This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our cruise in November-December 2023. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.
The Viking Daily newsletter showed today's weather forecast as "Chance of rain 79° F" and "Sunrise: 6:51 AM."
Later, Cruise Director Katy announced on loud speaker that there was a 40 % chance of rain and that we should take umbrellas (supplied by Viking) on shore excursions.
We woke at 6:30 am.
Sunday, November 19, 2023, 7:04 AM - Kauai: first sight of land, with bridge of Viking Star at far right (mild telephoto 42 mm).
Kauai (Hawaiian: Kaua’i)
is one of the main islands of Hawaii and is the 4th largest. It is the oldest
and northernmost island of the Hawaiian chain. It is located 73 miles northwest
of O’ahu. It has a population of 73,298. It forms the bulk of Kuai County,
which also includes the small nearby islands of Ka’ula, Lehua, and Ni’ihau. Its
capital city is Līhu’e.
A hotspot is a volcanic locale thought to be fed by underlying mantel that is anomalously hot compared with the surrounding mantle.
.jpg)
Diagram showing a cross section through the Earth at the Hawaii hotspot. Magma originating in the mantle rises into the asthenosphere and lithosphere. A chain of volcanoes is created as the lithosphere in the Pacific Plate moves over the source of magma. (By Joel E. Robinson, USGS. - Cropped from the 108 MB PDF file available here and described here., Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=18129204).
According to legend, the Polynesian navigator Hawai’iloa, credited with discovering the Hawaiian Islands, named this island after his favorite son. A possible translation of Kaua’i is “place around the neck,” describing how a father would carry his child.
Polynesian inhabitants settled on the island about 600 to 800 AD. They are believed to have come from the Marquesas Islands. A second wave arrived by sea-canoe from Tahiti around 800-1000 AD.
In 1778, Captain James Cook, the first European to have reached the Hawaiian Islands, arrived at Waimea Bay. He named the archipelago the “Sandwich Islands” after his patron, the 6th Earl of Sandwich.
During the reign of King Kamehameha I (1795-1819), Kaua’i and Ni’hau joined his Kingdom of Hawai’i, the last to do so. Their ruler, Kaumuali’i, had resisted Kamehameha for years. Twice, Kamehameha had prepared a huge armada of ships and canoes to take the islands by force, but he had failed. However, in the face of a further invasion, Kaumuali’i decided to join the kingdom without bloodshed and became Kamehameha’s vassal in 1810. He ceded the island to the Kingdom of Hawai’i upon his death in 1824.
In 1835, the first sugarcane plantation was founded on Kauai’i, and for the next century the industry dominated Hawai’i’s economy. Kauai’i’s last sugarcane plantation stopped planting sugar in 2008. Now, tourism is Kauai’i’s largest industry.
Nawiliwili Harbor is located along Kauai’i’s southeastern coast, about 1.5 miles southwest of the small capital city of Līhu’e. The Nawiliwili Bay area has a long history of being an integral part of life on the island. When Captain Cook arrived in 1778, he observed that Nawiliwili was the physical and cultural heart of the area. By the early 19th century, Nawiliwili Bay was becoming an important harbor on the island. However, sailing vessels and interisland steamers could not safely enter fully into the bay, since the area was too sandy and vessels risked being smashed onto the rocks by waves. It wasn’t until 1930 that sugar baron and philanthropist George Wilcox donated funds to make the harbor safe for larger vessels to dock. It has been the main harbor of the island since 1930. The harbor’s name comes from the many Wiliwili trees that once flourished there.
A hotspot is a volcanic locale thought to be fed by underlying mantel that is anomalously hot compared with the surrounding mantle.
.jpg)
Diagram showing a cross section through the Earth at the Hawaii hotspot. Magma originating in the mantle rises into the asthenosphere and lithosphere. A chain of volcanoes is created as the lithosphere in the Pacific Plate moves over the source of magma. (By Joel E. Robinson, USGS. - Cropped from the 108 MB PDF file available here and described here., Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=18129204).
