street from the parking lot of the USS Arizona Memorial. 

We got back to the Viking Star at 11:50, in time for lunch.

A little before 1:00, we went to the parking lot of the Terminal to meet our bus and driver/guide for our afternoon (optional) shore excursion "Diamond Head Hike," scheduled to meet at 1:00. Interestingly, Robert Riddell, the Shore Excursion Manager, who did all the Port Talks for excursions, came along with our group.

Viking had the following description of the shore excursion:
Diamond Head Hike
Duration: 3 hours 30 minutes
Active, Natural World, Demanding*
Trek to the Top of Iconic Hawaiian Landmark
Ascend to the summit of Diamond Head on an invigorating hike full of awe-inspiring island views. Created during a massive eruption approximately 300,000 years ago, Diamond Head is Hawaii’s most iconic landmark renowned for its striking coastal views. You will transfer from your ship to the trailhead, where you will receive a short briefing from your knowledgeable local guide before starting off on your hike to the summit. Though less than a mile in distance, your picturesque route will ascend more than 500 feet, traversing a concrete walkway, volcanic cemented switchbacks and stairs. Once you reach the summit, stop to gaze out over sweeping views of the coast, from Koko Head to Wai’anae, as well as former military installations. After time to recharge, you will begin your descent along the same route, returning to the trailhead and then your ship.
 
* Demanding - Physically challenging activities, including extensive walks, hiking, riding, water sports, and high altitude activities. Activities by foot may contain difficult, unpaved surfaces and/or multiple stairs and steep inclines. Total time walking or standing may exceed 3 hours.

12:45 PM - Honolulu: large monkey pod tree across from Terminal parking lot (this photo makes it seem as tall as the sky scrapers).

At 1:12, we got our first glimpse of Diamond Head, down the road ahead. Then we passed Waikiki Beach.

1:26 PM - Honolulu: view, through bus window, of Waikiki Beach.

1:28 PM - Honolulu: first clear view of Diamond Head, through bus window (telephoto 109 mm).

1:36 PM - Honolulu: view of Diamond Head peak we would climb, through bus window as we entered the parking lot.

1:46 PM - Honolulu: sign for "Diamond Head State Monument" at bottom of trail.

Honolulu: View of Diamond Head from Waikiki Beach, 1958 (By Father of JGKlein, used with permission - Father of JGKlein, used with permission, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10936731).

 
Diamond Head (elevation 762 ft) is a tuff volcanic cone*, part of a system of cones, vents, and their associated eruption flows. It is known to Hawaiians as Lē’ahi, which is most likely derived from lae (browridge, promontory) plus ‘ahi (tuna) because the shape of the ridgeline resembles the shape of a tuna’s dorsal fin. Its English name was given by British sailors in 1825, who called it Diamond Hill because they mistook the sparkling volcanic calcite crystals of the sand on the adjacent beach for diamonds. The name later became Diamond Head, with “head” being shortened from “headland.” The crater, also called Diamond Head Lookout, was used as a strategic military lookout in the early 20th century. In 1968, Diamond Head was declared a National Natural Landmark.

____________

*A volcanic cone is a triangle-shaped hill formed from volcanic eruptions piled up around the volcanic vent, or opening in the Earth’s surface. Most volcanic cones have one volcanic crater, or central depression, at the top. Volcanic cones are of different types, depending on the nature and size of the fragments ejected during the eruption.
A tuff cone, sometimes called an ash cone, is one directly associated with magma brought to the surface through a conduit from a deep-seated magma reservoir. They are characterized by high rims that have a maximum relief of 330-2.600 feet above the crater floor and steep slopes that are greater than 25 degrees. Tuff is a relatively soft, light, porous rock formed by consolidation of volcanic ash ejected from a vent during a volcanic eruption. Following ejection, the ash solidifies into a solid rock.
 

Honolulu: Aerial view of Diamond Head, from east, with Honolulu in background (By Eric Tessmer, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=60176114).

 
The Diamond Head State Monument encompasses over 474 acres, including the interior and slopes of the crater. The trail to the summit was built in 1908 as part of O’ahu’s coastal defense system. The 0.8-mile hike from the trailhead to the summit is steep and strenuous, gaining 560 feet as it ascends from the crater floor. A concrete walkway built to reduce erosion shifts to a natural tuff surface about 0.2 mile up the trail, with many switchbacks traversing the steep slope of the crater interior. The ascent continues up steep stairs and through a lighted 225-ft tunnel to enter the Fire Control Station completed in 1911 to direct artillery fire from batteries in Waikiki and Fort Ruger outside the crater. (The US Coast Guard used the station during the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor.) At the summit are observation bunkers and a view of a huge navigational lighthouse built in 1917.

