11-26 Nov Vaitape, Bora Bora, French Polynesia

 

This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our cruise in November-December 2023. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.

The Viking Daily newsletter showed today's weather forecast as "Partly Cloudy 80° F" and "Sunrise:5:24 AM.

We both woke around 6 am.

Sunday, November 26, ‎2023, 6:10 AM - Viking Star: First sight of Bora Bora at Sunrise, with ship's bridge in right foreground.

Bora Bora (French: Bora-Bora, Tahitian: Pora Pora) is an island group in the Leeward Islands, which comprise the western part of the Society Islands of French Polynesia, which is an overseas collectivity of the French Republic. The main island, located about 162 miles northwest of the island of Papeete in Tahiti, is surrounded by a lagoon and a fringing barrier reef. In the center of the island are the remnants of an extinct volcano, rising to two peaks, Mount Pahia and Mount Otemanu. Bora Bora is part of the Commune of Bora Bora, which also includes the atoll of Tūpai. Around the main island are several motus (Motu is a Tahitian word meaning “small islands”), which are small, elongated islets made up of coral ruins and sand. Necklace-shaped coral reefs surround the central island and protect it from the open sea like dike. The barrier reef has only one opening to the ocean, located west of the main island, which allows most large cargo ships and cruise ships to enter the lagoon. However, they must stay in the channel, since much of the lagoon is shallow.
The main languages spoken in Bora Bora are Tahitian and French. However, due to tourism, many natives have learned to speak English.
 

Bora Bora map (By modified by Telim tor and Maximilian Dörrbecker (Chumwa) - Own work, based on original from Sardon, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=40154227). Baie means "bay."

 
The major settlement is Viatape, on the western side of the main island, opposite the main channel leading into the lagoon.
In ancient times, the island was called Pora pora mai te pora, meaning “created by the gods” or Pora-Pora Ī Te Fanau Tahi meaning simply “Bora Bora – the first born” in the Tahitian language. This was often abbreviated as Pora Pora, meaning simply “first born.” The Tahitian language does not distinguish between the sounds of p and b, and the sound represented lies between the two. English, French, or Dutch speakers can confuse the Tahitian pronunciation of Pora Pora as Bola Bola or Bora Bora. When the Dutch explorer Jacob Roggeveen (1659-1729) first landed on the island, he and his crew adopted the name Bora Bora, which has stood ever since.
The island was inhabited by Polynesian settlers around the 3rd century AD. The first European sighting was made by Jacob Roggeveen in 1722. British Captain James Cook sighted the island in 1769.
Bora Bora was an independent kingdom until 1888, when the French annexed the island as a colony and forced its last queen to abdicate.

6:12 AM - Viking Star: Mt. Pahia on horizon, with peak in clouds, sun rays through clouds, and ship's bridge in right foreground.

MT 6:14 AM - Viking Star: Mt. Pahia on horizon, with sun rays through clouds (mild telephoto 42 mm).

6:23 AM - Viking Star: small island (motus) and mountains on horizon (panorama).

6:23 AM - Viking Star: small islands (motus) in lagoon, beyond circular reef.

6:25 AM - Viking Star: small island (motu), Mt. Pahia, and smaller mountains on horizon (panorama).

6:26 AM - Viking Star: small island (motu) with small house and gazebo with thatched roofs (telephoto 93 mm).

6:26 AM (Cropped) - Viking Star: small island (motu) with small house and gazebo with thatched roofs (telephoto 93 mm).

6:33 AM  - Viking Star: view of Mount Pahia (mild telephoto 58 mm).

6:33 AM (VIDEO) - Viking Star: view of motus and Mount Pahia, with bridge of Viking Star at far right.

6:33 AM (VIDEO) - Viking Star: port of Vaitape and Mount Pahia, with bridge of Viking Star at far right.

 

Mount Pahia with Vaitape at its base (By Balou46 - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=66782244).

 
The name of Mount Pahia comes from the original Tahitian name ‘pai’h’a, meaning “what has been hit”; it is a reference to the legend that the mountain’s shape was formed by a massive hit from the Polynesian god Marama, associated with the moon and light, in a moment of great rage. Mount Pahia is an extinct volcano formed by two peaks. The city of Vaitape sits at the base of the mountain, which is in the center of the island next to its big brother Mount Otemanu.

MT 6:45 AM  - Viking Star: view of Mount Pahia with Vaitape in foreground (mild telephoto 38 mm).

Vaitape (pop. 4,027) is a village on the west side of the main island, which is home to a large part of the island’s population (10,605) and has become a popular spot for tourism. It has a view of the western part of the lagoon and the islets marking the end of the lagoon. It also has a view of Mount Otemanu. Mount Pahia is another mountain close by. The main language of the village in French, although 20 percent of the population speaks Tahitian.
The name Vaitape means “the place where bodies are taken at maturity”; it is a reference to the fact that, in ancient times, it was here that deceased persons of distinction were embalmed for their voyage to Rohutu No’ana’a (Polynesian heaven).
The first British missionary arrived here in 1820, where he lived until 1824. A carpenter, he built a large church, various roads, and several habitable constructions. In doing so, he laid the basis for what today is the village of Vaitape.

