11-10 Home to Los Angeles

 

This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our cruise in November-December 2023. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.

The Viking Daily newsletter showed today's weather forecast as "Partly Cloudy 78° F" and "Sunrise: 6:20 AM."

At 4:45 am, we were picked up by the airport shuttle for a 30-minute trip to KCI airport.

Delta Flight 1006 departed KCI at 6:35 am for Los Angeles.

MT Friday, November 10, ‎2023, 7‏‎:08 AM - KCI Airport: view, from MT's window, of Delta Planes on tarmac.

We landed at Los Angeles at 8:15 am and deplaned at 8:35.

After claiming our bags, we met Viking representatives in the Baggage Claim area and waited (for the pier to open) until 9:35.

Then they led us out to the Ground Transport area to wait for the bus, from around 10:00 to 11:15 (the bus was delayed by a traffic accident).

We arrived at the Viking Star at 12:00 noon and checked in around 12:30. We received our key cards for our stateroom, although we would have to wait until later to enter the room.

Saturday, November 11, ‎2023, ‏‎6:24 AM - Viking Star: Don's stateroom key card.

Saturday, November 11, ‎2023, ‏‎6:24 AM - Viking Star: other side of Don's stateroom key card, with photo of Viking Star (or another identical ship in the Viking fleet).

From our previous Viking ocean cruises  on this and other identical ships, we knew that the Pool Grill on Deck 7 opened at 11:30 am, so we immediately headed there for our favorite quick lunch of Seared Ahi Tuna, with sides of onion marmalade, the salad bar, and  red wine.

We met a young couple, Bob and Jeanine, who were at the next table. When they learned that Don was a veteran, Bob presented him with a challenge coin that said "Thank You for Your Service" on one side and "Proud of You Veterans" on the other.

A challenge coin is a small coin or medallion, bearing a military organization’s insignia or emblem and carried by the organization’s members. Traditionally, they might be given to prove membership in the organization. Historically, challenge coins were presented by unit commanders in recognition of special achievement by a member of the unit. They could also be exchanged in recognition of visits to an organization.

Friday, November 10, ‎2023, ‏‎4:33 PM - Viking Star: challenge coin.

4:33 PM - Viking Star: other side of challenge coin.

The coin came in a plastic case and a hand-written that said "FB Group: Service Stones" (we would later learn that FB stood for Friends of Bill, and the Viking Daily newsletter would say when and where the group would meet during the cruise. The note also said the following:

"Bill was one of the nicest people you could hope to meet. He had an infectious smile which he shared freely. Bill never  served in the military, but he had a deep appreciation for those who had. The Military Appreciation Challenge Coin, which you are holding, was purchased by Bill before his passing." It also had a URL for a web site with the obituary for William Glover.

Don was grateful for this gesture, although he did not attend any of the group meetings.

At 1 pm, the ship's loud speakers announced that we could enter our stateroom.

However, we first went to the Chef's Table desk on Deck 1 and made additional special dining reservations, one for Manfredi's Italian Restaurant (6 pm today) and two for Chef's Table.

Then, we went to our stateroom to unpack our suitcases, which had been delivered to the room.

In the stateroom, we found the bottle of sparking wine that came with the Penthouse Veranda room. However, we were surprised to find a cheesecake that apparently came because, when making our cruise reservation, Viking had asked if we were celebrating any special events, and MT had told them this cruise was in celebration of our 50th anniversary (although the anniversary would not be until the next year).

MT 2:24 PM - Viking Star: sparking wine and cake.

MT 2:37 PM - Viking Star: view, from our balcony, of bridge in Los Angeles harbor.

MT 2:56 PM - Viking Star: Don and MT with sparking wine.

4:34 PM - Viking Star: MT with sparking wine and cake.

5:14 PM - Viking Star: Don's baggage tag for stateroom 5014 (Deck 5 on port side aft).

From 5:00 to 5:30, we went for a walk on the track around Deck 2.

5:25 PM - Viking Star: view, from track on Deck 2, of bridge in Los Angeles harbor; the Viking Daily said sunset would be at 4:52 pm (mild telephoto 41 mm).

As we were heading for Manfredi's at 6:00, the ship was preparing to set sail for our first stop at Hilo, Hawaii (2165 nautical miles  in 5 days at sea).