MT 1:47 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - Don and MT with sign for "Diamond Head State Monument" at bottom of trail.

1:47 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - sign for "Hiking Trail Entry."

1:48 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - sign for "Hike into Crater History"; text at bottom left reads:

"Built by the U.S. Corps of Engineers in 1908, the historic trail climbs up the steep interior face of Lē’ahi crater to Fire Control Station Diamond Head at the summit. With its tunnels, underground command posts, and camouflaging, the fire control station was an engineering marvel of its time. You will walk the same path used by mules and soldiers during its construction and operation.

"The steep, narrow trail consists of many switchbacks, steep stairways, and long tunnels. As you emerge from the Station at the top, a panoramic view of the ocean and the southern coast of O'ahu awaits you."

Caption below photo (from U.S. Army Museum of Hawaii) at bottom right reads:

"This morning the expedition to the summit of Diamond Head came off. ... I don't think you ever climbed one that was built of duct and ashes without  sprig of anything to catch hold of. ... To my mind it was a nightmare.

Anne Winslow, March 21, 1909."

Captions along the trail, from bottom to top, read as follows:

"Bus Stop" (2x)

"Kahala Lookout"

"You entered the crater through the Kahala Tunnel built in 1943."

"Last chance to use the restroom and fill your water bottle."

"You are here (200-foot elevation)" (text in red)

"Numerous switchbacks on the steep interior slope of the crater follow the original 1908 route to the summit."

"The former winch and cable on this platform lifted materials from the crater floor to the trail."

"74 steps lead to a lighted tunnel."

"Narrow tunnel is 225 feet long."

Then, turning to the right, uphill*:

"Steep set of 99 steps take you into the lowest level of the Fire Control Station."

"From the spiral staircase, you exit on the 3rd level of the Fire Control Station."

"54 metal steps lead to the summit (761 feet) where you have a sweeping panoramic view from Waikiki to Koko Head."

Then, across the ridge to the left:

"Loop trail follows the crater rim and a series of 82 metal steps put you on the interior slope."

Then off to the left:

"Enjoy costal views from the lookout on the rim."

Then, back on the downward trail:

"Take a short rest before heading back down through the tunnel."

Then rejoin the first part of the trail, going down.

[*NOTE: On our hike, we actually did the loop trail in the opposite direction, not taking the 99 steps until on our way back down from the Fire Control Station.]

1:55 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - MT and our driver/guide starting up the trail.

1:55 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - our driver/guide (in the shade) on the trail with view of ridge at top.

1:59 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - MT and our driver/guide (in the shade) on the trail with view of ridge at top.

1:59 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - our driver/guide with our group at the first rest stop; Robert (in red Viking shirt) to left of MT; at this point, the trail is still paved.

2:05 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - MT at the first stop; Robert (in red shirt) to left  and driver/guide behind her.

2:18 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - our driver/guide still taking a rest in the shade as another group passed us; view of more mountains in distance.

MT 2:19 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - our driver/guide still taking a rest in the shade, with more of trail in right background.

2:18 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view up the trail, with more hikers going up and down trail ahead of us and other mountains in distance.

2:26 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - winch by trail at lookout; the sign on the other side of the rail behind it reads:

"No  Hiking

"KEEP OUT

"Area Closed to Hiking

"No Public Access"

2:26 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view down into crater, with mountain (Koko Head) on horizon in distance, across water.

At this point, our driver/guide said we could see the island of Molokai on the horizon. However, Don must have been looking in another direction and later confirmed that this photo actually shows Koko Head, another headland of O'ahu, across a bay.

 

Honolulu: Diamond Head - Telephoto view of Koko Head from Diamond Head Trail (By Daniel Ramirez from Honolulu, USA - Diamond Head Hike #3Uploaded by Jacopo Werther, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=25325762).

 
Koko Head is a headland that defines the eastern side of Maunalua Bay along the southeastern side of O’ahu. It is an ancient tuff cone (elevation 642 ft). Its last eruption was 3,000-5,000 years ago.

