11-17 Nov Kahului, Maui, Hawaii

This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our cruise in November-December 2023. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.

The Viking Daily newsletter showed today's weather forecast as "Cloudy 81° F" and "Sunrise: 6:37 AM."

Don woke at 5:30 am and woke MT at 6:00.

Friday, November 17, ‎2023, 6:51 AM - Maui: Kahului - volcano in distance as Viking Star neared port; another, closer volcano and ship's bridge at far right (panorama).

Maui is the second largest island in the Hawaiian archipelago and the 17th-largest in the US. Maui is dominated by two volcanic features: Haleakalā in the southeast and the West Maui Mountains in the northwest. The ‘Īao Valley and its ‘Īao Needle are popular attractions within the West Maui Mountains. The island’s volcanic cones are formed from basalt that poured out of thousands of vents as fluid lava over millions of years. Some of the volcanos were close enough to each other that the lava flows on their flanks overlapped, merging into a single island. The two shield volcanos are connected by an isthmus about 6 miles wide.
Polynesians from Tahiti were Maui’s original inhabitants. Modern Hawaiian history began in the mid-18th century. Kamehameha I, king of Hawai’i island, invaded Maui in 1790 while Maui’s King Kahelkii II was on O’ahu and fought an inconclusive battle with the king’s son and other Maui chiefs. In 1791, Kahekii tried to invade the island of Hawai’i but was defeated. Kamemameha had to wait for a civil war that broke out in 1793 after the death of Kahekii II to finally win control of Maui. Along with the rest of the Hawaiian archipelago, Maui was part of the Hawaiian Kingdom (1795-1893), the Republic of Hawaii (1894-1898), Hawaiian territory (annexed by the US in 1989), and the state of Hawaii (admitted in 1959).

Maui County is a county of the state of Hawaii that consists of the islands of Mau, Lāna'i, and Moloka'i, the latter two of which are uninhabited.

6:51 AM - Maui: Kahului - another, closer volcano, with ship's bridge at far right (mild telephoto 68 mm).

The Viking Star was scheduled to arrive at Kahululi Harbor at 8:00 am.

Kahuliu is an unincorporated community (pop. 28,219) and the largest census-designated place (CDP) on the island of Maui. It is located on the north central side of the island of Maui on the shore of Kahului Bay. It is on the leeward side of Maui relative to the trade winds. It is part of the Kahului-Wailuku-Lahaina Metropolitan Statistical Area, which comprises all of Maui County, including nearby Wailuku and the West Maui town of Lahaina. It hosts a deep-draft harbor that is a manmade port, dredged from the naturally formed Kahului Bay. The harbor is just over a mile from the town of the same name.
 
The Viking Daily newsletter said: “Kahului’s harbor has been a vital center for commerce since the founding of the kingdom by King Kamehameha in 1810. Whalers were the first to take advantage of its deep water to stock up on supplies. Following the whaling industry’s decline, sugarcane production dominated the local economy beginning in the late 19th century, Today, tourism drives Kahului, making it a gateway to Maui’s natural beauty. Located south of this vibrant city is Haleakala National Park, an expanse full of diverse landscapes and one of the world’s largest craters known as Haleakala, or ’House of the Sun.’ ”

At 9:15, we went ashore to meet our group for the (included) shore excursion “Scenic Maui & Ka’anapali Coast” in the parking lot after exiting the Terminal Building.

The My Viking Journey web site originally called this shore excursion “Scenic Maui & Lahaina” and listed the Historic District of Lahaina as one of the highlights. When we first boarded the Viking Star, however, we were given an updated listing of shore excursions that changed the name of this included excursion to “Scenic Maui & Ka'anapali Coast.” The reason for the change was that, on August 8-9, 2023, a wildfire destroyed approximately 80% of Lahaina.
 
The Ka'anapali Coast is a mile-long stretch of beach in western Maui that is the hub for water sports and other activities. Ka'anapali Beach is a stunning mile-long stretch of sand, a couple of miles north of Lahaina, that is one of North America’s best beaches. This former Hawaiian royal getaway has crystal clear waters perfect for snorkeling and surfing.
 