At 6 pm, we arrived at Manfredi's Italian Restaurant on Deck 1.

6:09 PM - Viking Star: Manfredi's dinner menu; a note at the bottom of the menu said: "Should you have any food allergies, please let your waiter know and we will be happy to assist." (We were careful to do that at all meals, due to Don's ginger allergy).

We both had caprese for Antipasti (appetizers). For the Primi Piatti (first course), we shared the Pasta del Giorno (pasta of the day, which was seafood) from the Specialita dello Chef (chef's special) part of the menu. For the Secondi Piatti (second/main course), Don had Parmegiana di Pollo (Chicken Parmesan) so large he couldn't finish it), and MT chose to select Pescato del Giorno (fish of the day) from the chef's special part of the menu. We both had red wine.

At 7 pm, Don went to the The Restaurant (Deck 2) to request menus for ordering dinners, starting the next day. On previous cruises, we had done this because of Don's ginger allergy.

Then we ordered room service breakfast for Saturday morning.

We checked the Viking Daily newsletter for Saturday, which had arrived while we were at dinner, for things to do onboard the next day.

11-30 Nov Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our cruise in November-December 2023. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.

The Viking Daily newsletter showed today's weather forecast as "Chance of rain 78° F" and "Sunrise: 6:19 AM."

Since the Viking Star stayed in  Pape'ete overnight, MT took the following photo in the middle of the night.

MT Thursday, November 30, ‎2023, 2:16 AM - Pape'ete: view of port at night, from our veranda.

Don woke at 6 am and woke MT at 6:30.

Room Service Breakfast arrived at 7:15 (we had ordered it for 7:00-7:15).

The Viking Daily newsletter for our second day in “Tahiti (Papeete), French Polynesia” said:
“Mile upon mile of sand beaches ring the island of Tajhiti, not surprising for a paradise that lays claim to the invention of surfing. Whichever oasis you find for yourself, you can be assured of soothing waters, warm sun and the tranquil wash of waves, many of them too tame for surfers yet ideal for leisure-seeking visitors. The island’s volcanic origins deposited black sands on much of its coast, creating dramatic coastal canvases; white-sand beaches stretch along the southern shores. Point Venus on the East Coast boasts dark sands and moderate waves. The waters of Maui Beach, lined with palms, offer shallow, quiet surf for wading and snorkeling among stunning coral reefs.”

From 8:50 to 10:45, we walked into town, on our own.

MT 9:22 AM - Pape'ete: man sweeping sidewlk with palm frond (mild telephoto 45 mm).

First, we went back briefly to the nearby Parc Bougainville, which we had seen on our walkimg tour the day before.

MT 9:32 AM - Pape'ete: Parc Bougainville - white lilies in lily pond (mild telephoto 65 mm).

MT 9:32 AM - Pape'ete: Parc Bougainville - pink lilies in lily pond (mild telephoto 36 mm).

Then we walked along the scenic Rue de Général Charles De Gaulle.

9:35 AM - Pape'ete: street art on Rue de Général Charles De Gaulle.

MT 9:37 AM - Pape'ete: street art on Rue de Général Charles De Gaulle (mild telephoto 47 mm).

MT 9:37 AM - Pape'ete: street art, just to left of that, on Rue de Général Charles De Gaulle (telephoto 80 mm).

9:36 AM - Pape'ete: more street art on Rue de Général Charles De Gaulle - the flowery vahine.

The flowery vahine by the artist Vinie Graffiti is always a delight to see painted on a wall at the end of Rue de Général Charles De Gaulle, covering the wall of the Vice-Presidency of the Government. This image of a beautiful vahine with a mass of flowers in her hair is one of the favorites because of her wholesome, unreserved beauty. It is a breath of fresh air on the streets of Pape’ete. The soft and gentle figure exudes an air of contentment.
 
A vahine (plural vahine) is a Polynesian woman, especially one from Tahiti. The women of Tahiti are all Vahines whose beauty is said to equal that of women in the rest of the world. The word wahine came into English in the late 18th century from Maori, the language of the Polynesian people native to New Zealand; it was originally used for a Maori woman, especially a wife. The word is also used for a woman in Hawaiian and Tahitian, although spelled vahine in the latter.

MT 9:38 AM - Pape'ete: more street art on Rue de Général Charles De Gaulle - surfer (mild telephoto 41 mm).