2:26 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view down into crater, with Koko Head on horizon in distance, across water.

2:26 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view down into crater (more of near rim in foreground), with Koko Head on horizon in distance, across water.

2:27 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view of trail below; other hikers on trail with rails, on which we had just come up; sign on rail near us reads: "Short-cuts cause erosion - Stay on Trail."

2:27 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view across crater to trail below and toward Wai'anae Mountains in distance.

MT 2:28 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view across crater to trail below and toward Koko Head in distance (mild telephoto 49 mm).

2:28 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - trail upward, with increasingly rougher surface; flat Observation Deck on top of Fire Control Station on ridge far above.

2:34 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - Part of our group with driver/guide at lookout; Robert at right; sign on rail behind driver/guide reads:  "No Smoking - Prevent Fires."

MT 2:34 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - MT out on point of lookout, with crater below and Koko Head on horizon.

MT 2:30 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - MT out on point of lookout, with crater below and Koko Head on horizon.

MT 2:32 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - Don at lookout, with crater slope and trail below.

2:36 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - sign for "Changing Role of the Crater for Defense"; text on bottom left corner of photo reads:

"Lē’ahi crater measures about 0.65 mile cross. The summit on the crater rim is about 500 feet above the crater floor."

Text at bottom left of sign reads:

"Lē’ahi or Diamond Head crater has been a strategic location for military coastal defense since the establishment of Fort Ruger in 1906. Early fortifications built between 1908 and 1916 were designed to defend against attack from the sea. By World War II, there was a shift to anti-aircraft defense with expanded facilities in the 1940s. In the 1960s, the Cold War shifted the focus at Fort Ruger to soldier training and readiness.

The following text explains the 6 callouts on the photo (from left to right, except for No. 6 on crater floor):

"1. Birkhimer or Kapahulu Tunnel (1908). This tunnel through the crater wall connected the support structures of Fort Ruger on the outside of the crater with the fortifications inside the crater.

"2. Battery Birkhimer (1916). This underground structure held four 12-inch mortars, Now used by the Hawai'i Emergency Management Agency.

"3. Batteries Hullings and Dodge (1915). These two tunnels through the upper crater wall had mounted guns to counter an attack from the sea.

"4. Kahala Tunnel (1941). This tunnel accommodated the larger equipment used to construct Battery 407.

"5. Battery 407 (1943). Two parallel tunnels designed for anti-aircraft guns that faced out to sea. The battery is now used by the State Department of Defense.

"6. Cold War (1964). Hawai'i Army National Guard built 3 concrete buildings and a pistol range on the crater floor near Battery Birkhimer."

Caption for photo above the latter reads: "Aerial view of the crater in 1964. The Fire Control Station at the summit is marked for reference." (referring to the small white triangle on the rim at the bottom left)

Caption of photo at top right reads: "Buildings [on crater floor?] 1964." (Buildings at left are labeled 303 and 304, and the area at the right is labeled "Pistol Range."

The upper of the two photos below that at top right has caption: "Buildings on the crater floor."(Building at far left is labeled "FAA," and the other three are labeled 301, 303, and 304.) The lower photo has caption: "Building 304, 1964."

Text at right reads:

"The Cold War

"The Cold War was a period of political tension between the United States and the Soviet Union that led to regional conflicts and heightened military readiness. The military installations in Hawai'i were key to the Cold War in the Pacific and Southeast Asia. The islands served as a staging area for the Korean War (1950-1953) and the Vietnam War (1955-1975) with expanded military bases and an increased number of servicemen in Hawai'i.

"To support the Pacific defenses during the Cold War, the Hawai'i Army National Guard (HIARNG) created its own training areas. HIARNG made Fort Ruger its headquarters in 1950 and constructed new buildings and pistol ranges on the crater floor between 1962-1966.

"The first new building in the crater was a blast resistant structure built in 1961 by the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA).

"HIARNG followed in 1962 with the construction of an armory (Building 301), one of 3 armories at Fort Ruger. The front of the T-shaped building housed offices, classrooms, and storge. A large drill hall was located in the back.

"The maintenance shop (Building 304) was built in 1964 to repair vehicles and equipment. Also a T-shaped floor plan, the back portion was divided into multiple work bays.

"Only Administration Building 303 remains. Buildings 301 and 304 were removed in 2018 by HIARNG. The FAA building was demolished in 2000."