According to legend, the Polynesian navigator Hawai’iloa, credited with discovering the Hawaiian Islands, named this island after his favorite son. A possible translation of Kaua’i is “place around the neck,” describing how a father would carry his child.
Polynesian inhabitants settled on the island about 600 to 800 AD. They are believed to have come from the Marquesas Islands. A second wave arrived by sea-canoe from Tahiti around 800-1000 AD.
In 1778, Captain James Cook, the first European to have reached the Hawaiian Islands, arrived at Waimea Bay. He named the archipelago the “Sandwich Islands” after his patron, the 6th Earl of Sandwich.
During the reign of King Kamehameha I (1795-1819), Kaua’i and Ni’hau joined his Kingdom of Hawai’i, the last to do so. Their ruler, Kaumuali’i, had resisted Kamehameha for years. Twice, Kamehameha had prepared a huge armada of ships and canoes to take the islands by force, but he had failed. However, in the face of a further invasion, Kaumuali’i decided to join the kingdom without bloodshed and became Kamehameha’s vassal in 1810. He ceded the island to the Kingdom of Hawai’i upon his death in 1824.
In 1835, the first sugarcane plantation was founded on Kauai’i, and for the next century the industry dominated Hawai’i’s economy. Kauai’i’s last sugarcane plantation stopped planting sugar in 2008. Now, tourism is Kauai’i’s largest industry.
Nawiliwili Harbor is located along Kauai’i’s southeastern coast, about 1.5 miles southwest of the small capital city of Līhu’e. The Nawiliwili Bay area has a long history of being an integral part of life on the island. When Captain Cook arrived in 1778, he observed that Nawiliwili was the physical and cultural heart of the area. By the early 19th century, Nawiliwili Bay was becoming an important harbor on the island. However, sailing vessels and interisland steamers could not safely enter fully into the bay, since the area was too sandy and vessels risked being smashed onto the rocks by waves. It wasn’t until 1930 that sugar baron and philanthropist George Wilcox donated funds to make the harbor safe for larger vessels to dock. It has been the main harbor of the island since 1930. The harbor’s name comes from the many Wiliwili trees that once flourished there.
Room Service Breakfast, ordered for 7:15, came a little early.
MT 7:10 AM - Kauai: Don with our breakfast on the stateroom's veranda (balcony).
MT 7:17 AM - Kauai: sunrise over island (mild telephoto 49 mm).
7:29 AM - Kauai: island, with bridge of Viking Star at far right.
MT 7:31 AM - Kauai: mountains on island (mild telephoto 51 mm).
MT 7:53 AM - Kauai: Nawiliwili - breakwater jetty as we entered the port (mild telephoto 41 mm).
MT 8:18 AM - Kauai: Nawiliwili - crew on bridge of Viking Star, viewed from our balcony (telephoto 93 mm).
At 9:05, we went to the Terminal parking lot meeting place for our (included) shore excursion "ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls &
Kilohana Plantation." Later, it would be in the rain.
The My Viking Journey web site
described the shore excursion ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls & Kilohana Plantation
as follows:
INCLUDED
Day 10 – Kauai (Nawiliwili), Hawaii, United States
Sunday, November 19
8:30 AM / 8:45 AM / 9:00 AM / 9:15 AM / 12:00 PM / 12:15 PM / 12:30 PM / 12:45 PM
1.5 Hours
EASY
NATURAL WORLD
SIGHTSEEING
Scenic Kauai and Sugarcane Heritage
Witness the lush scenery of Kauai, the “Garden Island,” and get a glimpse of Hawaii’s past at a sugar plantation.
Embark on a scenic drive by motor coach to Wailua, known as the “Land of the Kings.” Here, your eyes will feast upon nature as you admire the beauty of your surroundings. At the north branch of the Wailua River, you will find ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls. Observe the cascade of water as it flows more than 150 feet below. Next, continue your journey to the Kilohana Plantation, a historic landmark that offers its visitors insight into Hawaii’s heritage. At the center of this 27,000-acre sugar plantation lies a magnificent 1930’s Tudor-style mansion. Enjoy time to explore the beautifully manicured gardens and local artisan shops before returning to your awaiting ship.