MT 9:39 AM - Pape'ete: more street art on Rue de Général Charles De Gaulle - Don with huge wave.

9:44 AM - Pape'ete: Temple Paofai Protestant Church - façade.

The Temple Paofai (Paofai Protestant Church) is considered to be the heart of the Evangelical Church in French Polynesia. It is located across from the Paofai Gardens, near the seafront, slightly off the main road (Boulevard de la Reine Pomare IV). It has peach-colored walls and a pale green roof. The windows of the building have plain white pointed arches, The bell tower has a larger window, a clock, and a high, pointed spire.
 

Pape'ete: Temple Paofai - bell tower and east side (Par Saga70 — Travail personnel, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=94247463).

 
The church traces its foundation to 1797, when Protestant missionaries of the London Missionary Society landed in Tahiti. In 1820, the first chapel, made of woven bamboo, was built. In 1908, a new, larger building was inaugurated, built of stones from the nearby Tumarama marae (traditional Polynesian open-air temple). In 1981, a new temple was built, preserving only the bell tower-porch of the 1908 building.

9:49 AM - Pape'ete: Temple Paofai Protestant Church - west side.

MT 9:48 AM - Pape'ete: street art - whale and wave (telephoto 81 mm).

MT 9:49AM - Pape'ete: more street art with madonna, near that church (telephoto 73 mm).

MT 9:49AM - Pape'ete: colorful wild chicken (mild telephoto 39 mm).

10:08 AM - Pape'ete: MT approaching Presidential Palace - east side.

10:09 AM - Pape'ete: Presidential Palace - main façade and entrance on north side.

The Présidence de la Polynésie Française (Presidency of French Polynesia) or Palais pésidentiel de la Polynésie (Presidential Palace of French Polynesia) is the official residence of the President of French Polynesia. The building was constructed between 1885 and 1890 to serve as a military barracks. From the end of WWII until 1996, the building housed a French gendarmerie barracks. After the barracks were returned to French Polynesia, its President launched the restoration and redevelopment of the building as a government palace, trying to maintain the principles of 19th-century colonial military architecture while adapting it to the requirements of modern comfort. The reconstruction work lasted from 1996 to 2000. In 2004, the newly elected President considered giving the palace up in order to save money. Thus, he initially planned to transform the building into a maternity hospital. Then, in 2011, he announced that he wanted to “rent” the building, while not ruling out the possibility of transforming it into a school. When a new President was elected in 2013, the palace became the office and official residence of the President.

MT 10:11AM - Pape'ete: Presidential Palace - main façade and entrance on north side (mild telephoto 49 mm).

MT 10:46 AM - Pape'ete: Presidential Palace - more street art near "Shoping Center"; writing in French at bottom translates: "My spirit is in France, my heart is in China, my soul is in Tahiti, my identity is in songs."

At 1:30 pm, we went to the meeting place where we met our guide Bernie for the shore excursion "West Coast Highlights" at the end of the pier.

The My Viking Journey web site described the shore excursion “West Coast Highlights” as follows:
 
$99 Per Person
Day 21 – Tahiti (Papeete), French Polynesia
Thursday, November 30
8:30 AM / 1:15 PM
4 Hours
MODERATE
NATURAL WORLD
SIGHTSEEING
 
Tropical Flora and Historic Sights of Tahiti
Explore unspoiled nature on Tahiti’s coast, and learn more about the beautiful plants and animals on the island.
 
You will be welcomed by your experienced local guide and head to Vaipahi Gardens to admire rare species of tropical flowers. Visit Ārahurahu Marae, a sacred site situated in a picturesque valley. Enjoy a short stroll as your guide explains its religious significance to pre-Christian Polynesian societies. After [that], head to the tranquil setting of the Maraa Grotto. Located on a trail off the mountain side of the coastal road, its two caves feature crystal clear pools ringed by lush vegetation and fed by the water that trickles down the moss-covered mountain. According to local lore, this scene inspired the later works of French post-impressionist painter Paul Gauguin. Following a brief introduction, enjoy free time to explore independently; pause to soak up the peaceful atmosphere and natural beauty surrounding you. Later, you will return to your awaiting ship.

 Our first stop was at the Vaipahi Gardens.