Koko Head is visible at top right, past the crater of Diamond Head.

2:36 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view down into crater, with Koko Head on horizon in distance, across Maunalua Bay.

2:38 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view down to tunnel where we entered into the crater (telephoto 130 mm).

2:39 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - just before we turned off to the left, view straight ahead to where we would later exit from another small tunnel, leading out of the Fire Control Station, and come down these 99 yellow metal steps after completing the loop trail to the summit.

NOTE: We completed that loop trail in the opposite direction than depicted on the sign at the trailhead. 

MT 2:39 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view across crater and toward Koko Head.

2:39 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - curving steps we would take on the way up to the summit.

MT 2:42 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view across crater and toward Koko Head.

2:45 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - trail along ridge nearing what our driver/guide called the "crown" (not the summit), with a bunker.

2:51 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - sign for "Diamond Head Crater"; text at top left reads:

"Called a tuff cone and created by a single explosive eruption of steam and ash approximately 150,000 years ago, Diamond Head Crater is an almost perfect circle with a diameter of 3500 feet and a floor area of 175 acres. Diamond Head, also known as Mount Leahi, is 760 feet high at it's peak. In ancient times 5 heiau (places of worship) were located on or around the crater, but none are standing today. The heiau which stood in this area was dedicated to the god of the wind as protection against strong updrafts that could put out the navigational fires of the early Hawaiians.

"From the observation station, with its instruments and plotting rooms, on the second level (below), observers were able to triangulate targets with the observation station on nearby Mount Tantalus. Fire of the 12 inch mortars of Battery Harlow at Fort Ruger, located on the outside, rear slopes of Diamond Head was directed in this way. The heavy guns of Battery Rudolph, located where the popular Army Museum is now at Fort DeRussy in Waikiki, were directed from the third level station. During World War II communications rooms and mess halls were added."

The caption of the cutaway diagram below that text reads: "Fire Control Station Diamond Head, 1910." [This post will show and discuss this diagram later, when we finally got to the Fire Control Station.]

Text below that diagram reads:

"The concrete structure on which you are standing and the observation bunkers below were completed in 1910, prior to World War I, and called Fire Control Station Diamond Head.

"Diamond Head lighthouse, built in 1899, is now a fully automated 60,000 candlepower light which can be seen 17 miles away. It serves as a beacon for ships approaching Honolulu harbor from east and west."

Rays from the compass in the center of the sign point directions to various locations, both near and very far away.

The black star on the map at the right shows the location of "Diamond Head Crater."

MT 2:52 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view of Waikiki Beach, with breakers of surf, near hotels, and Wai'anae Mountains in distance.

2:54 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - MT taking photo of Asian family at lookout.

2:55 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view from lookout down to Diamond Head Lighthouse.

 

Honolulu: Diamond Head - Diamond Head Lighthouse (telephoto) (By hitachiota - Diamond Head LighthouseUploaded by snowmanradio, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=30888512).

 
Diamond Head Lighthouse is a U.S. Coast Guard facility located on Diamond Head, on the southern cliffs of O’ahu. It has safely guided innumerable sailors transiting the Pacific region for over a century. Before navigational structures were built in Hawai’i, large bonfires guided mariners safely ashore, and Diamond Head itself. With the increase of commerce calling at the port of Honolulu, a lookout tower was established in 1878 on the seaward slopes of Diamond Head for spotting and reporting incoming vessels. It served as a landmark guiding the approach to the harbor at Honolulu. Building lighthouses on O’ahu was first planned after two large ships ran aground in 1893 and 1897. Originally built as a 40-foot iron tower in 1899, the first Diamond Head Lighthouse’s concrete base started to crack, so it was rebuilt in 1917. The current concrete-reinforced structure stands 57 feet tall. The U.S. Coast Guard assumed responsibility for maintaining this navigation aid in 1932. The lighthouse is no longer manned, but it was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980.

2:56 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - sign for "Waikiki and Beyond: The View from the Summit"; text just below the word "Summit" reads:

"Waikiki was an important residence for the ali'i (chiefs) of O'ahu with an abundance of ioko i'a (fishponds), lo'i kalo (taro fields), and groves of coconut trees. The large population living along this coastline made Waikiki and Kou (Honolulu) an important cultural center.