The not yet updated description of this shore excursion on the My Viking Journey web site prior to the August 2015 wildfire read as follows (now deleted parts of the original are lined through and new text is underlined here, to show the difference):
Scenic Maui & Lahaina Ka'anapali Coast

INCLUDED
Day 8 – Maui (Kahului), Hawaii, United States
Friday, November 17
8:30 AM / 8:45 AM / 9:00 AM / 9:15 AM / 1:00 PM / 1:15 PM / 1:30 PM / 1:45 PM
4 Hours
MODERATE
SIGHTSEEING
Iao Needle and Former Kingdom of Hawaii Capital
 
Discover Maui’s natural beauty during a panoramic drive, then visit the historic town of Lahaina Ka’anapali coast. 
Meet your driver-guide and embark on a scenic drive by motor coach to Iao Valley State Park, home to the famous Iao Needle. This vegetation-covered lava remnant rises 1,200 feet from the valley floor and is set amid steep mountain cliffs and a dormant volcano. Learn the history of the park, which was the site of one of Hawaii’s most famous battles in 1790. Continue through the valley, admiring stunning views bookended by the distant West Maui Mountains and the majestic Haleakala Crater, or “House of the Sun.” Enjoy views of sandy beaches, turquoise waters and nearby islands as you journey along the coast. After free time to explore on your own, you will return to your ship.

9:19 AM - Maui: Kahului - view (from bus window) of same, closer volcano, with clouds on top; bow of Viking Star at far right.

9:22 AM - Maui: Kahului - view (from bus windshield) on the road toward the more distant volcano, probably Haleakalā.

.

9:27 AM - Maui: Kahului - view (from bus windshield) on the road toward the closer volcano, probably West Maui Mountains, with cloud at top.

After leaving Kahului, on the east coast, we traveled east on Hawaii Route 32 to Wailuku and then southwest on Hawaii Route 30 to the west side of Maui at Wailuku, where Route 30 turns north toward Lahaina and Ka'anapali.

Hawaii Route 30 highlighted in red and Hawaii Route 3000 in blue (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawaii_Route_30#/map/0).

The current state (then territorial) highway numbering system of Hawaii was established in 1955. Two-digit numbers are primary highways, maintained by the state. Three-digit routes are typically secondary arterials or collectors, while four-digit routes are typically collector or minor roads. Highways on Maui are assigned numbers beginning with 3.
Hawaii Route 30, also known as the Honoapi'ilani Highway, is a 35-mile-long road on West Maui. It begins in downtown Wailuku, extending southeast through Waikapu and Ma'alaea. At Ma'alaea, it turns northwest toward Lahaina and Ka'anapali.
Hawaii Route 3000, also known as the Lahaina Bypass, is a 8.95-mile-long highway that bypasses the town of Lahaina; it opened to the public in 2018.
At the northeastern terminus of Hawaii Route 30 in Wailuku, is the intersection with Hawaii Route 32, which leads east toward Kahaluli and previously northwest toward ‘Iao Valley State Park, where it is also known as the ‘Iao Valley Road. In the 1960s, what had been Hawaii Route 32 west of the junction with Hawaii Route 30 at Wailuku was reassigned as part of Maui County Route 320.
Hawaii Route 32 is now a 2.848-mile-long road that starts in Kahului and ends at Wailuku.

9:32 AM - Maui: view (from bus window) toward the more distant volcano (in fog), and our driver/guide at the wheel.

9:32 AM - Maui: view (from bus window) of mountain in distance (mild telephoto 79 mm).

9:34 AM - Maui: view (from bus window) of burned foothills near Lahaina with wind turbines along top (mild telephoto 79 mm).

As we drove through Lahaina on Highway 30, our driver/guide asked us not to take photos in Lahaina, to show respect, and she called for a few minutes of silence.