MT 6:42 AM  - Viking Star: view of red-roofed Protestant Temple in Vaitape (telephoto 125 mm).

The Protestant Temple is arguably Vaitape’s most imposing structure, with its red steeple soaring into the sky directly below Mount Pahia.

6:44 AM  - Viking Star: view, from our balcony, of port side of ship with lifeboats and stowed tender (telephoto 79 mm).

At 6:50, Room Service Breakfast arrived (ordered for 7:00-7:15).

MT 6:52 AM  - Viking Star: view, from our balcony, of a tender heading for Vaitape, with Mont Pahia in background (mild telephoto 45 mm).

7:03 AM  - Viking Star: view, from our balcony, of two tenders passing each other.

7:03 AM  - Viking Star: view, from our balcony, of port side of ship with empty lines for lowering tender (telephoto 79 mm).

7:04 AM  - Viking Star: Don's room service breakfast, with MT's on far side of table, on our balcony.

Then, we watched a Mass from a Canadian web site on our laptop.

The map of Bora Bora (from the Tahiti Tourisme office), which Viking provided to use for our shore excursions there, could not be used in this blog due to copyright,

However, on November 25, when the captain announced the extra stop in Raiatea, had prompted MT to search for Raiatea on her iPhone, which got us maps from Wikipedia of Bora Bora, as well as the whole Society Islands archipelago.

MT November 25 - Viking Star:  Wikipedia page with top figure captioned: "The Island of Bora Bora (top) Tahaa (middle) and Raiatea (bottom). Tahaa and Raiatea shame the same lagoon." The bottom figure shows a map of the "Fenua Sociétés" (Society Islands) with Raiatea just southeast of Bora Bora and far to the northwest of Moorea. (Both figures are from the Wikipedia entry for Society Islands.)

The Society Islands (French: Iles de la Société) are an archipelago in the South Pacific that includes the major islands of Tahiti, Moorea, Raiatea, Bora Bora, and Huahine. Politically, they are part of French Polynesia. The archipelago is believed to have been named by Captain James Cook in honor of the Royal Society of London, the sponsor of his first British scientific exploration of the islands in 1769. However, Cook wrote in his journal that he called the islands “Society” because they lay contiguous to one another.
They are also known as Fenua Sociétés in Tahitian, the primary language spoken in the archipelago, with fenua meaning “island[s]”in Tahitian.

MT 9:22 AM  - Viking Star: MT's copy of Viking Daily newsletter, in which she had highlighted the shore excursions "Bora Bora Cruise (included)" we would both take at meeting time 10:15 and the optional "Sail Bora Bora by Catamaran" he would take at meeting time listed as 2:00, but she had written in 1:30 because of the note highlighted above saying to "proceed ashore on a tender boat at least 30 minutes prior to your set meeting time ashore"; she did not highlight, but only checkmarked, the optional shore excursion "4x4 Back Road Adventure" Don would take in the afternoon, taking the tender around 1:45 for an on shore meeting time of 2:15.

At 10:00, we went to the Theater (Deck 2) meeting place for the shore excursion "Bora Bora Cruise" (included). From there. we boarded the tender that would take us "Shore Side" to the meeting place next to the Tender Station in Vaitape.

The My Viking Journey web site described the 1-hour shore excursion "Bora Bora Cruise" as follows:

Bora Bora Cruise
INCLUDED
Day 17 – Bora Bora (Vaitape), French Polynesia
Sunday, November 26
9:00 AM / 10:45 AM / 12:30 PM / 2:15 PM / 4:00 PM
1 Hour
EASY
SIGHTSEEING

Stunning Scenery of Island Paradise
Cruise through the crystal clear waters of Bora Bora—an enchanting island paradise.
Board your motorboat and set sail across the turquoise lagoon. As you sit back and relax, take time to admire the breathtaking views of Mt. Otemanu, its rocky green summit towering over you as you glide by. The island’s scenery is considered by many to be some of the most stunning in the South Pacific. Many works by French artist Paul Gauguin were inspired by the island’s beauty. The lagoon is home to a wealth of colorful tropical fish. As you cruise, keep your eyes peeled for sea turtles or sting rays, which are often sighted around visiting boats. Pass by small reef islets and water bungalows. A sight synonymous with Bora Bora, the water bungalows stand on stilts over the ocean, providing occupants with the experience of being at one with nature.

8:29 AM  - Viking Star: Don's ticket for "Bora Bora Cruise."