"With the arrival of Western explorers, traders, and missionaries in the early 1800s, Honolulu became the business center while Waikiki became a popular retreat for the royal families. They came to enjoy the long white sand beach, surfing, and canoeing."

Caption of oval photo below that reads: "Surfing at Waikiki, ca. 1920s - Hawai'i State Archives"

Caption of photo at top right reads: "Race track and polo field at Waikiki, ca. 1900 - Bishop Museum Archives"

Caption of the photo below that reads: "Moana and Royal Hawaiian Hotels along Waikiki Beach, 1925 - Bishop Museum Archives"

Text at bottom left reads:

"When viewed from Waikiki, the profile of Lē'ahi or Diamond Head crater is one of the most iconic landmarks in Hawai'i. Just as scenic is this view of the coastline of southwestern O'ahu from Waikiki to the Wai'anae Mountains."

Caption of photo below that reads: "View [???] from Puowaina Punchbowl in [1890) - Hawaiian Historical Society"

Rest of text across the bottom is key to callouts in large photo; it reads:

"1. Wai'anae Mountains. This range at the western end of the island is the remnant of the Wai'anae volcano, one of three volcanoes that created the island of O'ahu. At 4,025 feet, Mt. Ka'ala is the highest peak on O'ahu.

"2. Pearl Harbor. Named for the pearl oysters that were once abundant in the inlets and former fishponds. The U.S. Navy dredged the channel for its ships in the 1800s.

"3. Honolulu Harbor. The natural harbor was expanded in the early 1900s with the dredged materials used to build Sand Island. Aloha Tower was built in 1925 and welcomed visitors, immigrants, and military arriving at the harbor."

Caption of top photo to right of that reads: "Waikiki Beach, late 1920s - Hawai'i State Archives"

Caption of lower photo reads: "Camp McKinley, 1898 - U.S. Army Museum"

Text continuing to the right of that reads:

"4. Royal Hawaiian Hotel. Hotels were built as the ponds behind Waikiki beach were filled in. The first was the Moana Hotel built in 1901 and followed by the Royal Hawaiian Hotel (Pink Palace) in 1927.

"5. Waikiki Beach. The name refers to the springs and streams that created the wetlands behind the beach. Waikiki beach now fronts Hawai'i's major resort area.

"6. Kapi'olani Park. These 300 acres were the site of the Army's Camp McKinley from 1898 to 1907. In the 1920s, the site was used as a racetrack and polo field. The park today consists of the Waikiki Shell and bandstand."

Text below photo at bottom right reads:

"7. Hawai'i War Memorial Natatorium. Completed in 1927, it commemorates the veterans of World War I and consists of a 100-meter ocean water swimming pool with an arched entryway."

Based on the key on the sign, the following features visible above the sign in Don's photo are Waikiki Beach, near hotels about halfway around the bay; the Wai'anae Mountains, on horizon across a bay; Pearl Harbor and Honolulu Harbor, on horizon, below mountains; and Kapi'olani Park, in foreground.

2:56 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view of Waikiki Beach, with breakers of surf, near hotels; Wai'anae Mountains, on horizon across a bay; and Kapi'olani Park, in foreground.

MT 2:57 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - MT and Don at lookout with view of Waikiki Beach, with breakers of surf, near hotels; Wai'anae Mountains, on horizon across a bay; and Kapi'olani Park, in foreground.

2:58 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view to right of that, of city of Honolulu and more mountains, with highest peak in clouds.

2:58 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view of city and that peak with top in clouds (telephoto 130 mm).

3:02 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view of coast where fallen rocks made waves break in curves.

3:05 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - MT and others approaching Fire Control Station.

3:05 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - Fire Control Station.

 

2:59 PM (Cropped) - Honolulu: Diamond Head - Fire Control Station (Cropped from Department of Land and Natural Resources sign for "Diamond Head Crater").

Honolulu: Diamond Head - Fire Control Station (from Department of Land & Natural Resources, Hawaii Brochure at https://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/files/2014/09/hsp_dh_brochure_2012.pdf).