The Jardins D’eau De Vaipahi (Water Gardens of Vaipahi), on the southwest coast of Tahiti Nui (meaning “big Tahiti,” the larger, northwestern part of Tahiti), about 30 miles (an hour’s drive) from Papéete. It is a historical religious site of purification and rebirth of the departed souls of the Teva clan. Markers throughout the garden tell the story. Established since 2007, the gardens can be visited in two stages. First, in the lower part, it is possible to observe numerous botanical species and water plants, while discovering the vestiges of the past and the legend of the place. Visitors will find more than 75 plant species from all over the world (marked with signs and information in French, Tahitian, and English), exotic flowers, a lily pond, and streams that wind through the area. In the upper part, there are 3 hiking routes.
All of the water in the Vaipahi Gardens comes from Vaihiria Lake, which is part of the legend of Hina and Coconut tree. The main waterfall in the gardens, Vaipahi Waterfall, is also a part of ancient beliefs; people believed that you could feel the “mighty breath of the spirit of the waters” here.

2:30 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi: with sign near entrance for "Jardins D’eau De Vaipahi  -Vaipahi Water Gardens," with the greeting "'ia ora na" (Tahitian for hello).

2:31 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi: our guide Bernie (with colorful shirt and white beard) and  part of our tour group, near entrance.

2:32 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi: Bernie telling us this ginger plant has yellow flowers.

2:33 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi: banana trees.

2:34 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi: another kind of ginger.

2:34 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi: closer view of that ginger plant.

3296 2:34 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi: sign, in French and English, with map of the gardens (mild telephoto 58 mm); most of the text is too small to read, but the headings of the English text (first, down the left side) read:

"A novel blend of pines and mape trees

"The magic perfume of the [lilies] in blossom will [enchant] you" (under photo of white water lily)

"The fragrant [path?concealed?] between two beautiful falls"

English at the top of the right side reads:

"Beware of vegetable pests!!!

"This journey will also incite you to lean over the invading plants and other pests hidden here and there in the landscape. Be on the lookout!"

2:35 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi: an internet site about these gardens (https://gardentravelguide.com/water-gardens-vaipahi/) identifies this as "Etlingera elatoir. the porcelain rose, Water Gardens Paipahi" [however, Etlingera elatioris is also known as "torch ginger"].

2:36 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi: sign, in French, English, and Tahitian, for "Vaipahi - Gushing and Mighty Waters"; the English text reads: "Following meticulous directions and incantations of Te'ura-Hamano, the  spiritual entity was plunged imto the quivering waters of Vai'o'o, thus beginning the purification journey. Light and humble after the bath, it was cleansed from the stains of its life by the mighty breath of the gushing waters of the Vaipahi waterfall." To the right is a photo of the waterfall.

The souls were taken to Te'ura-i-Hamano, the high priestess of death. The gushing waters of the Vaipahi Waterfall detached souls from the defilements that stuck to their skin. Having completed an imposed ritual, they obtained the eternal rest offered in the garden of delight of the Rohotu-No’ano’a paradise of the Ma’ohi people.

2:36 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi: Vaipahi Waterfall, with pink ginger in foreground.

 

 

Pink variety of Alpina purpurata, (Par Alberto Rubio N. https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100016510568980 — Travail personnel, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=70959420).

 
Alpina purpurata, the flowering plant called Opuhi in Tahiti, is also known as red ginger, red lavender, pink ginger, or pink lavender. It has cartilaginous bracts of red or pink. The white flowers, often aborted in cultivation, are barely visible inside the bracts.
 
The Vaipahi Waterfall, along one of the garden trails, is about 20 m high.
 

Water Gardens of Vaipahi: Vaipahi Waterfall, with pink ginger in foreground (By Balou46, Own Work at https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:FP-tahiti-vaipahi.jpg).

  

2:37 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi: Vaipahi Waterfall, with pool beneath it.

MT 2:38 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi: MT and Don at Vaipahi Waterfall.

MT 2:41 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi: Our guide 

Bernie showing us a type of rubber tree (telephoto 56 mm).

2:39 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  Bernie with more of that rubber tree.

2:40 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  another tree of same kind.

2:41 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  red torch ginger.