10:35 AM  - Vaitape: local band playing on dock, with sign for "Bora-Bora Ī Te Fanau Tahi - Artisant" (Bora Bora The Only Begotten - Artisan) shop.

10:35 AM (VIDEO) - Vaitape: local band playing on dock, with sign for "Bora-Bora Ī Te Fanau Tahi - Artisant" (Bora Bora The Only Begotten - Artisan) shop.

10:37 AM  - Vaitape: Viking Star, at anchorage, and 2  blue-and-white boats like ours for this excursion at another dock, with part of tender at dock in foreground.

MT 10:40 AM  - Vaitape: Don and MT with Manu, our pilot/guide for the cruise, at dock.

The name Manu is of Tahitian origin, meaning "bird" but also possibly "greatest" or "wise."

10:41 AM  - Vaitape: our pilot/guide Manu on dock and other passengers ready for cruise.

10:42 AM  - Vaitape: another boat like ours, with tender still by artisan shop in background and Mount Pahia in distance.

10:43 AM  - Vaitape: Mount Pahia beyond dock (mild telephoto 42 mm).

MT 10:45 AM  - Vaitape: our pilot/guide Manu with part of Mount Pahia.

MT 10:49 AM  - Vaitape: part of Mount Otemanu behind Mount Pahia.

10:52 AM  - Vaitape: our pilot/guide Manu with part of Mount Otemanu behind Mount Pahia.

MT 10:55 AM  - Vaitape: view back to Viking Star, anchored in lagoon (telephoto 71 mm).

10:58 AM  (Cropped) - Vaitape: Manu pointing out Tiki hut on shore.

11:00 AM  - Vaitape: clear view of Mont Otemanu.

 

Mount Otemanu from Faanui Bay (By Makemake, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=4893532).

 
Mount Otemanu (elevation 2,385 ft above sea level) is the highest mountain on Bora Bora. It is a jagged remnant of an extinct volcano. The reef that surrounds the island and separates the lagoon from the open sea may be the remains of the caldera, or crater, of the volcano. Mount Otemanu serves as a major tourist attraction for both hiking and picture- taking. The island is centered around its peak, although there are no major settlements or inhabitants on it. It can be seen from everywhere in Bora Bora. Its name means “the peak which sucks up living things,” but there is no history of how the mountain got that name. It is next to the smaller Mount Pahia.
 

Mount Otemanu from lagoon (By Athos33320 - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=81025278,Cropped).

 

MT 11:00-03 AM  - Vaitape: Manu entertaining us, singing with his ukulele  (VIDEO).

11:02 AM  - Vaitape: white sand beach and remains of old hotel (mild telephoto 68 mm).

11:03 AM  - Vaitape: remains of old hotel on white sand beach (telephoto 130 mm).

11:04 AM  - Vaitape: Manu with white sand beach and Mount Otemanu on shore.

11:06 AM  - Vaitape: Manu said we could see Raiatea on the left and Taha'a in the distance.

11:06 AM  - Vaitape: Hilton's Conrad Bora Bora Nui resort with over-water bungalows and hillside villas on Motu To'opua island.

Several resorts have been built on the motu surrounding the lagoon. Hotel Bora Bora opened in 1961, and nine years later the first over-water bungalows on stilts over the lagoon were built. Today, over-water bungalows are a standard feature of most Bora Bora resorts. The bungalows range from relatively inexpensive basic accommodations to luxurious and expensive ones.
One of them is Hilton’s Conrad Bora Bora Nui, which is nestled in a private cove with a white sand beach on Motu To’opua islet (but its address is Vaitape).
Early settlers from Polynesia built grass huts and hunted fish with spears and sticks.
First invented on the island of Raiatea in 1967, the over-water bungalow concept has transformed over the years, expanding from French Polynesia and becoming an ever-evolving, worldwide phenomenon. The concept of staying not just in a hotel on the beach but literally on the water continues to enchant and dazzle travelers.

MT 11:17 AM  - Vaitape: Hilton's Conrad Bora Bora Nui resort with over-water bungalows on Motu To'opua island, with top of Mount Otemanu barely visible over it (mild telephoto 56 mm).

MT 11:17 AM  - Vaitape: Hilton's Conrad Bora Bora Nui resort with over-water bungalows and hillside villas on Motu To'opua island, with clear view of Mount Otemanu (telephoto 99 mm).

11:18 AM  - Vaitape: Conrad Bora Bora Nui - over-water bungalows, with Mount Otemanu in distance, behind Moto To'opua; Manu said the larger bungalows cost $12K to 15K per night.

11:19 AM  - Vaitape: Conrad Bora Bora Nui - over-water bungalows and Mount Otemanu in distance, behind Moto To'opua.

11:20 AM  - Vaitape: Conrad Bora Bora Nui - more over-water bungalows, with larger bungalows at right (mild telephoto 79 mm).