INCLUDED
Day 10 – Kauai (Nawiliwili), Hawaii, United States
Sunday, November 19
8:30 AM / 8:45 AM / 9:00 AM / 9:15 AM / 12:00 PM / 12:15 PM / 12:30 PM / 12:45 PM
1.5 Hours
EASY
NATURAL WORLD
SIGHTSEEING
Scenic Kauai and Sugarcane Heritage
Witness the lush scenery of Kauai, the “Garden Island,” and get a glimpse of Hawaii’s past at a sugar plantation.
Embark on a scenic drive by motor coach to Wailua, known as the “Land of the Kings.” Here, your eyes will feast upon nature as you admire the beauty of your surroundings. At the north branch of the Wailua River, you will find ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls. Observe the cascade of water as it flows more than 150 feet below. Next, continue your journey to the Kilohana Plantation, a historic landmark that offers its visitors insight into Hawaii’s heritage. At the center of this 27,000-acre sugar plantation lies a magnificent 1930’s Tudor-style mansion. Enjoy time to explore the beautifully manicured gardens and local artisan shops before returning to your awaiting ship.
Wailua is a
census-designated place (CDP) located on the eastern side of the island of Kaua’i.
It is often referred to as a bedroom community, since it is home to many (pop.
2,359 in 781 households) but lacks any commercial or government facilities.
However, it is a major tourist attraction due to features like the Wailula
River, ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls, and the Sleeping Giant mountain. The east side of Kaua’i, known as the Coconut Coast
due to the large number of coconut trees, includes the towns of Wailua and Kapa’a.
9:28 AM - Kauai: view, from bus window across aisle, of part of Sleeping Giant mountain and larger mountains in distance.
9:28 AM - Kauai: view, from bus window across aisle, of "Sleeping Giant" mountain in distance.
.jpg)
9:35 AM - Kauai: view, from bus window across aisle, of "Sleeping Giant" mountain.
9:40 AM - Kauai: view, from bus window, of sign pointing to "Opaekka Falls" ahead; small mountain near sign and larger mountain range at left, in distance.
.jpg)
Kauai: ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls (By Bret Robertson from Fullerton, United States - Opaeka'a Falls, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3220926).
ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls is a waterfall
located on the ʻŌpaekaʻa Stream in Wailua River State Park on the eastern side
of Kauai’i. It is a 151-foot waterfall that flows over basalt from volcanic
eruptions missions of years ago. The name ʻŌpaekaʻa means “rolling shrimp, with
opae being Hawaiian for “shrimp” and ka’a for “rolling.” The name
dates back to days when the native freshwater shrimp Atyoida disulcata
were plentiful in the stream and were seen rolling and tumbling down the falls
and into the churning waters at the base of the falls. Most of the time, it
falls in a double cascade, but the two sides may become one after a heavy rain.
9:40 AM - Kauai: view, from bus window at ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls, of Makaleha Mountains in distance.
The Makaleha Mountains are
visible in the background when viewing Ōpaekaʻa Falls. They are located on the
eastern side of Kaua’i, on the north side of the Wailua River.
9:42 AM - Kauai: view, from bus window, of Makaleha Mountains in distance, and first glimpse of top of ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls (in center).
9:41 AM - Kauai: first real view of top of ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls, from bus window, with Makaleha Mountains in distance and other tourists by rail in foreground (mild telephoto 36 mm).
9:41 AM - Kauai: view of top of ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls, from bus window, with Makaleha Mountains in distance, over heads of other tourists by rail in foreground (telephoto 93 mm).
9:42 AM - Kauai: view of top of ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls, from bus window, with Makaleha Mountains in distance (telephoto 93 mm).
MT 9:44 AM - Kauai: view of top of ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls, from bus window, with Makaleha Mountains in distance (telephoto 133 mm).
9:43 AM - Kauai: ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls - hala fruit on way from parking lot to viewpoint.
MT 9:45 AM - Kauai: ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls - hala fruit on way from parking lot to viewpoint (telephoto 82 mm).