Lahaina is located on the northwest coast of the island of Maui. As of the 2020 census, it had a resident population of 12,702. On August 8-9, 2023, a wildfire destroyed approximately 80% of Lahaina, including cultural and historical sites in the Historic District. As of February 2024, 101 deaths had been confirmed and two people remain missing.

 

Downtown Lahaina on the waterfront prior to the 2023 wildfire (By en:User:Calbear22 - en:User:Calbear22, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2916374).

 

Aerial view of Lahaina Banyan Court Park smoldering on August 9, 2023 after the wildfire (By US Civil Air Patrol - https://web.archive.org/web/20230810093017/https://www.civilbeat.org/2023/08/live-maui-wildfire-photos-and-updates-lahaina-and-kula/, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=135768629).

 
Around 1794, King Kamehameha I (Kamehameha the Great) conquered Maui and later named Lahaina the capital of his kingdom. It remained the capital of Hawai’i until King Kamehameha III declared Honolulu the capital city of the Hawaiian Kingdom in 1850. Thus, it was the first capital of a united Hawai’i and a place where Christian missionaries came to impose their beliefs on the native people and visiting sailors. New England whaling ships hunting sperm whales in the Pacific began to arrive in Hawai’i in 1819, and many ships anchored at Lahaina. It served as a major Pacific whaling port and fishing town in the 19th century due to its prime location on whale migration routes, calm ocean conditions, and endless days of perfect sunshine. Lahaina was known as the quintessential “old-time-sea-town-turned-tourism.” It was also the only full-featured, walkable “downtown” on Maui, making it the second most visited spot on the island. The Old Lahaina Courthouse was originally built in 1859 using materials salvaged from the palace of King Kamehameha II and was destroyed in the 2023 wildfire. The courthouse was next to the Banyan Tree, probably the most famous landmark in Lahaina. The tree was planted near the site of Kamehameha’s first palace in 1873 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the arrival of the first Christian missionaries. The tree, brought from India, was only 8 ft high when planted, but as of 2005 it had grown to a height of 49.2 ft, spread over most of an acre, and had 16 trunks. Scarred but still standing after the 2023 wildfire but with doubtful prospects for survival, it was the largest and oldest living banyan tree on Maui. There was a minimally reconstructed corner of the ruins of the Old Fort that dominated Lahaina Town from 1832 to 1854.
Lahaina Banyan Court Park, also known as Lahaina Courthouse Square and commonly called Banyan Tree Park, contains multiple heritage sites in the Lahaina Historic District.
Lahaina Town was one of Hawai’i’s most historic towns, with an eclectic mix of history, restaurants, shops, and art galleries. The Lahaina Historic District, declared a National Historic Landmark in 1962, included the Lahaina Banyan Court Park, located next to the harbor in historical Lahaina Town. The park included the Banyan Tree, the Old Lahaina Courthouse, and the Old Fort.

9:35 AM - Maui: view (from bus window) of wooden figures at crossroads with foothills in background (telephoto 130 mm).

9:45 AM - Maui: view (from bus windshield) of cut through dry hills on the leeward (west) side of Maui.

9:51 AM - Maui: view (from bus windshield) of kukui trees (state tree of Hawai'i) by the road.

The kukui (Aleurites moluccanus) is the state tree of Hawai'i. It is also called kukui tree, kukui nut tree, or candlenut tree. This large spreading tree is common in moist lowland mountain forests throughout the Hawaiian islands. It was made the state tree in 1959 because of the multiplicity of its uses by ancient Hawaiians for light, fuel, medicine, dye, and ornament, as well as the distinctive beauty of its light green foliage.

MT 9:52 AM - Maui: view (from bus windshield) of more kukui trees by the road.

MT 9:52 AM - Maui: view (from bus windshield) of more kukui trees by the road.

On the northwest coast of the island,  the bus stopped at The Whaler hotel on Ka'anapali Beach, where we could walk through the shops of Whalers Village oceanfront retail center to the sandy beach.

Ka'anapali Beach is 3.44 miles north of Lahaina on Highway 30. Its clear waters and vibrant marine life make it ideal for swimming and snorkeling.