2:42 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  sign, with title with Latin name, French, English, and Tahitian, for "Hedychium coronarium Zingiberacea - Gingembre sauvage - White ginger, Butterfly lily - Avapuhi keoken"; the rest of the sign is only in French and English, of which the English parts read:

"Origin: Himalaya, South West of China

"Cultivated for its fragrant white flowers showing a yellow heart. The plant is known as 'butterfly lily' due to its similarity with a flying butterfly."

2:43 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  Bernie with white flowers (lilies?).

2:43 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  same white flowers (lilies?) (telephoto 109 mm).

MT 2:44 PM  - Water Gardens of Vaipahi: same white flowers, although sign at base of that plant, in French and English, is for the unrelated  "Abre à pain - Breadfruit tree" (mild telephoto 35 mm).

2:45 PM (Cropped) - Water Gardens of Vaipahi: sign, in French and English, with title "Artocarpus altilis Moraceae - Abre à pain - Breadfruit tree - Uru maiore" (Latin, French, English, and Tahitian); English text reads:

" Origin - New Guinea

"Part of Polynesian culture, providing an important traditional staple food, and used in folk medicine. The nutritious fruit can be preserved to produce edible content throughout the year. Tens of varieties have been cultivated, producing fruits in different [shapes] and tastes. The lightweight [trunk?] was  used as timber for outrigger canoes."

2:46 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  elephant ear plant, with red-leafed plant behind it (telephoto 93 mm).

2:47 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  heliconia plants, similar to bird of paradise (telephoto 79 mm).

2:48 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  plant with pink Tahitian water lily.

2:48 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  plant with pink Tahitian water lily (telephoto 93 mm).

2:49 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  Bernie with banyan tree.

MT 2:49 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  banyan trees.

2:49 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  pond with lilies.

2:49 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  lavender lily in that pond (telephoto 130 mm).

2:56 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  Bernie made cuts in the bark of a rubber-like tree, and sticky sap came out.

3:01 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  small tree with many red flowers and bush with white flowers at right.

MT 3:03 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  wild chicken with two chicks (mild telephoto 37 mm).

Then we got back on the bus.

3:08 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  Bernie and our group back on the bus.

3:09 PM - Water Gardens of Vaipahi:  clock at front of the bus showing "15:10" (telephoto 130 mm).

The bus went back along the West Coast the same way we had come. We soon came to the village of Mataiea.

Mataiea is an associated commune (pop. 5,391) on the southern end of west coast of Tajhiti. It is the administrative center of the commune of Teva I Uta. Between 1891 and 1893, Paul Gauguin lived in Mataiea. The village has two notable buildings: the Church of St. John the Baptist (1857) and the quirky Protestant Church of Mataiea.

First. we passed the Protestant Church of Mataiea.

3:17 PM - Mataiea:  view, through bus window, of Protestant Church (telephoto 68 mm).

The Temple protestant de Mataiea (Protestant Church of Mataiea) has an original architecture that is far removed from the traditional Polynesian style but does not reflect Western religious architecture either. The designer was inspired by a postcard representing a mosque, with a large dome and a small minaret as a bell tower. Construction began in 1932 and lasted for 7 years. The church was inaugurated in 1939. The parish undertook to completely restore the temple, but the work has dragged out due to lack of financial resources.
For a clear photo of the church, see https://www.tahitiheritage.pf/temple-protestant-mataiea/.

Then we passed the Church of Saint John the Baptist, still in Mataiea

3:20 PM - Mataiea:  view, through bus window, of Church of St. John the Baptist.

 

The Église de Saint-Jean Baptiste (Church of Saint John the Baptist) of Mataiea is a Catholic church in the Metropolitan Archdiocese of Pape’ete. Construction began in 1857, during an intense period of construction of Catholic buildings. It was the first stone church (of coral blocks) built in French Polynesia. It was inaugurated in 1858.

 

Mataiea: Church of St. John the Baptist (By Saga70 - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=131036050).

 

The next town we came to was Papara.

Papara is a commune of French Polynesia located on the southwest coast of Tahiti Nui.

3:29 PM - Papara:  view, through bus window, of Protestant Church of Papara.

The first Temple protestant de Papara (Protestant Church of Papara), located at PK 36 (36 km from Pape’ete) was a small stone church, built on land gifted to the Protestant parish by the Salmon family in the 1800s. The walls were built of cut stone consolidated with lime, coming from coral. Construction lasted nearly 15 years, and it was inaugurated in 1903. In 1999, it was replaced by a large construction with a belfry housing a large bronze bell.

