11-16 Nov Hilo, Hawaii

 

This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our cruise in November-December 2023. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.

The Viking Daily newsletter showed today's weather forecast as "Cloudy 79° F" and "Sunrise: 5:41 AM."

We got up at 6:15 am (Don had been awake).

Today we would finally arrive at our first stop in Hawai'i.

Thursday, November 16, ‎2023, 6:53 AM - Hilo: view, from our balcony, of sea at sunrise and first sight of LAND on horizon.

State Flag of Hawai’i (By Dbenbenn - This SVG flag includes elements that have been taken or adapted from this flag:, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=326833).

 
Hawaii (Hawaiian: Hawai’i) is an island state of the US, in the Pacific Ocean, about 2,000 miles southwest of the US mainland. Hawai’i consists of 137 volcanic islands in the Hawai’ian archipelago. The eight main islands, from northwest to southeast, are Ni’ihau, Kaua’i, O’ahu, Moloka’i, Lana’i, Kaho’olawe, Maui, and Hawai’i.
Settled by Polynesians sometime between 1000 and 1200 AD, Hawai’i was home to numerous independent chiefdoms. In 1778, British explorer James Cook was the first non-Polynesian to arrive at the archipelago. Early British influence is reflected in the state flag, which bears a Union Jack. Hawai’i became a unified, internationally recognized kingdom in 1810, remaining independent until American and European businessmen overthrew the monarchy in 1893. That led to annexation by the US in 1898. It is the most recent state to join the union, in 1959. The Hawaiian Admission Act that granted it statehood used the English version Hawaii for the state name.
The state derives its name from the name of its largest island, Hawai’i.

6:53 AM - Hilo: view, from our balcony, of LAND on horizon (telephoto 130 mm).

Hilo (pop. 44,186) is the largest settlement in Hawaii County, Hawaii. The city overlooks Hilo Bay and has views of two shield volcanoes, Mauna Loa, an active volcano, and Mauna Kea, a dormant volcano.
Originally, the name “Hilo” applied to a district encompassing much of the east coast of the island of Hawai’i. Around 1100 AD, the first inhabitants of Hilo arrived, bringing with them Polynesian knowledge and traditions. A busy farming and fishing area in early times, Hilo evolved into a commercial center for the sugar industry in the 1800s. As sugar plantations in the area created jobs, it drew many workers from Asia. For example, by 187, 26,000 Chinese workers worked in Hawai’i’s sugar cane plantations, one of which was the Hilo Sugar Mill.

 Around 7:00, we went to the World Café (Deck 7) for the buffet breakfast.

MT 7:14 AM - Hilo: view, from near World Café, of LAND on horizon (mild telephoto 79 mm).

According to the Viking Daily newsletter, we were scheduled to arrive at Hilo at 8:00 am.

MT 7:28 AM - Hilo: view, from our balcony, of Grand Naniloa Hotel Hilo (right of center, which we would visit at the end of our shore excursion) as we neared Hilo Bay, with Mauna Loa volcano on distant horizon (mild telephoto 74 mm).

8:02 AM - Hilo: view, from our balcony, of Mauna Kea volcano on horizon, as we neared Hilo Bay.

Don’s notes identified this photo as “Kilauea in distance,” probably because Viking’s description of our shore excursion from Hilo mentions that volcano. However, according to Wikipedia, the city of Hilo has views of two shield volcanoes*, Mauna Loa, an active volcano, and Mauna Kea, a dormant volcano. Based on a comparison of photos on Wikimedia (see below), Don favors Mauna Kea, the top of which is not as smooth as that of Mauna Loa.

Mauna Kea from the Saddle Road on outskirts of Hilo (By Brian W. Schaller - Own work, FAL, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=30782985).

Mauna Kea (abbreviation for Mauna a Wakea), visible from Hilo, is an inactive shield volcano* on the island of Hawai’i. Its peak is 13,803 ft above sea level, making it the highest point in Hawai’i.

Mauna Loa from Hilo Bay (By Kaleodu at English Wikipedia - Own work, CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=72668441).

Mauna Loa (meaning “Long Mountain”) is the Earth’s largest active volcano by both mass and volume. It is a shield volcano* with relatively gentle slopes. Its peak is about 125 ft lower than that of its neighbor, Mauna Kea.

__________

*A shield volcano is named for its low profile, resembling a shield lying on the ground.

8:54 AM - Hilo: view, from our balcony, of Mauna Kea volcano rising above clouds on horizon (mild telephoto 79 mm).