10:27 AM - Maui: Ka'anapali Beach, with surf; mountain in distance, with cloud at top.

10:28 AM - Maui: Ka'anapali Beach, where we entered the beach through Whalers Village, with The Whaler hotel in background.

MT 10:31 AM - Maui: Ka'anapali Beach - MT on beach near surf.

MT 10:31 AM - Maui: Ka'anapali Beach - MT on beach after surf came in.

MT 10:32 AM - Maui: Ka'anapali Beach - Don on beach.

MT 10:33 AM - Maui: Ka'anapali Beach - MT and Don on beach (Don still has his shoes on).

10:33 AM - Maui: Ka'anapali Beach, with surf; mountain in distance with cloud at top.

10:33 AM - Maui: Ka'anapali Beach - MT on beach near surf; mountain in distance with cloud at top.

10:34 AM - Maui: Ka'anapali Beach - MT on beach with surf starting to come in; mountain in distance with cloud at top.

10:37 AM - Maui: Ka'anapali Beach - MT caught in surf; mountain in distance with cloud at top.

10:37 AM - Maui: Ka'anapali Beach - MT escaping surf; mountain in distance with cloud at top.

After that, Don went down to the lower level of the beach and got caught in large waves that came higher up.

MT 11:12 AM - Maui: Ka'anapali Beach - mineral sunscreen dispenser on grass near beach, with The Whaler hotel in background.

MT 11:22 AM - Maui: Ka'anapali Beach - blue flag, possibly with logo of The Whaler hotel, next to US flag.

MT 11:23 AM - Maui: Ka'anapali Beach - golf course with West Maui Mountains in background (mild telephoto 76 mm).

Then we got back on the bus and headed back the way we had come on Hawaii Route 30.

11:33 AM - Maui: view (through bus windshield) on the road again, back the way we had come, with darkened hills (possibly by wildfire) on both sides of road and West Maui Mountains ahead.

11:42 AM - Maui: view (through bus windshield) of  monkeypod trees on both sides of road.

The monkeypod is one of the most cherished trees of Hawai'i. It is native to South and Central America. It arrived in what were then called the Sandwich Islands in 1847 when Peter A. Brinsmaid of Ladd & Company—one of the first sugar plantations on the islands—introduced two seeds from Panama to the volcanic soil. Mark Twain, who visited Hawai'i when he was 31, is credited with planting a monkeypod tree on the Big Island (Hawai'i) in 1866. Those seeds are believed to be the progenitors of hundreds of monkeypod trees currently found throughout Hawai'i. Its Hawaiian common name comes from the scientific name Pithecellobium saman, since Pithecellobium means “monkey earring” in Greek. Throughout Latin America, it is called saman.

MT 11:47 AM - Maui: view (through bus window) of monkeypod tree near the ocean (telephoto 133 mm).

We passed through Lahaina again on the way back south, but still took no photos there.

At the coastal town of Ma'alaea, Hawaii Route 30 turned northeast toward Wailuku.

11:53 AM - Maui: Wailuku - view (through bus windshield) of Wailuku Union Church.

Wailuku (pop. 17,697) is located at the mouth of the 'Iao Valley at the base of the West Maui Volcano. In the early 20th century, it was the main tourist attraction on Maui, though it has since been eclipsed with the rise of resort towns such as Ka'anapali.
Wailuku Union Church, founded in Wailuku in 1866, started in 1867 with a small wooden frame church. When the Wailuku Sugar Company was formed in the mid-19th century, more English-speaking people came to the Wailuku area, where previously English was spoken only as a second language. The cornerstone for the present building was laid in 1911 in a new location on the Honoapillani Highway (Hawaii Route 30). Stones for the walls were gathered from the fields of the Wailuku Sugar Company and Iao Valley. The church was built in the Gothic Revival style with steeply pitched gable roofs, buttresses, and a crenellated tower.

12:11 PM - Maui: Wailuku - view (through bus windshield) of Ka'ahumanu Church.