Papara: Protestant Church of Papara (By Saga70 - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=131037787).

 

Next, we passed the Catholic Church of St. Michael, also in Papara.

3:30 PM - Papara:  view, through bus window, of Church of St. Michael.

The Catholic Église Saint-Michel de Papara (Church of St. Michael of Papara) was built in 1990. The first Catholic mission was established in Papara district in 1855. The first church in Papara, dedicated to St. Michael, was built in 1899. All that remains of that first church is a stone erected in the courtyard. The current church, rebuilt in 1990, has magnificent stained-glass windows. To compete with the Protestant Church of Papara, which underwent a facelift in 2016, the parishioners of St. Michael wanted to give their church a new look in 2017, painted in white and brown. Unfortunately, they later regretted the choice of colors, which replaced the old pink-ochre color.

Papara: Church of St. Michael (By Saga70 - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=131037686).

For a photo of the Church of St. Michael in its previous colors, see https://www.tahitiheritage.pf/eglise-de-papara/.

Our next stop was at the Grotte de Mara'a.

The Grotte de Mara’a, or Grottes de Mara’a (Grottos of Mara’a), is located on the outskirts of the town of Paea. It is composed of three natural caves hollowed out of the rock.  The ceilings of the caves are covered with ferns and moss. A permanent trickle of water soaking through the rocks from the ferns above has formed pools of cool, clear water. The largest cave is called Te-ana-pape-o-Vai-poiri. An optical illusion gives the impression that its arched ceiling stoops down at the edges, making it seem much smaller than it actually is. The other two caves, called Mata-va’a and Vai-patoto, are much smaller.

3:40 PM - Grotte de Mara'a:  sign, near entrance, for "Grotte de Maraa"; at the top is the greeting "Welcome" in Tahitian, French, and English.

3:40 PM - Grotte de Mara'a:  sign pointing left to "Grotte Vaipoiri" and right to  "Grottes Mata Va'a [and] Teanateatea."

3:41 PM - Grotte de Mara'a:  Grotte Vaipoiri - with water dripping from rain at the top; MT in right foreground, overexposed like others from our group.

MT 3:42 PM - Grotte de Mara'a:  Grotte Vaipoiri - people swimming in the pool, despite a No Swimming sign in French.

MT 3:43 PM - Grotte de Mara'a:  Grotte Vaipoiri - deeper look into cave and pool with people swimming.

3:42 PM - Grotte de Mara'a:  Grotte Vaipoiri - vegetation above the grotto.

3:42 PM - Grotte de Mara'a:  Grotte Vaipoiri - rocks and vegetation higher above the grotto, with chain link fencing to keep rocks from falling.

3:42 PM - Grotte de Mara'a:  Grotte Vaipoiri - rocks and vegetation even higher above the grotto, near top of the rocks.

3:43 PM - Grotte de Mara'a:  Grotte Vaipoiri - roof of the grotto, with hanging ferns.

3:48 PM - Grotte de Mara'a:  sign for "Restrooms" to the left and "Grotte de Vaipoiri" to the right, from which we had just come.

3:48 PM - Grotte de Mara'a:  sign for "Grotte de Vaipoiri," back to the left, from which we had just been with our group, and to the right toward "Grottes Mata Va'a [and] Teanateatea," where only we and a few others went.

MT 3:50 PM - Grotte de Mara'a:  MT along path toward Grotte Mata Va'a (mild telephoto 39 mm).

3:51 PM - Grotte de Mara'a:  view, from path, into Grotte Mata Va'a.

MT 3:53 PM - Grotte de Mara'a:  view, from path, into Grotte Mata Va'a (mild telephoto 47 mm).

3:53 PM - Grotte de Mara'a:  sign, by path, of sign for "Grotte Mata Va'a" with "Warning Falling Rocks" in French and English (mild telephoto 47 mm ).

Our third and last stop was at a reconstructed temple, the 'Ārahurahu Marae.