8:55 AM - Hilo: view, from our balcony, of Hilo Bay and Mauna Kea volcano rising above clouds on horizon, with ship's bridge at far right (panorama).

At 10:15, we went to the meeting place, on the Pier for our 6.5-hour shore excursion "Secrets of Puna," which would last until 3:45 pm.

Puna is a district on the easternmost tip of the island of Hawai’i. It is located on a volcanic rift zone of Kilauea volcano. It is subject to frequent lava eruptions and flows.
 
The MyViking Journey web site described the Secrets of Puna as follows:
Secrets of Puna

INCLUDED
Day 7 – Hilo, Hawaii, United States
Thursday, November 16
8:45 AM / 10:15 AM
6.5 Hours
MODERATE
MEAL
NATURAL WORLD
Explore the Explosive Side of Hawaii
Uncover the awesome power of volcanoes during visits to Kilauea’s recent lava flows along the Eastern Rift Zone.
Embark on a scenic drive by motor coach, viewing Hilo highlights such as its historic waterfront and Lili’uokalani Park and Gardens en route to Puna, a landscape full of lava features, black-sand beaches and sweeping ocean views. Along the way, your National Park Service-certified guide will offer insight into volcanology, geology, Hawaiian history as well as describing the various lava flows and fauna you will pass by. Your journey will take you to both MacKenzie State Recreation Area and Isaac Hale Beach Park, where you will be able to see the staggering aftermath of Kilauea’s eruption in 2018. After lunch, enjoy free time exploring the waters around Hilo Bay, before returning to your ship.

We passed by Lili’uokalani Park and Gardens on the bus.

10:33 AM - Puna: Lili’uokalani Park and Gardens, from bus window.

Our first stop was at the Star of the Sea Catholic Church in the town of Kalapana.

Kalapana is a town and a region in the Puna District. The town was the original location of the Star of the Sea Church, also known as the Kalapana Painted Church. In 1990, lava flows from the Kilauea volcano destroyed and partly buried most of the town under lava up to 75 ft deep. Just ahead of that lava flow, the church was moved to its present location along the highway. Lava flows also caused damage to the town in 2010 and 2018.
The church is now owned by the Kalapana ‘Ohana Association and is open to the public. It was “decommissioned” by the diocese and no longer serves as an active Catholic house of worship. However, Mass is still celebrated on the first Friday of each month, with priests from elsewhere on the island volunteering to conduct liturgies.

11:23 AM - Puna: Star of the Sea Catholic Church - exterior.

MT 11:25 AM - Puna: Star of the Sea Catholic Church - part of our group entering church.

11:24 AM - Puna: sign at back of church for "Star of the Sea Catholic Church - Kalapana, Hawaii" which reads:

"The first Catholic priest resident in the Kalapana, Puna area of the Big Island was Father Damien DeVaester, known world-wide as the Apostle of Molokai Leper Settlement. He arrived shortly after his ordination in May, 1864, establishing himself in Kapaahuela, about two miles distant from Kalapana, where he lived in a grass hut and conducted a school.

"His successor, Father Clement Evrard, built  stone Church on the site of Father Damien's temporary bamboo structure. In 1908, Kapaahuela was abandoned and a Church erected on the Kalehaloa property closer to Kalapana.

"In 1927-28, Father Evarist Gielen caused the present Star of the Sea Church to be built. It was he who painted the upper section of the Church, working at night by light from an oil lamp. Father Evarist was changed to the Island of Lanai in 1941 where he is still active.

"In 1964, Mr. George Heidler, an artist from Athens, Georgia, found his way to Kalapana. He conceived the idea of painting the unfinished lower panels and the altar section. He also fashioned the Fourteen Stations of the Cross and the outdoor shrine of beach glass. In his work he included Paao who seems to have been a priest.

"Old Spanish documents afford evidence of a priest having landed on the Puna Coast near Kalapana in the year 1555."

MT 11:26 AM - Puna: Star of the Sea Catholic Church - interior, from rear to altar area.

11:27 AM - Puna: Star of the Sea Catholic Church - left side and altar area.

11:28 AM - Puna: Star of the Sea Catholic Church - altar area; center painting gives false picture of an extension.

11:26 AM - Puna: Star of the Sea Catholic Church - front door (with MT and others) and bell tower at right rear (mild telephoto 58 mm).

11:26 AM - Puna: Star of the Sea Catholic Church - front door (with MT and others) and bell tower at right rear.