%20(commons.wikimedia.org).JPG)
Outer husk of hala fruit (By
AntanO - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=30742084).
Hala fruit is a large edible fruit that comes from the Pandanus Tectorius tree, known in Hawaii as hala tree (pū hala in Hawaiian). Although not closely related, the fruit resembles a pineapple. It is sometimes described as looking like an “exploded planet.” The fruit is made up of 38-200 wedge-like segments, called keys or cones, that have an outer fibrous husk and are up to 8 inches in length. It is native to the Pacific Islands, Southeast Asia, and eastern Australia.
9:45AM - Kauai: ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls - our group on on narrow railed walkway from parking lot toward Wailua River viewpoint, along road with signs for pedestrian crossing (the one on white says, "STOP here for Pedestrians"); plant with small, puffy green, white, and yellow balls.
9:45 AM - Kauai: ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls - on way from parking lot toward Wailua River viewpoint, plant with small, puffy balls that seem to start out green and turn first white, then yellow as they grow and mature.
MT 9:46 AM - Kauai: ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls - on way from parking lot toward Wailua River viewpoint, plant with small, puffy balls that seem to start out green and turn first white, then yellow as they grow and mature (mild telephoto 46 mm).
9:46 AM - Kauai: Wailua River viewpoint - view of one of the two parts of the Wailua River that can be seen from here (vertical).
9:46 AM - Kauai: Wailua River viewpoint - view of that part of the Wailua River (horizontal).
9:46 AM - Kauai: Wailua River viewpoint - view of other of the two parts of the Wailua River that can be seen from here.
9:46 AM - Kauai: Wailua River viewpoint - bronze sign for "Wailua Heritage Trail - Preserving the Culture and History of the Wailua River Valley - Maunakapu and Wailua River"; text reads:
"The mountain ridges of Maunakapu and Nounou divided the Wailula ahupuaà into two sections. Wailua Kai, traditionally referred to as, 'Wailuanuiahō'ano,' encompasses about 2800 acres of land seaward. Wailua Uka is comprised of more than 17,455 acres. Altogether, the verdant valley provided all of the resources and necessities to support the chiefly retinues, along with the populace of maka'āinana who cultivated the lands and provided labor for the ruling ali'i.
This marker is near Kapa'a. It can be reached from Hawaii Route 580 by parking at the Ōpaekaʻa Falls overlook and walking the sidewalk toward the falls, then using the pedestrian crosswalk to reach the marker.
The Wailua Heritage Trail,
from Kauai’s eastern shore to Mount Wai’ale’ale, leads to sandy beaches, the
gentle Wailua River, verdant uplands, and lofty mountains graced by waterfalls.
The trail is a tour of nine significant points of interest near the Wailua
River that can be viewed when reached by car.
The heading on this marker actually refers to Maunakapu Mountain and Wailua River. [This title misled Don to understand that two rivers meet here.]
Maunakapu (or Mauna Kapu) is a mountain ridge located near the town of Kapa'a, Kauai’i.
The Nounou mountain ridge is what is also known as “Sleeping Giant.”
The Wailua River is 20 miles long, flowing through a valley with waterfalls and verdant landscapes. It is the only navigable river in the Hawaiian Islands.
An ahupuaà is a division of land from the uplands to the sea. The boundary was marked by a heap of stones (ahu). The image of a pig (pua’a) was placed on top of the heap as a tribute to the chief of that land division. The mountain ridges of Maunakapu and Nounou divided the Wailua ahupuaà into two sections: Wailua Kai and Wailua Uka. The Hawaiian word kai means "sea," and uka means "land."
The Hawaiian word maka'āinana means “commoners” or “people who tend to the land.” It is a compound word made up of ma, meaning “on” and ka’āinana, meaning “the land.”
The Hawaiian word ali’i means “chief.”
The heading on this marker actually refers to Maunakapu Mountain and Wailua River. [This title misled Don to understand that two rivers meet here.]
Maunakapu (or Mauna Kapu) is a mountain ridge located near the town of Kapa'a, Kauai’i.