 
The Fire Control Station was built into the peak of Diamond Head Crater in 1908-11 as part of the coastal defense system. No guns were ever mounted in the Fire Control Station; it was an observation and command center used to direct fire from gun batteries on the coast. The pedestals seen in the station were for spotting scopes and depression position finders. The station consists of four levels, with each level smaller than the one below it to follow the original contour of the crater rim. (NOTE: The two diagrams, both from the same State of Hawaii department, show differing names for the four levels.)
The first (lowest) level was one of the (Observation) Posts for Fort DeRussy, also known as Secondary O.P Ft. DeRussy or Fire Commander’s Position, and is mainly a long tunnel to the front of the station, with an observation room at the end of it.
The second level was also one of the (Observation) Posts for Fort DeRussy, also known as Secondary Station, Observation Post Battery Randolph, and has a shorter tunnel and another observation room.
The third level was the Observation Post for Battery Harlow (Fort Ruger), also known as First Fire Command or Primary Station, Observation Post Battery Harlow; it is the one through which the current trail passes.
The fourth (highest) level was the Battle Commander’s Position, also known as Groupment Command Post*.

A metal spiral staircase climbs from the first level up to the fourth but is now blocked off at the third level.

__________

*A groupment is a group of military units.

3:08 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - pedestal for spotting scope (our driver/guide said binoculars) in third level of Fire Control Station.

We exited the third level of the Fire Control Station and went down the metal spiral staircase to the lowest level and through a short tunnel to the exit from the Fire Control Station near the top of metal staircase leading back down, after completing the loop trail.

MT 3:16 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view of trail leading back down, with numerous switchbacks and some hikers way down below.

3:14 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view of trail leading back down, with numerous switchbacks, and hikers on narrow trail near top (apparently, Don held his camera out over the railing, but at an angle).

3:14 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - hikers on narrow switchback trail below us.

Half an hour later, we reached the trailhead, where we saw three signs we had not noticed earlier.

3:44 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - sign for "Are you ready for the climb?"; text at top left reads:

"Strenuous and challenging, the hike to the summit is not recommended for anyone with heart problems. This is not a casual stroll in a tree-shaded park.

"Be prepared for the hot sun and a winding trail with steep stairways and dark tunnels. The trail is 1.5 miles (2.2. km) long -- round trip. You will return the same way you go up."

Caption of large photo at right reads:

"Climb up 74 steps as you approach the Fire Control Station. After going through a long dark tunnel and up another 99-step stairway, you enter the first level of the station."

Caption of the smaller photo reads: "Much of the trail is a natural dirt surface. It is narrow and steep with uneven surfaces and loose gravel."

Caption of photo at bottom right reads: "From the summit, you have a commanding view of Waikiki and Honolulu with the Wai'ānae Mountain Range in the distance."

3:46 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - sign for "Creating a Crater"; text at top reads:

"There was an explosive volcanic eruption on the flanks of the Ko'olau Mountains about 300,000 years ago. During this eruption, large amounts of ash and fine particles were sent into the air. As these particles settled around the center of the eruption, a crater was created.

"Diamond Head's highest point (761 feet) is on the seaward rim and reflects the windblown buildup of ash at the time of the eruption. Since their formation, the slopes of the crater have been eroded by rain, wind, and the pounding sea."

The caption of the diagram just below that text reads:

"Cross-section of Diamond Head Crater showing the eruption of magma through the earlier layers of basalt and coral limestone. Later, the erosion of the interior slopes deposited a layer of alluvium on the crater floor." Within the diagram, text at top left and right read "MAUKA (Inland)" and "MAKAI (Seaward)"; the dashed line across the top of the crater reads "Surface prior to erosion"; the two tan high points are labeled "tuff" with the dip between them labeled "alluvium"  and below that "breccia" [meaning a rock consisting of sharp-cornered bits, often of volcanic origin, cemented together by sand, clay, or lime]; the two brown layers are labeled "clay"; the blue-gray area between those is labeled "root limestone"; and the bottom-most layer is labeled "basalt of Ko'olau Volcanic  S[erie?]s."

Text to left of that diagram reads:

"Tuff Cones

"When the ash and fine particles settled, they were cemented into rock called tuff. Thus, Diamond Head is also a tuff cone. Other tuff cones on O'ahu from the same time period include  Pūowaina (Punchbowl) and Koko Head."

Caption of drawing just below that reads: "Major tuff cones of southeastern O'ahu"; at the southeasternmost tip of the  island is "Lē’ahi (Diamond Head)" with "Pūowaina (Punchbowl)" to its left and "Koko Head" to its right.

Text below that drawing reads:

"Tuff is Not So Tough!