11:25 AM - Puna: Star of the Sea Catholic Church - view (from road) of two red KapohoKine Adventures tour busses at right, front door and bell tower, and signs for "NO Picking Coconuts" and "NO DOGS  Allowed" on palm tree in right foreground.

Then the bus tour continued toward MacKenzie Park.

11:43 AM - Puna: Near MacKenzie Park - view (from bus window) of lava field.

11:44 AM - Puna: Near MacKenzie Park - view (from bus window) of lava field.

11:52 AM - Puna: Near MacKenzie Park - view (from bus window) of lava cliff by sea.

12:00 PM - Puna: Near MacKenzie Park - view (from bus window) of lava cliffs by sea.

12:00 PM - Puna: Near MacKenzie Park - view (from bus window) of lava cliffs by sea.

12:09 PM - Puna: MacKenzie Park - view (from bus window) of plaque at park entrance  for "MacKenzie Park in Memory of Forest Ranger A. J. MacKenzie - October 1, 1917-June 28, 1938."

MacKenzie State Recreation Area, also known as MacKenzie State Park or MacKenzie Park, with a low cliffed, wild volcanic coastline, along scenic Highway 137 (the Kalpana-Kapoho Road) in the Puna District. The 13-acre area occupies the harsh lava sea cliffs of the rough Puna coast. The park is home to the famous Punalu’u Black Sand Beach, where volcanic sands meet the crashing waves. Convicts from plantations on Oahu constructed the park in the late 1850s.
The signature feature of the park is the largest stand of ironwood trees in the Hawaiian Islands, mostly planted in the 1930s by Alfred J. MacKenzie, a forest ranger who died very young (at age 21) in 1938, The Recreation Area was named for him one year later. There are restrooms and a covered picnic pavilion.
The park was closed to the public in 2018 due to a flank eruption of the Kilauea volcano, when lava flows erupting in lower Puna approached the park and entered the ocean at two locations nearby.

12:11 PM - Puna: MacKenzie Park - lava and sea.

12:11 PM - Puna: MacKenzie Park - lava and sea.

12:12 PM - Puna: MacKenzie Park - lava cliffs and sea.

12:12 PM - Puna: MacKenzie Park - lava cliffs and sea with crashing waves.

MT 12:13 PM - Puna: MacKenzie Park - Don with lava cliffs and sea with crashing waves.

MT 12:14 PM - Puna: MacKenzie Park - lava cliffs and sea with crashing waves (mild telephoto 34 mm).

MT 12:14 PM - Puna: MacKenzie Park - lava cliffs with rainbow effect of sun shining on mist from crashing waves (mild telephoto 34 mm).

12:13 PM - Puna: MacKenzie Park - more lava cliffs and sea with crashing waves.

MT 12:15 PM - Puna: MacKenzie Park - leaning tree and more lava cliffs and sea with crashing waves (mild telephoto 35 mm).

MT 12:18 PM - Puna: MacKenzie Park - MT and Don with trees and more lava cliffs and sea with crashing waves.

12:40 PM - Puna: MacKenzie Park - two red tour busses parked near picnic pavilion, although we had lunch later.

Then we got back on the bus.

12:59 PM - Puna: MacKenzie Park - view (from bus window) of sign for "MacKenzie SRA" (State Recreation Area) along road.

Then we headed toward Isaac Hale Beach Park.

1:20 PM - Puna: Near Isaac Hale Beach Park - MT looking out bus window at lava field along road.

The Viking description of this excursion indicated that, after the MacKenzie State Recreation Area, we would be seeing the Isaac Hale Beach Park, which is at the intersection of the Kapoho-Kalapana Road (Hawaii state route 137) and Pohoiki road. The park is named in honor of U.S. Army Private Isaac Kepo’okalani Hale, who was killed in action north of the 38th parallel in 1951, during the Korean War. Hale is actually a Hawaiian surname, pronounced HAH-leh. The park covers around 2 acres of rocky shoreline.
The park is located on Pohoiki Bay, which was almost filled with lava from the 2018 lower Puna eruption of the Kilauea volcano, which covered part of the park’s shoreline. The lava flows never completely covered the park, and when the eruption wound down, the front of the lava was still a mere 230 feet from the boat ramp in the harbor, which is the only boat ramp in the Puna district, but it covered most of the swimming area.
The Pohoiki Black Sand Beach, which was born out of the 2018 eruption of the Kilauea volcano, is part of the park. When hot lava comes into contact with water, it quickly solidifies and often fragments or explodes into many small parts. These small lava cinders are then ground into fine black sand by the waves.