The Nounou mountain ridge is what is also known as “Sleeping Giant.”
The Wailua River is 20 miles long, flowing through a valley with waterfalls and verdant landscapes. It is the only navigable river in the Hawaiian Islands.
An ahupuaà is a division of land from the uplands to the sea. The boundary was marked by a heap of stones (ahu). The image of a pig (pua’a) was placed on top of the heap as a tribute to the chief of that land division. The mountain ridges of Maunakapu and Nounou divided the Wailua ahupuaà into two sections: Wailua Kai and Wailua Uka. The Hawaiian word kai means "sea," and uka means "land."
The Hawaiian word maka'āinana means “commoners” or “people who tend to the land.” It is a compound word made up of ma, meaning “on” and ka’āinana, meaning “the land.”
The Hawaiian word ali’i means “chief.”
9:46 AM - Kauai: Wailua River viewpoint - bronze sign for "Wailua Heritage Trail - Preserving the Culture and History of the Wailua River Valley - Wai'ale'ale"; text reads:
"Steeped in Hawaiian oral traditions, Wai'ale'ale mountain represents the piko or navel of Kauai'i. Its peak, Kawaikini is the highest point on the island at 5,243 feet. Reputed as one of the world's wettest spots, it averages 400 to 600 inches of annual rainfall. It is also home to Kauai'i's main watershed, Alaka'i."
Mount Wai'ale'ale is located almost
exactly in the middle of the island of Kauai’i and is the second highest peak
on the island at 5,148 feet. It is actually a dormant shield volcano. Its name
means “rippling water” or “overflowing water” in Hawaiian, and many sources say
it is the wettest spot on earth. However, its average annual rainfall is about
450 inches, second to Mawsynram in India with 467.4 inches. This towering green
mountain range is usually tucked behind a shroud of wispy rain clouds. Viewing
the peak requires getting up early before the mid-day clouds move in. The
summit is round in shape, which exposes all sides of its summit to dampening
winds. Its steep cliffs cause humid air to rise quickly, allowing a large
portion of rain in one spot. All this water feeds into four separate rivers,
including the Wailua, helping cement Kuai’i’s place as the only Hawaiian island
with navigable rivers.
9:49 AM - Kauai: Wailua River viewpoint - MT back across the road from the overlook, near protective railing, with a small mountain in background.
9:51 AM - Kauai: that small mountain, near protective railing.
9:52 AM - Kauai: that small mountain on right, with top of ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls just to its left and taller Makaleha Mountains in distance with summit in clouds .
Next, the bus took us to the Kilohana Plantation, where we arrived around 10:30, with steady rain which would last for this entire stop.
According to the My Viking Journey
web site for this shore excursion, "Next, continue your journey to the
Kilohana Plantation, a historic landmark that offers its visitors insight into
Hawaii’s heritage. At the center of this 27,000-acre sugar plantation lies a
magnificent 1930’s Tudor-style mansion. Enjoy time to explore the beautifully
manicured gardens and local artisan shops before returning to your awaiting
ship."
Due to the rain, we first went to the mansion, thinking we could explore the gardens later. However, the mansion was a great disappointment, since it had very little 1930s atmosphere and virtually all the rooms, although with signs identifying their original functions, had been converted into displays of souvenirs for sale. As the rain persisted, we considered seeing some of the grounds by taking the scenic train of the 2.5-mile Kauai Plantation Railway (tickets $16 each). So we braved the rain to go to the Train Depot, in a separate building near where the bus had dropped us off. However, the ticket office at the Train Depot said the train had just departed at 11:00, and the next train ride would not start until noon. We had to be back on the bus by noon. So we just stayed near the Train Depot and the nearby Carriage House, with more shops where we actually bought one small souvenir, and on the porch outside, where we visited with the bus guide Nicole, who was also waiting there. Nicole also showed us where to find an information sheet about the plantation, which provided us with some information about its history and its current function:
“Translated from Hawaiian, the name Kilohana literally means ‘not to be surpassed.’ This was certainly the case in 1935, when sugar baron Gaylord Wilcox built his legendary 16,000 sq. ft. plantation estate at the center of 26,000 acres of sugar.”