MT 11:20 AM  - Vaitape: Conrad Bora Bora Nui - close up of  larger bungalows (telephoto 118 mm).

11:22 AM  - Vaitape: looking back at Mont Otemanu from near Conrad Bora Bora Nui.

MT 11:24 AM  - Vaitape: looking back at Mont Otemanu from near Conrad Bora Bora Nui, with another cruise boat like ours passing (mild telephoto 40 mm).

MT 11:22 AM  - Vaitape: another cruise boat like ours passing (telephoto 62 mm).

11:22 AM  - Vaitape: first sighting of sharks in lagoon, with another cruise boat like ours approaching.

 

Black tip reef shark at Bora Bora (By Duncan Rawlinson from Vancouver, BC - [1], CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6524761).

 

The lagoon is inhabited by several species of sharks and rays. The species of shark are not considered dangerous to people.
The blacktip reef shark (Carcharhinus melanopterus) can be easily identified by the prominent black tips on its fins, especially on its first dorsal fin (on its back) and its caudal fin (on its tail). It is among the most abundant sharks inhabiting the tropical coral reefs of the Indian and Pacific Oceans. It typically attains a length of 5.2 ft.

Manu stopped our boat for a while to see sharks and rays.

11:22 AM  - Vaitape: blacktip reef shark, near rear of boat.

Then, another boat like ours, piloted by Manu's brother Coco, came alongside ours, and the two were lashed together while the brothers both entertained us, singing with ukuleles.

11:30 AM  - Vaitape: Manu and Coco singing with ukuleles.

Then MT took a series of videos of this performance, since Blogger would not accept those with larger files.

MT 11:30 AM  - Vaitape: Manu and Coco singing with ukuleles (VIDEO).

11:30 AM  - Vaitape: Manu and Coco singing with ukuleles (VIDEO).

MT 11:30 AM  - Vaitape: Manu and Coco singing with ukuleles (VIDEO).

MT 11:30 AM  - Vaitape: Manu and Coco singing with ukuleles (VIDEO).

MT 11:30 AM  - Vaitape: Manu and Coco singing with ukuleles (VIDEO).

MT 11:30 AM  - Vaitape: Manu and Coco singing with ukuleles (VIDEO).

11:32 AM  - Vaitape: another shark, with ray approaching from right.

11:32 AM  - Vaitape: ray near rear of boat.

MT 11:42 AM  - Vaitape: Manu standing on front of our boat after unlashing us from Coco's boat (mild telephoto 55 mm).

MT 11:46 AM  - Vaitape: Manu having shed his outer "skirt" for a briefer undergarment.

MT 11:46 AM  - Vaitape: Manu posing with his briefer undergarment and tattoo.

11:47 AM  - Vaitape: heading back toward Mount Pahia.

11:48 AM  - Vaitape: almost back to Viking Star, anchored offshore.

MT 11:49 AM  - Vaitape: Viking Star, with tender alongside (telephoto 75 mm).

11:49 AM  - Vaitape: Viking Star, with tender alongside (telephoto 93 mm).

11:54 AM  - Vaitape: tender in harbor by artisan shop.

MT 11:55 AM  - Vaitape: Don at tender dock with sign for "Bora Bora - navettes".

The French term  navette means a tender or shuttle boat.

12:02 PM  - Vaitape: tender pilot.

12:23 PM  - Vaitape: another tender heading toward Vaitape and Mount Pahia.

We arrived back on the Viking Star around 12:30, and we went to Mamsen's (Deck 7) for soup and sandwich lunch. Don had split pea soup and "Traditional Norwegian Hot Dog on Flatbread." MT had different soup and roast beef sandwich.

At 1:30, MT went to the tender for the ride to the "Shore Side" meeting place near the Tender Station for the (optional) shore excursion "Sail Bora Bora by Catamaran."

The My Viking Journey web site described the (optional) shore excursion “Sail Bora Bora by Catamaran” as follows:
$129 Per Person
Day 17 – Bora Bora (Vaitape), French Polynesia
Sunday, November 26
9:30 AM / 2:00 PM
3 Hours
MODERATE
SPECIAL INTEREST
NATURAL WORLD
 
Cruise, Swim and Snorkel in Turquoise Waters
 
Set sail on a deluxe catamaran cruise across Bora Bora’s lagoon.
 
Board your vessel and meet your crew as they prepare the sails. Relax as you feel the cooling sea breeze blowing through your hair. Feast your eyes on the stunning scenery around you. Marvel at breathtaking Mt. Otemanu and its rocky green summit towering over you as you glide by. Pass reef islets and picture-postcard water bungalows on stilts—synonymous with Bora Bora. Your crew will stop and anchor, allowing you to take a swim in the lagoon’s crystalline waters. Snorkeling equipment is available on board should you wish to explore the abundance of marine life. Swim with rainbow-hued tropical fish and keep watch for blacktip reef sharks, manta rays or perhaps a friendly gray ray. Climb back on board and relax with a chilled refreshment as you head to your awaiting ship.