1:26 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - what looked like jackfruit.

1:26 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - trees, including what looked like jackfruit,  and bushes near volcanic ground cover.

1:27 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - yucca-like plant and (hauled in) red rock surface of parking lot near road.

Highway 137 is also known as the Red Road, since it was once paved with red cinder rocks, now replaced by asphalt.

MT 1:27 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - better picture of what looked like jackfruit.

 

Jackfruit hanging (By Augustus Binu, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=42008455).

 
Jackfruit (Artocarpus heterophyllus) is well suited to tropical lowlands and is widely cultivated throughout tropical regions of the world.  It is available in Hawai’i year-round. Its Hawaiian name is llocano ‘ananaka or just ‘ananaka (meaning “fruit”). It is the world’s largest tree fruit. The fruit has a pale green color, rough skin, and is made up of thousands of flower buds.

1:29 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - Marcos, the driver/guide from other red bus, showing rock to MT and others by (hauled in) red rock surface of parking lot with lava near sea in background.

1:31 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - red rock surface of parking lot and red rock path leading to right, with lava near sea.

1:32 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - lava and makeshift altar near sea.

1:32 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - makeshift altar of lava stones and shells, surrounded by red rocks, and  lava near sea.

1:33 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - MT and  lava field near sea.

1:36 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - lava field near sea with small palm tree and other plants growing from lava.

1:36 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - lava field near sea (mild telephoto 58 mm).

1:37 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - broken lava  (our driver/guide Nate said magma flow carried other rocks with it, in different colors).

MT 1:38 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - driver/guide Marcos from other red tour bus (clearly identified here by his name tag and "KapohoKine Adventures" on his shirt) also explaining about different colors in broken lava (mild telephoto 50 mm).

MT 1:37 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - small palm tree and other plants growing from lava flow (mild telephoto 50 mm).

MT 1:45 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - more palm trees growing from lava flow.

1:38 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - lava field.

1:39 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - lava field with swirls (Nate said magna cooled at the surface but continued to flow beneath it, multiple times, thus creating the swirls).

1:39 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - more swirls in lava field.

1:40 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - more swirls in lava field.

1:42 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - MT and Marcos, driver/guide from other red bus, on red rock path around swirls in lava field.

1:43 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - more swirls in lava field.

1:50 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - surf below lava cliffs.

MT 1:50 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - MT and another man from our group on lava cliff  with surf below.

MT 1:52 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - large breaker near lava (mild telephoto 42 mm).

MT 1:53 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - Don and MT on lava flow near sea (mild telephoto 42 mm).

MT 1:58 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - MT and Don on lava flow near sea with breakers.

2:02 PM - Puna: Isaac Hale Beach Park - white painted figures on lava cliff as we headed back toward the busses.

Then we headed toward Lava Tree State Park.

MT 2:42 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - chickens near parking (mild telephoto 44 mm).

MT 2:43 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - chickens near parking (mild telephoto 72 mm).

MT 2:43 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - chicken near parking (telephoto 122 mm).

Lava Tree State Park, also known as Lava Tree State Monument, is located off the Pāhoa-Kapoho Road (Hwy 132) 2.7 miles southeast of the town of Pāhoa in the Puna District. Visitors can take a 0.7-mile loop concrete path in this 17-acre State Monument to view the unusual lava molds of tree trunks. In 1790, a lava flow from the East Rift of the Kilauea volcano swept through this forested area, coating the trunks of ‘ōhi’a trees*, leaving tall lava molds of the tree trunks in their wake. It is estimated that the lava creating these tree molds was 11 feet deep. The land was once part of an extensive ranch. Although ancient Hawaiians knew the molds were from a lava flow, a reminder of the power of Pele (the volcano goddess), one of the first to propose that they were from former trees was Rufus Anderson Lyman (1842-1910), a friend of the ranch owner. Vulcanologists confirmed his theory. The park was not touched by the 2018 lava flows from Kilauea, although the road just about a mile down was blocked by 20-foot-tall flows.
A lava tree mold is created when molten lava (magma) covers the tree, forming a mold in place of the tree. This can happen when an active fissure shoots lava into the air and the lava falls and coats a tree, leaving a lava shell shaped like the tree when the tree burns. A lava tree can also form when lava covers an area, then moves quickly away leaving the rock molds behind.
In the case of the Lava Tree State Park, after the initial lava hit the wet trees, a fissure opened and the area quickly drained downslope. Trees that were surrounded by the molten lava cooled the lava that coated them, while the heat of the lava caused the tree inside to burn to ash. When nearby fissures opened and allowed the still liquid molten lava to drain away, the slightly cooler lava that surrounded the trees was already starting to harden and remained above ground. The semi-cooled lava that had accumulated around the doomed trees forms the monuments seen today.
The park is also a surprising botanical oasis with native plants and vibrant ferns that thrive in the shade of the hardened lava. Facilities include restrooms, picnic tables, two covered shelter houses, and a picnic pavilion.