Ka'ahumanu Church, in Wailuku, from the northeast (By 293.xx.xxx.xx - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10181204).

Ka'ahumanu Church, in Wailuku, was established in 1832. The first church was only a small shed. In 1832, Queen Ka'ahumanu, an early convert to Christianity, visited Maui and came to the site of the then new church. She asked the Congregationalist mission to name the permanent structure after her. In 1834, due to the ballooning number of congregation members, a second building was built, which was a thatched structure. As the numbers again ballooned in 1837-40, a third structure was built as a “two-story” (one floor and a gallery) stone church.
The current structure, the fourth on the site, was built in 1876 by Wailuku Sugar Company’s manager Edgar Bailey to honor Queen Ka'ahumanu’s earlier request. It is built in the New England simple style Gothic architecture. The bell and three clock faces are from the Seth-Thomas clock works in Connecticut and were brought here in 1884 for the apparatus donated by the Bailey family. Maui County officials designated the church’s clock as the “Town Clock” in 1964.
The hymns and invocation in the services are in the Hawaiian language.

At Wailuku, we turned northwest on Maui County Route 320 toward 'Iao Valley State Monument.

At the northeastern terminus of Hawaii Route 30 in Wailuku, is the intersection with Hawaii Route 32, which leads east toward Kahaluli and previously northwest toward ‘Iao Valley State Monument, where it is also known as the ‘Iao Valley Road. In the 1960s, what had been Hawaii Route 32 west of the junction with Hawaii Route 30 at Wailuku was reassigned as part of Maui County Route 320.

12:11 PM - Maui: Wailuku - view (through bus windshield) of West Maui Mountains, in distance ahead on Maui County Route 320.

12:13 PM - Maui: Wailuku - view (through bus windshield) of kukui trees along Maui County Route 320.

12:15 PM - Maui: Wailuku - view (through bus windshield) of starting up 'Iao Valley on Maui County Route 320.

12:15 PM - Maui: Wailuku - view (through bus windshield) of bougainvillaea near houses along Maui County Route 320.

12:17 PM - Maui: Wailuku - view (through bus windshield) of green hills of 'Iao Valley along Maui County Route 320.

12:18 PM - Maui: Wailuku - our driver/guide and view (through bus windshield) of banyan tree and sign for  "Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens" along Maui County Route 320.

Kepaniwai Park and Heritage Gardens, located on 'Iao Valley Road adjacent to the Wailuku Stream (aka ‘Iao Stream), is a public park containing displays that honor the cultures (including Hawaiian, Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Filipino, Portuguese, and American missionary) that contributed to modern Maui. The park’s name harkens back to the infamous Battle of Kepaniwai in 1790 between King Kamehameha I of Hawai'i and King Kalekili of Maui. The battle was so bloody that dead bodies blocked the 'Iao Stream, and the battle site is named Kepaniwai, meaning “the damming of the waters.”

At the far end of 'Iao Valley Road, we arrived at the 'Iao Valley State Monument.

12:20 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - view (through bus window) of sign for "'Iao Valley State Monument."

'Iao Valley is a lush, stream-cut valley, covered in dense rainforest, in West Maui, located 3.1 miles northwest of Wailuku. ‘Iao (Hawaiian meaning “cloud supreme”) is pronounced “EE-yow.”
The ‘Iao Valley State Monument (state park) is located at the end of ‘Iao Valley Road (Hawaii Route 320). This peaceful 4,000-acre, 10-mile-long park is home to one of Maui’s most recognizable landmarks, the 'Iao Needle. It was here in the 1790 Battle of Kepaniwai that King Kamehameha I of Hawai'i clashed with the forces of King Kalekili of Maui on his quest to unite the islands. Even with the 'Iao Needle serving as a lookout point, Kamehameha defeated Maui’s forces in a ferocious battle that ultimately changed the course of Hawaiian history.

12:24 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - first view of 'Iao Needle, from near bus in parking lot. 