2:26 PM - MT Bora Bora: Catamaran - view of lagoon.

2:30 PM - MT Bora Bora: Catamaran - view, across lagoon, of  twin peaks of Mount Pahia, with  Mount Otemanu behind it.

MT Bora Bora: Catamaran -  crew singing with ukuleles (VIDEO).

4:26 PM - MT Bora Bora: Catamaran - natives in kayaks with outriggers.

The highlight of this excursion was supposed to be the snorkeling, which the My Viking Journey web site described as follows: "Your crew will stop and anchor, allowing you to take a swim in the lagoon’s crystalline waters. Snorkeling equipment is available on board should you wish to explore the abundance of marine life. Swim with rainbow-hued tropical fish and keep watch for blacktip reef sharks, manta rays or perhaps a friendly gray ray." At the Port Talk the shore excursion manager Robert had explained that the "snorkeling equipment" did not include a life vest. However, MT quickly discovered she had a faulty snorkeling mask, when the breathing tube fell off and disappeared under water. So she never got a chance to see all the sea life. This experience caused her to cancel two other snorkeling excursions she had scheduled later in the cruise and replace them with something else.

At 1:45, Don was supposed to go to the tender for the ride to the "Shore Side" meeting place near the Tender Station for the (optional) shore excursion "4x4 Back Road Adventure."  However, he took the tender at 1:15, along with MT.

The My Viking Daily web site described the (optional) shore excursion “4x4 Back Road Adventure” as follows:
 
4x4 Back Road Adventure
Duration: 3 hours 30 minutes
Sightseeing Moderate
 
Discover Bora Bora, Beyond the Beaches
 
Travel via 4x4 vehicle, with the top down, exploring back roads to discover Bora Bora from a different perspective. As the guest of a professional, local guide, you will have the opportunity to circle the entire island of Bora Bora in an open air vehicle. This unique tour will give you access to sights and viewpoints that can only be accessed by exploring the island’s back roads. Stop along the way to view World War II cannons and spectacular panoramic views. Climb the steep incline of one of the island’s mountains, admiring the lush hills and abundant flora. Once you reach the top, soak up the panoramic ocean vistas, with sparkling shades of blue stretching as far as the eye can see. On this off-the-beaten-path adventure, you will discover that there is more to learn and love about Bora Bora than just its magnificent beaches and famous lagoon.

Since the meeting time for this excursion was 2:15, Don had a little time ashore before that.

1:33 PM  - Vaitape: harbor and Mount Pahia.

Still with time to spare, Don went to look at the nearby Protestant Temple we had seen at a distance.

1:35 PM  - Vaitape: Protestant Temple and Mount Pahia.

1:36 PM  - Vaitape: sign for "Eglise Evangelique de Polynesis Francais - Temple Ezera de Vaitape.

Église évangelique de Polynèsie Français (Protestant Church of French Polynesia)- Temple Ebene Ezera de Vaitape (a place of worship in Vaitape [ebene is French for “level,” and Ezera is French for the Biblical prophet Ezra, who played an important role in the rebuilding of the Temple in Jerusalem, on the Temple Mount, after the Babylonian Exile; so Temple Ebene could refer to “Temple Mount”]).
The Protestant Church along the main road (Circle Island Road) is arguably Vaitape’s most imposing structure with its distinctive pink color and its red steeple reaching high into the skies directly below Mount Pahia.

2:17 PM  - Vaitape: view from our 4x4 to the next one near the harbor; sign on vehicle door reads "Bora Bora - Tupuna Safari.

Tupuna Safari, founded in 1992, was the first 4x4 jeep company in Bora Bora. In approximately 3 and a half hours, it would cover all the road that was built by the American troops in World War II and that frames the island, as well as the back roads to reach the most amazing panoramic viewpoints of the island, including the Hyatt & Faanui viewpoint, Mount Popoti (with a 360-degree view, to which the company has exclusive access), and Antenna viewpoint. It is a rugged ride that is only possible in a 4x4.

2:25 PM  - Bora Bora: view, through windshield of our 4x4, up bumpy road ahead with another Tupuna Safari 4x4 ahead.

2:25 PM  (VIDEO) - Bora Bora: view, through windshield of our 4x4, up bumpy road ahead with another Tupuna Safari 4x4 ahead.

2:27 PM  - Bora Bora: first view, through side window of our 4x4, of coast below and Mount Pahia at right, above Vaitape.

2:29 PM  - Bora Bora: better view, at first stop, of coast below and Mount Pahia at right, above Vaitape.