________

* Metrosideros polymorpha is commonly called a lehua tree, an ‘ōhi’a lehula, or simply ‘ōhi’a; all are correct. It is a flowering evergreen tree in the myrtle family. It is endemic to the six largest islands of Hawai'i and is the most common native Hawaiian tree. It brown from 20 to 25 m (66 to 82 ft) tall in favorable conditions. It is a colonizer of recent lava flows and is the first tree that springs up from a lava flow. The flowers range from red to yellow. 'Ōhi’a lehula wood was traditionally used for kapa beaters, poi boards, and weapons. Its flowers and young growth were used for lei and hula altar adornment. Today,‘ōhi’a lehula blossoms continue to be used in cultural ceremonies and practices, such as lei and hula. 

2:43 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - tree with red-orange fruit and yellow flowers.

2:43 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - MT with fragrant yellow flower from that tree.

2:44 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - sink hole (where lava tree disintegrated).

2:44 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - Scarlet Spiral Flag Ginger with yellow flower on one side (our guide said the root is not used in food), with red-violet plant (possibly Hawaiian Red Ti Leaf Plant) at left.

Scarlet Spiral Flag Ginger (Costus woodsonii Maas), also known as Indian Head Ginger or Red Button Ginger is native to Central and South America, but is an aggressive and invasive species that became naturalized in some parts of Hawaii. The bracts of the inflorescence are bright waxy red, forming a pine cone-like spike (10-15 cm long) from which the yellowish-orange flowers protrude one at a time.

The Hawaiian Red Ti Leaf Plant (Cordyline terminalis) is found all over Hawai'i. It is a good luck plant rich in Hawaiian lore. It was used y early Hawaiians as roofing for their homes. Most Ti plant varieties have purple foliage variegated with streaks of hot pink, cream, white, or other shades of purple.

MT 2:46 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - closer view of Scarlet Spiral Flag Ginger with yellow flower on one side, with red-violet plant (possibly Hawaiian Red Ti Leaf Plant) at right.

2:44 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - red-violet plant (possibly Hawaiian Red Ti Leaf Plant), with small Scarlet Spiral Flag Ginger flower at bottom right.

2:45 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - plant with flower that looked like corn on the cob.

MT 3:02 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - plant with flower that looked like corn on the cob.

2:48 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - sign for "A Forest of Lava Trees"; text on left reads:

"The 0.7-mile path takes you through a forest of lava tree molds of various sizes and shapes, Allow 30 minutes for a leisurely walk on the loop route. The path is paved but there are slight inclines as the path follows the natural topography.

"The path may also be wet and slippery after periods of rain. If it starts to rain, take cover in one of the two rest shelters along the path.

"Stay on the path. Plant hide many lava cracks and a surface of rough and uneven lava.

"Lava Tree Molds are Fragile

"Please help us protect and preserve these special volcanic features. View and Photograph the lava tree molds from the path.

"There are around 85 lava tree molds preserved in the park. You will be able to view about 40 of these molds along the path.

"Climbing and touching the molds will hasten their deterioration and collapse.

"Regrowth of the Forest

"Over time, a new forest of ‘ōhi’a trees has become established, A similar forest would have existed at the time of the lava flow. As you walk along the path, compare this forest with the lava molds. The burning of the trees and the draining of the lava left a diversity of sizes and interesting shapes. Some of the molds have fallen and broken while others are in various stages of collapse from natural causes."

Text at top right reads:

"The rest shelters are constructed of ‘ōhi’a posts. 'Ōhi’a is a hard wood valued by Hawaiians for house frames, canoe parts, and 'ō'ō (digging sticks)."

The red dot on the map is for "You Are Here."

2:48 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - tall lava mold with shorter one in background (our driver/guide Nate said hot magma flowed around tree trunk, was cooled by moisture in the tree and hardened. More lava added layers. The tree eventually died, leaving a hollow "lava straw").