The 'Iao Needle (Kūka'emoku in Hawaiian) is a vegetation-covered lava remnant rising 1,200 ft from the valley floor or 2,250 ft above sea level. The “needle” is a sharp ridge that gives the appearance of being a spire when viewed end-on. The needle is an extension of and surrounded by the cliffs of the West Maui Mountains, an extinct volcano.
A well-marked, paved 0.6-mile walk leads to a scenic viewpoint of the 'Iao Needle that was the product of erosion of the softer rock around the lava remnant over many millennia. In Hawaiian culture, it is known as the phallic stone of Kanaloa, the god of the ocean. The ridge-top lookout provides incredible views of the 'Iao Valley.

MT 12:26 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - first view of 'Iao Needle, from near bus in parking lot (mild telephoto 56 mm).

Then we began to climb the 'Iao Lookout Trail with 133 steps to higher viewpoints.

12:27 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - view of 'Iao Stream, from footbridge above first part of paved trail.

12:27 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - view of 'Iao Needle and 'Iao Stream below, from footbridge.

12:27 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - another view of 'Iao Stream below, with waterfall.

MT 12:29 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - lower part of paved steps on trail.

MT 12:29 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - 'Iao Needle with 'Iao Stream below.

12:29 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - view across to higher paved path (gray) and  'Iao Stream below. 

12:29 PM (Cropped) - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - visitors on higher paved path (gray) and  'Iao Stream below right.

12:29 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - sign for "Battle of Kepaniwai - Uniting the Islands"; the text reads:

"Kamehameha I from the island of Hawai'i began waging battles to unite all the islands under his rule in the late 1780s. In 1790, he landed along Kahului Bay with a large fleet of canoes. At Wailuku, Kamehameha's forces met the Maui forces under Kalanikūple. Kalanikūple was placed in charge while his father, ruling chief Kahekili, was living on O'ahu after defeating the O'ahu forces in 1783. 

"The battle for Maui is said to be one of the most bitter battles ever fought on Hawaiian soil. As the warriors reached 'Iao, their shouts of defiance echoed throughout the valley.

"Women and children on the mountain sides were witnesses to the clashing of wooden spears, the firing of muskets, and the roar of the cannon. There were so many slain from both armies that their bodies clogged the stream. Thus, the battle was named Kepaniwai or 'damming of the waters.'

"The guns and cannon were the winning advantages for Kamehameha. But he and Kalanikūple were destined to meet again in the battle of Nu'uanu Pali on O'ahu in 1795. With Kamehameha's defeat of the forces of Maui and O'ahu, and agreement with Chief Kaumuali'i on Kawai'i, he became the first mo'i (king) of the Hawaiian Islands."

12:29 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - view, from high  up, of  parking lot and 'Iao Stream.

MT 12:32 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - Don and MT with view back down steps to more of path below and on down to 'Iao Stream.

12:33 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - sign for "Nā Wai 'Ehā - The Four Waters of Maui"; the text reads:

"The streams of the valleys of Waikapū, Wailuku, Waihu, and Waihe'e are known as the four waters. The fertile lands and abundant water made this area the largest irrigated agricultural system in Hawai'i and a major population center of Maui.

"Imagine this landscape 200 years ago. Kalo (taro) fields cover the valley floor with 'auwai (ditches) diverting water from the streams to irrigate the lo'i kalo (planted terraces). The hale (houses) of the farmers dot the valley slopes while the hale of the fishermen line the shore of Kahului Bay. Haleki'i and Pihanakalani Heiau on the dune along Wailuku River are the religious center of this very important area.

"With Western contact, the landscape of the Wailuku Plain began to change. By the late 1800s, much of the kalo was gone and the plain was covered by fields of sugar cane irrigated with water from the four streams."

12:33 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - view, from top of trail, yet higher up, of  MT and others by that sign and parking lot and 'Iao Stream.

12:34 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - clear view, from top of trail, of 'Iao  Needle.

12:35 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - sign, at top of trail, for "Kūka'emoku - 'Iao Needle"; the text reads:

"The traditional name for this 2,250 foot high peak is Kūka'emoku. The peak is known as the phallic stone of Kanaloa, Hawaiian god of the ocean.