2:30 PM  - Bora Bora: wider view, at first stop, of coast below and Mount Pahia at right, above Vaitape, with peak of Mount Otemanu at far right behind it (panorama).

2:30 PM  - Bora Bora: view, at first stop, of coast below, with nearby islands of Raiatea, right of center  on horizon, and possibly Tahaa and ,  with smaller motu islets in lagoon in foreground.

2:31 PM  - Bora Bora: view, at first stop, of coast below, with nearby islands of Raiatea, at right, and possibly Tahaa and Tupai,  on horizon,  with smaller motu islets in lagoon in foreground.

2:55 PM  - Bora Bora: view, through windshield of 4x4, as we got back onto paved road (Circle Island Road) along the coast.

The Circle Island Road is a 32-km (20-mi) road that winds around the fairly flat perimeter of the island of Bora Bora and is mostly paved. This is the only main road.

2:58 PM  - Bora Bora: view, through window of 4x4, of white sand beach (later determined to be Matira Beach).

3:01 PM  - Bora Bora: Matira Beach - view, to the left from our next stop, of people on white sand beach.

Matira Beach is the only public beach on the island. It has 1.5 km (2 mi) of white sand beach stretching from the east side of Hotel Bora Bora to Matira Point, on the southern tip of the island. To each side of it, there are more long strips of privately owned beaches. It is one of the most popular attractions on the Circle Island Road.

3:01 PM  - Bora Bora: Matira Beach - view, to the right, of people on white sand beach.

3:04 PM - Bora Bora: Matira Beach - sign for "Pavillon Bleu - Bora Bora," with information in French and English, at top left, about Environmental Education, Environmental Management, Waste Management, and Water Quality; in upper center, about Code of Good Conduct and Water Quality; and Fauna and Flora at bottom right, with the admonition, only in English saying "It's strictly forbidden to collet coral or shells." The small white rectangle at the bottom center shows "Snack Matira," which was the key to finding that this was Matira Beach; the aerial view of the beach at at bottom left (just to the left of that white box) shows the Snack Matira restaurant on the beach and the Le Moana Intercontinental Bora Bora resort across the road from the beach.

After Bora Bora implemented a series of measures to make the island a pilot site in terms of sustainable development. These efforts have been rewarded by the prestigious European Pavillon Bleu (Blue Flag) label. Bora Bora is the only commune in the Pacific to receive this distinction.
The pavillonbleu.org page for Bora Bora lists 10 labeled beaches, including “Snack Matira beach” and “Matira public beach – Intercontinental Moana Beach Hotel beach.” Instagram for Snack Matira has a map showing it on the extreme south point (Matira Point) of Bora Bora, 8 km south of Vaitape. Le Moana Intercontinental Bora Bora resort is just across the road from Matira Beach.
The web site tahititourisme.com says “Snack Matira is an authentic Polynesian restaurant on Matira beach.”

3:16 PM  - Bora Bora: view from bus window, back on the paved road again after Matira Beach, but no more white sand beach.

3:18 PM  - Bora Bora: view from bus window, of standing water on uphill side of road.

3:20 PM  - Bora Bora:  Anau - view from bus window, of colorfully painted building, with church in background.

3:20 PM   (Cropped) - Bora Bora:  Anau - Maohi Protestant Church (identified from the net photo), behind colorfully painted building.

Bora Bora: Maohi Protestant Church in Anau (By Sergio Calleja at https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Maohi_Protestant_Church_on_Anau,_Bora_Bora.jpg ).

The Maohi Protestant Church (French: Eglise Protestante Maohi) in the small town of Anau, on the east coast of Bora Bora.

 

3:20 PM - Bora Bora:  black sand beach with over-water bungalows of resorts on small islands (motus) forming part of reef on other side of  lagoon from Anau.

3:35 PM - Bora Bora:  view, through 4x4 windshield, of another back road leading uphill ahead.

3:35 PM  (VIDEO) - Bora Bora:  view, through 4x4 windshield, of bumpy back road leading uphill ahead.

3:37 PM - Bora Bora:  our driver looking at his cell phone while driving on rough back road with curves.

3:46 PM - Bora Bora:  motus on reef bordering lagoon (panorama).

3:46 PM - Bora Bora: motus on reef bordering lagoon.

3:46 PM - Bora Bora:  more motus, to the right, on reef bordering lagoon.

3:57 PM - Bora Bora:  plant with sticky green fruit.

3:58 PM - Bora Bora:  driver of other 4x4 holding sticky green fruit (telephoto 130 mm).

4:01 PM - Bora Bora:  dirt road ahead (divided highway?) with  passenger hanging on; windshield folded down and 4x4 roof retracted for better view.

4:09 PM - Bora Bora:  view, across lagoon, of peak of Mount Otemanu.

4:14 PM - Bora Bora:  dirt road ahead (now with just two tracks for 4x4 wheels) leading up to World War II guns.