In 1935, during the Golden Age of Sugar, Wilcox hired an architect to design the Tudor home, with richly crafted woods for paneling, custom furniture from San Francisco, and fine art from the Orient, Hawaii and Pacific islands. When completed, it would be the most expensive home on Kauai. In 1986, it was reinvented as a visitor destination.
The information sheet listed the original functions of the various rooms, along with the shops that now occupy them and pointed out the Plantation House Restaurant that now occupies much of the main floor. It also invited guests to “Experience the BEST shopping on Kauai while touring this historic property.”
Due to the rain, we first went to the mansion, thinking we could explore the gardens later. However, the mansion was a great disappointment, since it had very little 1930s atmosphere and virtually all the rooms, although with signs identifying their original functions, had been converted into displays of souvenirs for sale. As the rain persisted, we considered seeing some of the grounds by taking the scenic train of the 2.5-mile Kauai Plantation Railway (tickets $16 each). So we braved the rain to go to the Train Depot, in a separate building near where the bus had dropped us off. However, the ticket office at the Train Depot said the train had just departed at 11:00, and the next train ride would not start until noon. We had to be back on the bus by noon. So we just stayed near the Train Depot and the nearby Carriage House, with more shops where we actually bought one small souvenir, and on the porch outside, where we visited with the bus guide Nicole, who was also waiting there. Nicole also showed us where to find an information sheet about the plantation, which provided us with some information about its history and its current function:
“Translated from Hawaiian, the name Kilohana literally means ‘not to be surpassed.’ This was certainly the case in 1935, when sugar baron Gaylord Wilcox built his legendary 16,000 sq. ft. plantation estate at the center of 26,000 acres of sugar.”
In 1935, during the Golden Age of Sugar, Wilcox hired an architect to design the Tudor home, with richly crafted woods for paneling, custom furniture from San Francisco, and fine art from the Orient, Hawaii and Pacific islands. When completed, it would be the most expensive home on Kauai. In 1986, it was reinvented as a visitor destination.
The information sheet listed the original functions of the various rooms, along with the shops that now occupy them and pointed out the Plantation House Restaurant that now occupies much of the main floor. It also invited guests to “Experience the BEST shopping on Kauai while touring this historic property.”
10:53 AM - Kauai: Kilohana Plantation - brass plaque for "Kilohana - Circa 1935" on side of building we passed on the way from the bus stop to the mansion.
10:53 AM - Kauai: Kilohana Plantation - cute little Hawaiian wine bottle covers on display in Carriage House; we actually bought a set of these.
11:16 AM - Kauai: Kilohana Plantation - map of "Kauai Plantation Railway at Kilohana" on bulletin bord on porch outside the Train Depot.
After lunch, we got off the ship again and walked to the nearby Kalapaki Beach, a 12-minute walk according to the map we got from the Explorers Desk.
MT 2:17 PM - Kauai: Nawiliwili - Don on Kalapaki Beach.
MT 2:35 PM - Kauai: Nawiliwili - MT with sign for "One Island - Many Peoples - All Kauaians."
According to the Viking Daily newsletter, all passengers had be be back on board by 4:00 pm, as the Viking Star prepared to set sail for our next port at Viatape, Bora Bora, French Polynesia (1,699 nautical miles; 6 days sailing). We actually set sail shortly after 4:00.
A little before 4:00, we went to the Wintergarden (Deck 7) for Afternoon Tea, accompanied by the Viking Classical Duo. We shared a table with a couple from California.
MT 3:55 PM - Viking Star: Wintergarden - Don and MT at Afternoon Tea.
MT 4:00 PM - Viking Star: Wintergarden - Viking Classical Duo playing at Afternoon Tea (still photo from MT's .MOV video. which Blogger would not insert here).
Then we watched Sunday Mass on our laptop computer in our stateroom.
At 6:40, we went to The Restaurant (Deck 2) for our pre-ordered dinner.
No comments:
Post a Comment