2:49 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - Nate with tall lava mold with shorter one and a shorter mound in background with a small brown and yellow sign that reads:

"Stay on Trail - Dangerous Earth - Cracks in Park Area."

2:51 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - hole left by a deteriorated lava tree.

2:53 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - another tall lava tree mold.

2:53 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - that tall lava tree mold, with Nate and part of our group farther around trail.

2:53 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - sign with small text that reads:

"Several large lava cracks run through the park. Keep away from the edges of these cracks as they can collapse and cause serious injury. Do not climb over fences - they are there to protect you." The the hash-marked part of the map at top left shows the East Rift Zone of Kilauea on the southeast point of the island of Hawaii.

2:53 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - closer view of another brown and yellow sign that reads: "Stay on Trail - Dangerous Earth - Cracks in Park Area."

2:54 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - another, medium-size lava tree mold with uluhe fern plants growing out of it.

Uluhe fern (By Forest & Kim Starr, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6169917).

 
Uluhe ferns are indigenous to Hawai’i and are found on all the main Hawaiian islands. Dicranopteris linearis is a common species of fern known by many common names, including Old World forked fern and uluhe (Hawaiian). It is one of the most widely distributed ferns of the wet Old World tropics and adjacent regions, including Polynesia and the Pacific.

MT 3:04 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - wild orchids.

3:03 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - Nate talking to our group near another Scarlet Spiral Flag Ginger plant.

3:04 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - closer view of that Scarlet Spiral Flag Ginger plant (telephoto 130 mm).

3:05 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - closer view of another Scarlet Spiral Flag Ginger plant (telephoto 79 mm).

3:05 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - more lava tree molds, with grass growing out of tops; part of our group on paved path.

3:06 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - another view (from the path) of same three lava tree molds, with grass growing out of tops.

3:10 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - sign for "Creating a Lava Tree Mold"; text (in three paragraphs that correspond to the illustrations) reads:

"A grove of mature ‘ōhi’a trees with an understory of uluhe ferns covers these lands of Puna which are part of Kilauea volcano. The plants thrive in the rich, moist organic soils formed atop the earlier flows of pāhoehoe lava.

"In the 17th or 18th Century, a fiery eruption of Kilauea sends red hot lava flowing down the slopes of the volcano. Crackling and thundering sounds of falling and burning trees follow in the wake of the lava flow. The tree molds record the maximum thickness of the lava as it passes the ‘ōhi’a trees.

"As the lava recedes, a stark, black landscape remains. The ropy texture of the pāhoehoe lava marks the exterior of the molds as the lava cools and hardens against the tree trunk. In a matter of months, new life appears with the growth of lichens and ferns in the moist cracks of the lava."

Mafic (ferromagnesian, dark-colored) lavas such as basalt characteristically form flows known by the Hawaiian names pāhoehoe and aa (or a’a). Pāhoehoe lava flows are characterized by smooth, gently undulating, or broadly hummocky surfaces. In contrast to pahoehoe, the surface of aa lava is exceedingly rough, covered with a layer of partly loose, very irregular fragments commonly called clinkers.
Pāhoehoe and aa flows from the same erupting vent are usually identical in chemical composition. In fact, it is common for a flow that leaves the vent as pahoehoe to change to aa as it progresses downslope.

3:10 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - sign for "The Invasion of Aliens"; text reads, in part:

"When the Hawaiians arrived around 1,000 years ago, they found the islands covered by forests of ‘ōhi’a and koa. They brought plants and animals on their voyaging canoes as they crossed the Pacific Ocean from other Polynesian islands. ... After Western contact in 1778, large numbers of alien plants, animals, and insects were introduced. ..."

3:12 PM - Puna: Lava Tree State Park - another plant with  corn cob-shaped flowers and one small, bright waxy red Scarlet Spiral Flag Ginger inflorescence from which no yellowish-orange flower is protruding.

Sometime while we were at Lava Tree State Park, we ate lunch of sandwiches (with no chips) and granola bars.

Then we got back on the bus again. After the park, the bus drove through an area with lava fields on both sides of the road, from the 2018 eruption of Kilauea, which lasted 7 days.

3:27 PM - Puna: After Lava Tree State Park - lava field from window on left side of bus.

3:27 PM - Puna: After Lava Tree State Park - lava field from window on right side of bus.

3:27 PM - Puna: After Lava Tree State Park - lava fields on both sides of road from bus windshield (telephoto 109 mm).