The Tupuna Safari would take us to large coastal defense guns and munition bunkers that were left behind when the US Marines were withdrawn after World War II. During the war, four pairs of large 7-inch/44-caliber guns had been hauled up steep slopes in pieces and reassembled at strategic heights around the island to protect the island against a potential military attack from the sea. The guns were manufactured in 1907, for the US Navy; they were remnants from World War I. Fortunately, none of the guns on Bora Bora were ever used, since US forces only used the island as a supply base in World War II, and it saw no combat. All eight of these coastal defense guns remain in the area to this day.
Two pairs of cannons can be reached by 4x4, and another pair requires a long walk. The fourth pair, set in deep rainforest jungle high on the mountainside, are extremely hard to locate and involve a strenuous climb.
One of the sites reachable by 4x4 is the one at Point Tereia, on the northwest corner of the main island. However, the barrel of the first cannon you reach after a 3-minute hike is missing. The second cannon, higher up, is intact. The missing barrel is now located at Galerie D’art Alain & Linda near Matira. These are sometimes referred to as WWII Guns Faanui.

4:19 PM - Bora Bora:  Point Tereia - World War II gun missing barrel.

4:19 PM - Bora Bora:  Point Tereia - other side of World War II gun missing barrel, with 4x4 and part of our group in background.

4:21 PM - Bora Bora:  Point Tereia - view from there up to intact World War II gun, with other 4x4 in background and part of our group.

4:22 PM - Bora Bora:  Point Tereia - view from there up to intact World War II gun, with part of our group in background.

4:22 PM - Bora Bora:  Point Tereia - view from intact World War II gun toward nearby motus, with part of our group.

4:40 PM - Bora Bora:  Point Tereia - view toward nearby over-water bungalows on motus (telephoto 109 mm).

4:42 PM - Bora Bora:  4x4 on rough, curvy road back down from Point Tereia toward small village on coast.

4:43 PM - Bora Bora:  4x4 on rough road, with some broken pavement, back down from Point Tereia toward small village on coast. with motus across lagoon.

4:43 PM - Bora Bora:  4x4 on rough, bumpy road back down from Point Tereia toward small village on coast; lady in front seat hanging on to door frame.

4:45 PM - Bora Bora:  back on main road on coast, passing through small village, with Mount Otemanu in distance.

4:45 PM - Bora Bora:  back on main road on coast, with clearer view of Mount Otemanu in distance.

Then we stopped at a roadside shop, which was not mentioned in Viking's summary of this excursion but seemed to be a regular stop on the 4x4 tour.

4:46 PM - Bora Bora:  roadside shop on main road on coast, where our 4x4 stopped.

4:46 PM - Bora Bora:  roadside shop - items for sale.

4:47 PM - Bora Bora:  roadside shop - items for sale, with names of all the islands we would visit in French Polynesia at the bottom, plus Rangiroa (a large atoll that is also in French Polynesia) at top left.

4:52 PM - Bora Bora:  our 4x4 parked at roadside shop.

4:56 PM - Bora Bora:  other 4x4 parked at roadside shop, with Mount Otemanu, across Faanui Bay, in background.

5:16 PM - Bora Bora: Faanui Bay Village - view, from 4x4, of Protestant church, with Mount Otemanu in background.

Faanui Bay is located on the northwest coast of Bora Bora, about 5 km (3 mi) north of Vaitape. Perched at the head of the bay along the Circe Island Road is Faanui Bay Village. Its pastel pink, mint, and white Protestant church stands graciously in the shadow of Mount Otemanu. It was bult in the 1800s and still has a thriving congregation today. Bora Bora is 88% Protestant.

5:16 PM - Bora Bora: Faanui Bay Village - view, from 4x4, of Protestant church, with Mount Otemanu in background.

5:23 PM - Bora Bora: view, from 4x4, of Mount Pahia in distance.

5:26 PM - Bora Bora: Vaitape - view, from 4x4, of Protestant church on main road with Mount Pahia in background; sign above door reads "EBENE-EZERA."

Don returned to the Viking Star at 5:45.

5:55 PM - Bora Bora: Vaitape - view, from Viking Star, of town with Protestant church on main road with Mount Pahia in background.

5:55 PM - Bora Bora: Vaitape - view, from Viking Star, of town with Protestant church on main road (telephoto 130 mm).

At 6:30, we went to The Restaurant (Deck 2) for our pre-ordered dinner (see menu at end of post for November 25).

At 9:00, we went to the Theater (Deck 2) for the "Destination Performance - Here Ori Folkloric Troop" for a delightful experience of the culture and history of Bora Bora.

Here Ori Folkloric Troop:
In the Tahitian language, the word here means “chain,” and ori means “dance.” So here ori (or ori here) translates as “chain dance.”