During periods of warfare, the peak was used as a lookout for warriors. It was here that some of the Maui warriors retreated from the forces of Kamehameha I during the Battle of Kepaniwai.

"Kūka'emoku is an erosional remnant. It is at the end of a ridge comprised of a denser dike stone. The softer rock around the dike stone was eroded by streams and waterfalls."

In geology, dike or dyke is a sheet of rock that is formed in a fracture of a pre-existing rock body. Dikes can be either magmatic (formed when magma penetrates existing rock and solidifies) or sedimentary in origin.

MT 12:35 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - Don at top of more steps toward 'Iao Needle" (mild telephoto  64 mm).

MT 12:36 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - Don near rest stop at top of path, with 'Iao Needle" in background (mild telephoto 32 mm).

MT 12:36 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - MT at rest stop (mild telephoto 32 mm).

Then we started back down the trail.

MT 12:36 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - Don at top of rocky steps leading back down from rest stop, with 'Iao Needle" in background (mild telephoto 52 mm).

MT 12:38 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - MT on rocky steps leading back down from rest stop, with 'Iao Needle" in background (mild telephoto 38 mm).

12:38 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - view, from lower on the trail, of  parking lot and 'Iao Stream.

12:42 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - brown hill, near 'Iao Needle, and footbridge.

On the way back down, we looked at  more signs on the same place we had seen signs for "The Four Waters of Maui,"  "Battle of Kepaniwai - Uniting the Islands," and "Kūka'emoku - 'Iao Needle."

12:44 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - sign for "Ka 'ikena o 'Iao - Sites of 'Iao"; the text reads:

"A thousand years ago, Hawaiians gathered at 'Iao Valley to celebrate and honor the bounty of Lono, god of agriculture, during the annual makahiki festival. More than a hundred years ago, visitors began coming to witness the natural beauty of this valley. Today, 'Iao Valley is recognized as a very special place for both its spiritual value and spectacular scenery.

"The trails of the park are paved but may be slippery when wet. The trail is steep in places with many seps so take your time. Stay on designated walkways and enjoy the views.

Text at points along the trail read as follows:

"LOOKOUT

"When you climb the 133 steps to the top, you will be rewarded with a great view of 'Iao Valley and Wailuku. Allow 30 minutes for the walk.

BRIDGE

"Take a photograph of Kūka'emoku, the peak commonly referred to as 'Iao Needle.

"MĀLA

"A 10-minute walk on a paved loop train through a garden of Hawaiian plants."

"KAHAWAI (Stream)

"Swimming in 'Iao Stream is not recommended. The rocks are slippery and the water is fast flowing.

"CAUTION! Flash floods can occur without warning."

The caption of the photo at top left reads: "Visiting the 'Iao Valley ca. [1890]s - Hawaiian Historical Society."

The caption of the photo to the right of that reads: "Bridge over 'Iao Stream, 1939 - Hawaiian Historical Society."

The caption of the photo at bottom right reads: A Visit to 'Iao Valley, 1908 - Hawaiian Historical Society."

Text below that photo reads:

"Mālama i kēia wahi

"Care for this special place and show respect as you visit this sacred area."

The red dot in the "Parking Lot" just to the left of that is for "You Are Here."

The Makaliki season is the ancient Hawaiian New Year festival, in honor of the god Lono (or Lono-ika-makahiki) of the Hawaiian religion. Lono is associated with fertility, agriculture, rainfall, music, and peace. Hawaiian tradition tells that Lono travels from Kahiki (ancient homeland) to the Hawaiian islands when it first rains during the ho'oilo (wet season) for Makahiki. The Hawaiians had only two seasons: the winter season (ho'oilo), lasting from November to April, and the summer season (kau), lasting from May to October.
The Makahiki season is a holiday covering four consecutive lunar months from October or November through February or March. The beginning of the season is fixed by astronomical observations. The focus of this season was a time for men, women, and chiefs to rest, strengthen the body, and have great feasts of commemoration. The Hawaiians gave thanks to the god Lono for his care, bringing life, blessings, peace, and victory to the land.
The Makaliki festival was celebrated in three phases. The first phase was a time of spiritual cleansing and making offerings to the gods. The second phase was a time of celebration and feasting. In the third phase, the wa'a'auhau (tax canoe) was loaded with offerings to the gods and taken out to sea, where it was set adrift as a gift to Lono.
Each Hawaiian island had its own way of observing Makahiki, although written records are primarily from Hawai'i Island.