Our next stop was at Rainbow Falls, although that was not mentioned in the My Viking Journey description of this excursion. Our driver/guide said this was instead of going to a beach for swimming or snorkeling (due to large swells that stirred up the water). The Viking description had said: "After lunch, enjoy free time exploring the waters around Hilo Bay, before returning to your ship."

4:18 PM - Puna: Rainbow Falls - first view of falls (from the side) with Wailuku River at left.

Rainbow Falls (in Hawaiian: Waiānuenue, meaning rainbow [seen in] water) is a short drive outside of Hilo, in the Wailuku River State Park. The falls cascade over 80 ft over a lava cave that, according to legends, is home to the ancient Hawaiian goddess Hina, the goddess of the moon. At the falls, almost 100 ft in diameter, the Wailuku River rushes into a large pool below.

Rainbow Falls exhibiting its rainbow effect, best seen on sunny mornings around 10 am (By Gr0ph0n - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=109953995).

Rainbows are visible only when standing with your back toward the sun. Since the main viewing area is east of the falls, you can only see rainbows in the morning. This is because rainbows are caused by the reflection, refraction, and dispersion of light in water droplets. The water droplets that form the rainbow in this case do not come from rain, but from all the small water droplets in the mist that surrounds the falling water.
A short climb, past lush vegetation and some huge banyan trees, to the top of the Rainbow Falls rewards you with a new perspective on the falls.

4:18 PM - Puna: Rainbow Falls - first full view of falls (mild telephoto 68 mm).

4:21 PM - Puna: Rainbow Falls - view of falls on the way down lava steps for a better view.

4:21 PM - Puna: Rainbow Falls - view of falls and pool on the way down lava steps for a better view (mild telephoto 68 mm).

4:22 PM - Puna: Rainbow Falls - view of falls, with cave and pool below, from bottom of lava steps.

4:22 PM - Puna: Rainbow Falls - view, from bottom of lava steps, of falls with cave and mist from pool below (mild telephoto 58 mm).

4:24 PM - Puna: Rainbow Falls - sign for at bottom for "A Waterfall that Creates Rainbows"; caption of top left photo reads:

"Hawaiian youth at Rainbow Falls, ca. 1890s - Hawai'i State Archives."

Text below that photo reads:

"Rainbow Falls has been a popular place to visit for over 100 years. Although the view of the falls has remained the same, the way that people get here has changed over the years. From foot and horse to automobiles, it is the beauty of Rainbow Falls that beckons us.

"The waters of the Wailuku River drop 80 feet (24 meters) to create Waiānuenue of Rainbow Falls. Plunging in front of a natural lava cave created by the powerful splash back, the water falls into a large pool below. The width of the waterfall increases during periods of heavy rainfall."

The caption of the photo to the right of that reads:

"Visiting Rainbow Falls, ca. 1900 - Hawai'i State Archives."

The caption of the photo to the right of that reads:

"Riding to Rainbow Falls on horseback, ca. 1930s - Hawai'i State Archives."

The text below that photo reads:

"Enjoy the falls from a distance. Do not proceed beyond the railings and heed all signs. The river can be dangerous and flash floods may occur."

The caption of the photo to the right of that reads:

"Arriving at Rainbow Falls by automobile, ca. 1940s - Hawai'i State Archives."

The text above that photo reads:

"Ka ua mā'ohu o Waiānuenue

"The rain of Waiānuenue that is like a wreath of mist

"Waiānuenue is translated as 'rainbow water' and refers to the waterfall in Hilo that is now known as Rainbow Falls. On sunny days, a rainbow can be seen in the falls. On rainy days, the rising vapor is suggestive of a wreath of mist."

"Adapted from Mary Kawena Pukui 'Ōlelo No'eau, Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings, Bernice P. Bishop Museum, 1933."

4:24 PM - Puna: Rainbow Falls - sign for at bottom for "The Battle of the Wailuku River"; text to left of illustration reads:

"There is a Hawaiian mo'olelo (story) that tells of events and places along the Wailuku  River and how these places got their names.

"Hina, mother of the demigod Maui, lived in the cave behind Rainbow Falls along the Wailuku River. She and her women made kapa, a cloth created by beating the bark from the mulberry bush. A mo'o or giant lizard named Kuna lived along the Wailuku River and frequently tormented Hina by sending torrents of water, logs, and other debris over the falls. But Hina did not worry because she was well protected in her cave and by her son, Maui.