Ori Tahiti (Tahitian Dance) refers to the dances of Tahiti, which are sometimes soft and slow and sometimes breathtakingly fast. They feature soft and sensual movements, breathtakingly fast hip circles, colorful costumes, exotic music, a smile on the lips, and the beauty of the Polynesian women.
Ori Tahiti is a central part of Polynesian culture and is deeply rooted in ancient traditions. The dance is a direct link between the Tahitian language and choreography and was originally an art movement of a civilization that relied on oral tradition, The dance is used to communicate identity and cultural heritage and was used for a variety of purposes, including worshiping gods, challenging enemies, enthralling lovers. or celebrating important events such as weddings, births, and abundant harvests.
The Ori Tahiti was in danger of disappearing altogether when the Christian missionaries came to Tahiti. The sensuality of the rhythmic dancing and accompanying to’ere drums was too much for their delicate dispositions; so they banned it. Fortunately, the ban wasn’t respected by everybody, and the tradition was passed from generation to generation in secret. Today, Tahitian dance has recovered its true place as a fundamental part of Polynesian culture, alongside the rhythm of the to’ere drums.
Tahitian dance is profoundly anchored in the culture and traditions. It is more than just a performance; it is an art form and a powerful means of expression, used to convey emotions, tell stories, and transmit traditions from one generation to the next.
The Ori Tajhiti tradition originated in Tahiti, but also spread to other Polynesian islands (including Bora Bora). However, it is not to be confused with Hula, which developed in Hawaii and due to the great distance from other Polynesian islands went through an independent development. Both dance styles are Polynesian, but each is distinct. Hula dance typically employs arm movements for symbolism, whereas Tahitian dance employs more hip movements for story-telling; the upper body remains more fluid, and the head rarely moves.
The Tahitian dance is performed with male drummers. If a woman in Polynesian society (past or present) chose to drum, it would be seen as shameful. However, the dancers can be male or female. The dancers are youthful, usually between the ages of 15 and 20, because the dancing is supposed to symbolize the beauty and strength of the youth. The average age of the drummers is much older.

MT 8:57 PM - Viking Star: Here Ori Folkloric Troop - musicians who would accompany dancers with drums and, in this case, a ukulele.

 

Tahitian drumming is a style of drumming native to Tahiti and French Polynesia. Tahitian drumming and dance have become symbols of Polynesian heiva to the western world. Heiva is the Tahitian term for entertainment. The drums people play have a hierarchy system:
Drummers start on a large bass drum called tariparau (sometimes pahu). It has two membranes traditionally made out of sharkskin and is struck with single mallet. It provides the basic pulse for the rhythm. Very few females could play the large tariparau drum.
The second drum in the rank is the fa’atete drum. Its single membrane can be struck with hands or drumsticks. It is usually made out of coconut tree wood with sharkskin stretched across with intricate carving of flowers, sea turtles, leaves, and designs on the bottom. It plays a slightly more complex texture than the tariparau. It has a high tom sound with less resonation.
The last main drum, the to’ere (or pate), is the most challenging to play and is one of the min sounds associated with Tahitian dance. The to’ere is a hollowed-out log, usually from milo, kamani or kou wood (all tree native to Tahiti). The instrument is anywhere from 2 to 6 feet long (usually around 3 to 4), with a slit down the side. It is played with a cone-shaped stick also made of wood. Depending on where the instrument is struck, the sound will change. Like the tariparau, it also has carvings. The timbre is a hollow sound with higher pitches and moderate resonation.

MT 9:00 PM - Viking Star: Here Ori Folkloric Troop - older woman (troop manager) introducing the performance, with musicians who would accompany dancers (still photo from MT's MOV Video).

MT Viking Star: Here Ori Folkloric Troop -male and female dancers coming up into aisles.

Viking Star: Here Ori Folkloric Troop - male and female dancers, with rapidly rotating hips of women and scissors movement of men's legs (ote'a).

Viking Star: Here Ori Folkloric Troop - male and female dancers, with rapidly rotating hips of women and scissors movement of men's legs (ote'a).

MT Viking Star: Here Ori Folkloric Troop - male and female dancers, with rapidly rotating hips of women and scissors movement of men's legs (ote'a).

MT Viking Star: Here Ori Folkloric Troop - female dancers.

MT Viking Star: Here Ori Folkloric Troop - female dancers in long black costumes, in slow dance with arm movement.

MT Viking Star: Here Ori Folkloric Troop - female dancers in long black costumes, in slow dance with arm movement.

Viking Star: Here Ori Folkloric Troop - male dancers, with scissors movement of men's legs.

MT Viking Star: Here Ori Folkloric Troop - male dancers, with scissors movement of men's legs.

The Viking Daily newsletter said the last tender would be at 10:00 pm, as the Viking Star prepared to set sail for Raiatea (90 nautical miles).