"A coral reef now helps protect the seaward slopes of the crater. But intense storms, with heavy rains and runoff, continue to deepen the gullies on the slopes of the crater. An estimated 100 feet have been eroded from the summit.

"The erosion of Diamond Head is hastened by millions of feet that walk through the crater every year. help us slow the erosion by staying on the marked trail."

Text to the right, below the diagram reads:

"Birth of a Volcanic Island

"The creation of O'ahu began around 3 million years ago when two shield volcanoes erupted. The Wai'anae and Ko'olau Mountain Ranges are the very eroded remnants of these volcanoes.

"Much later, about 500,000 years ago, eruptions began along the Ko'olau rift zone. It was during one phase of these eruptions that  the tuff cones of O'ahu were formed. Can future eruptions occur on O'ahu? Geologists say it is possible!"

Caption of photo at bottom right reads:

"The nearly round shape of Diamond Head crater suggests that it was formed during a single, brief volcanic eruption."

3:46 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - sign for "Welcome to Lē’ahi"; text at top left reads:

"Lē’ahi is the Hawaiian name for the crater. If translated as 'brow of the 'ahi fish,' the name reflects the profile of the crater as seen from Waikīkī. Lē’ahi can also mean 'wreath of fire' and refer to the navigational fires lit on the summit to assist canoes travelling offshore.

"In the late 1700s, Western explorers mistook the calcite crystals in the crater for diamonds. Hence, the name Diamond Head."

Text at right reads:

"Hawai'i's Natural Landmark

"Diamond Crater is O'ahu's premier natural landmark. It is recognized around the world as a symbol of Hawai'i. Diamond Head is unique for its geology, natural landscape, military history and scenic views.

"Public Access Area

"You are welcome to visit the park area shown on the map. The other areas are used by Civil Defense, FAA, and Hawai'i National Guard and are restricted. For your safety, stay on designated trail and avoid the restricted areas."

The key at top left of the map shows that bright blue is for "Diamond Head State Monument" and the blue-gray is for "State Park (Public Access Area)." The Public Access Area includes the Parking Lot, Information Center, Trailhead Kiosk, and the hiking trail.

3:53 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - view, through bus windshield, of stoplight at entrance to alternating one-lane tunnel for entering and exiting crater (telephoto 130-mm).

3:54 PM - Honolulu: Diamond Head - relief map of O'ahu circulated on the bus by our driver/guide.

We returned to the Viking Star at 4:40.

4:51 PM - Viking Star: Don's certificate indicating he "hiked to the top of Lē’ahi Summit, Diamond Head State Monument"; text across bottom reads: "Lē’ahi  Crater - 762 ft highest point - 560 ft elevation gain - 327 steps - 1.6 miles round-trip hike to summit."

MT 4:51 PM - Viking Star: MT's certificate indicating she "hiked to the top of Lē’ahi Summit, Diamond Head State Monument"; text across bottom reads: "Lē’ahi  Crater - 762 ft highest point - 560 ft elevation gain - 327 steps - 1.6 miles round-trip hike to summit."

5:03 PM - Viking Star: Don's menu for pre-ordering dinner in The Restaurant for 19 November, with no choices circled but Don used arrow at bottom to point to "more options on the back."  After Don's name at the top is the notice to turn in this menu no later that 9 AM on 19 Nov and the red notice to the kitchen "Allergy & Dietary: Low Sodium, Ginger & Low Fat."

5:03 PM - Viking Star: other side of Don's menu for pre-ordering dinner in The Restaurant for 19 November, with choices circled; Don ordered Avocado & Prawn Salad and Seared Red Snapper from the "Destination Menu" and Pecan Tart for dessert. (Because we pre-ordered meals, the waiter did not normally show us the menu when we sat down to eat. We liked to take photos of our menus before turning them in so we would know what we were being served.)

At 6:45, we went to The Restaurant (Deck 2) for our pre-ordered dinner. Don had octopus soup, from the Destination menu, and butternut squash and monkfish.

MT 6:52 PM - Viking Star: MT's selfie with Executive Chef Joseph Dabassious (partly for the Name Tag Challenge contest but also because he was so helpful with Don's ginger allergy).

All passengers had to be back on board by 10:00 pm, s the Viking Star prepared to set sail for our next stop at Nawiliwili, Kauai (99 nautical miles).