"One night there was a huge storm and rain filled the gorge. Kuna decided that he would take advantage of this storm and placed a huge boulder to block the river just below Hina's cave where she was asleep. As the water rose, the cave started to flood. Now awake, Hina became alarmed and called to her son:

    O Maui, fisher of islands,

    O Maui, slower of sun,

    Listen! It is Hina who calls.

    Come quickly, O Maui my son,

    Come in your swift canoe.

    Come with your mighty war club.

    Save us from Kuna Mo'o.

"Maui heard his mother's call, faintly as in a dream. He looked about the night sky and saw his mother's small, bright cloud above Hawai'i. From the slopes of Haleakalā on the island of Maui, he sprang into his canoe and paddled to Hilo. He saw no water flowing in the Wailuku River and knew that it had been damned."

The text to the right of the illustration reads:

"With his mighty club, Maui rushed up the river and struck the riverbank to make a water-way around the rock. Again, the water was able to flow toward the ocean.

"Kuna fled to a hiding place in the gorge above Rainbow Falls with Maui in pursuit. When Maui found the mo'o, he struck the rocks until the earth trembled and the mo'o rushed out looking for another place to hide. After a  long chase, Kuna dove into the pools just below the Boiling Pot overlook in hopes of escaping Maui's rage.

"Frustrated that he could not get a good shot at the mo'o in these potholes, Maui called upon Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of volcanoes, to provide him with some hot stones to throw into the river. She quickly provided them and Maui was able to make the river boiling hot.

"Kuna was forced to leave the water and fled downstream. Kuna and Maui fought above Rainbow Falls. After being struck by Maui's club, the mo'o fell over the falls. The giant mo'o still lies where he fell, a great rock in the Wailuku River. Today, Kuna is beaten by stones and logs and flooded by water just as he tried to beat and drown Hina.

"As for the deep pool above the falls, the waters of Boiling Pots still bubble and boil as if remembering the mighty battle of Maui and Kuna."

4:25 PM - Puna: Rainbow Falls - falls from near that sign.

4:28 PM - Puna: Rainbow Falls - Nate by red bus with part of our group boarding.

Next, we stopped at the Grand Naniloa Hotel Hilo, which is part of Double Tree by Hilton) for restrooms, gift shop, and photos of Hilo Bay. (The Viking description of this excursion had said: "After lunch, enjoy free time exploring the waters around Hilo Bay, before returning to your ship.")

4:52 PM - Hilo: Grand Naniloa Hotel - statue of hula dancer in hotel, with Hilo Bay in background.

MT 5:06 PM - Hilo: Grand Naniloa Hotel - Don and statue of hula dancer in hotel, with Hilo Bay in background.

MT 4:54 PM - Hilo: Grand Naniloa Hotel - Hawaiian red ginger plant (Alpinia purpurata).

4:54 PM - Hilo: Grand Naniloa Hotel - lava rocks by Hilo Bay (mild telephoto 31 mm).

MT 4:55 PM - Hilo: Grand Naniloa Hotel - Don with lava rocks by Hilo Bay.

MT 4:57 PM - Hilo: Grand Naniloa Hotel - MT with lava rocks by Hilo Bay.

4:57 PM - Hilo: Grand Naniloa Hotel - lava rocks by Hilo Bay.

5:00 PM - Hilo: Grand Naniloa Hotel - tree root that looked like a giant lizard by Hilo Bay.

5:01 PM - Hilo: Grand Naniloa Hotel - "head" of tree root that looked like a giant lizard by Hilo Bay.

5:02 PM - Hilo: Grand Naniloa Hotel - very tall palm tree with hotel in background.

MT 5:02 PM - Hilo: Grand Naniloa Hotel - very tall palm trees with lava rocks by Hilo Bay and hotel in background.

We arrived back at the Viking Star around 5:23.

MT 5:23 PM - aft end of Viking Star at dock; the red awning in distance at right is by the ramp where we reboarded.

We went to our pre-ordered dinner at The Restaurant (Deck 2) at 6:15.

After dinner, we went to the Atrium on Deck 2 to listen to "Atrium Sounds" with Resident Pianist Simina playing down on Atrium Deck 1, 7:00-7:45.

MT 7:46 PM - Viking Star: Resident Pianist Simina playing below (VIDEO).

Passengers had to be back on board at 8:00, as the Viking Star prepared to sail to our next stop on Maui (132 nautical miles).

MT 8:11 PM - Viking Star: map on our stateroom TV showing the route of our cruise, sometimes crossing the International Date Line later on.