12:45 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - 'Iao Stream and hills (taken from cliff near parking lot).

12:45 PM - Maui: 'Iao Valley State Monument - 'Iao Stream (taken from cliff near parking lot).

Then we took Hawaii Route 320 back to the intersection at Wailuku.

12:45 PM - Maui: Wailuku - view (from bus window) of Ka'ahumanu Church.

From Wailuku, we took Hawaii Route 32 the rest of the way back to Kahului and the Viking Star, which we boarded around 1:30.

1:26 PM - Maui: Kahului - bow of Viking Star at pier.

From 2:00 to 2:50, we went to the World Café (Deck 7) for lunch.

Around 4:20, we walked ashore to do some shopping in Kahului.

We went to Long's Drug Store for something and to T-Max, where Don bought a Hawaiian shirt. We also found a place to make a donation for the recovery of Lahaina.

4:25 PM - Maui: Kahului - very large kukui trees.

MT 4:51 PM - Maui: Kahului - Hawaii license tag.

5:00 PM - Maui: Kahului - last rays of sun behind mountains, from near pier; in foreground is "Pilot" boat at "Pilot Launch Mooring."

MT 5:00 PM - Maui: Kahului - last rays of sun behind mountains, from near pier (mild telephoto 73 mm).

MT 5:01 PM - Maui: Kahului - last rays of sun behind mountains, from near pier (mild telephoto 63 mm).

MT 5:03 PM - Maui: Kahului - last rays of sun behind mountains, from near pier.

Then we went back to the Viking Star.

At 6:45, we went to the Pool Deck and World Café (Deck 7) for the special "Taste of Hawaii" dinner, which the Viking Daily newsletter described as follows: 

"As dusk falls, enjoy a sensational evening either alfresco on the Pool Deck or in the World Café. A plethora of Hawaii's local delicacies including Kalua Pork and a combination of savory and sweet flavors that capture the essence of Hawaii's culinary heritage. All prepared by our Executive Chef Joseph and his outstanding culinary team. Accompanied with a musical menu throughout the evening on the Pool Deck with the Viking Band. A perfect pairing for a perfect evening."

7:10 PM - Maui: Viking Star - Don's plate at the "Taste of Hawaii" dinner.

At 8:00, we went to the stage area on the aft end of the Pool Deck for the "Hawaiian Dancing Class," which the Viking Daily Newsletter described as follows:

"Your entertainment team invite you to celebrate today's destination on the dance floor by refining your Hawaiian hula dancing skills in preparation for tonight's main event on the Pool Deck."

MT decided to join the Hawaiian Dancing Class, while Don took a front row seat to record the events with photos and video.

8:27 PM - Maui: Viking Star - group photo at end of Hawaiian Dancing Class, with MT in front row center.

8:28 PM - Maui: Viking Star - group photo at end of Hawaiian Dancing Class, with MT in front row center, this time with Cruise Director Katy next to her.

According to the Viking Daily newsletter, the Hawaiian Dancing Class would be followed immediately (at 8:30) by "Destination Performance - Native Hawaiian Guitarist Jamie Lawrence." The Viking Daily said: "Join us on the Pool Deck for a special live solo performance that is sure to leave you delighted."

MT 8:30 PM - Maui: Viking Star - Destination Performance by Native Hawaiian Guitarist Jamie Lawrence (VIDEO).

At 9:00, all passengers needed to be back onboard  as the Viking Star prepared to sail for our next stop at Honolulu, O'ahu (99 nautical miles).