The ‘Ārahurahu Marae, near the town of Paea, is an archaeological site that was restored in 1953. The site reflects part of the culture original Polynesians (Ma’ohi) that thrived in French Polynesia before the arrival of the first Europeans. Typical of the ancient cultural centers (marae), there are a tahua (sacred square or courtyard), a patu (surrounding wall), an ahu (altar), and red unu (wooden boards carved with animal motifs symbolizing the identity of a social group) dedicated to the taura (wooden sculptures dedicated to the guardian spirits). Located at the base of a cliff, surrounded by a vast, green jungle, this sacred three-story marae structure of black stone was built as an ancient temple or meeting place for rituals. The ancient stone platform was used for religious ceremonies. Stone pens near the entrance were used to keep pigs before they were sacrificed to the gods. A trail liked with tikis leads to the marae. ‘Ārahurahu is the only marae in all of French Polynesia that has been fully restored, and it is maintained like a museum.
Ancient Polynesians bult marae as places to worship their gods, Life across Polynesia was once defined by ritual power, and in many places chiefs were too sacred to actually look at. Beyond acting as a place of worship, this particular marae was used for important events from war councils to weddings to celebrating battle victories. Today, many locals still appear for worship, meetings, and celebrations, keeping some old traditions alive.
See https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:%27%C4%80rahurahu_Marae for photos of ‘Ārahurahu Marae.

4:06 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: part of our group approaching a tiki near the entrance.

A tiki (ti-i in Tahitian) is a wooden or stone carving in humanoid form. It is often depicted as a statue or in relief on wood. In most Polynesian cultures, tikis represent deified ancestors. They often serve to mark the boundaries of sacred or significant sites. A tiki is rather stocky, with arms usually resting on its stomach. Its head is often out of proportion compared to the rest of the body. It usually has large eyes, a flat nose, and a broad, smiling face. The face is so expressive that the large eyes give the impression that it is looking at you while observing what is happening around. The mouth is usually open and makes you think it is shouting.
Some tikis are stone statues that are guardians that meet visitors at the entrance to a marae. The ones at ‘Ārahurahu Marae are not true archaeological monuments but are replicas of tikis from Ra’ivavae Island in French Polynesia and were made in 1953.

MT 4:07 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: closer view of that tiki (mild telephoto 36 mm).

MT 4:10 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: another, similar tiki nearby (telephoto 64 mm).

4:06 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: side view of first tiki.

4:09 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: another view of second tiki (mild telephoto 58 mm).

4:09 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: sign, in French, Tahitian, English, and an oriental language, saying "It is forbidden to climb on the marae - Thank you."

4:13 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: tree with green fuit (possibly avocados).

MT 4:13 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: closer view of green fuit (possibly avocados)  (telephoto 82 mm).

4:15 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: front side of three-story marae  (telephoto 93 mm).

4:19 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: closer view of front side of three-story marae with green vegetables left as offering, on front of wall; part of our group going to other side.

MT 4:18 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: side view of three-story marae (mild telephoto 52 mm).

4:20 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: back side view of three-story marae.

4:20 PM (Paint) - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: thin totem (see red circle) by forest in distance past rear end of three-story marae.

4:25 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: that thin totem (stone or wood figure like a tiki but with two faces) (telephoto 130 mm).

4:27 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: another driver/guide and a tour group member with vegetables left as offerings at corner of marae.

 MT 4:30 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: vegetables left as offerings at corner of marae (mild telephoto 35 mm).

4:31 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: stone pavement on flat area in front of the three-story marae.

Then we got back on the bus at 4:37-38 pm to continue our trip back to Pape'ete.

4:37 PM - ‘Ārahurahu Marae: digital clock at front of bus reading "16:38" (telephoto 130 mm ).

4:41 PM - Paea:  view, through bus window, of St. Frncais Xavier Church.

The Catholic Église Saint-Francois-Xavier de Paea (Church of Saint Francis Xavier of Paea) is located in the town of Paea in Tahiti. The parish of St. Francis Xavier was created in 1855, but the faithful had to wait 22 years (1877) to finally see the construction of the all-stone church. Some sources say it is one of the few stone churches in Tahiti, and at least one source calls it the "first church in Tahiti."
 

Paea: Église Saint-Francois-Xavier de Paea (By Garegnani Denis - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=81618370).

 

5:12 PM - Paea:  digital clock at front of bus reading "17:13" when we were almost back to our ship (telephoto 130 mm).

Although the Viking Daily newsletter said the duration of this tour would be 4 hours, it also said that all passengers needed to be back on board by 5:00, as the Viking Star prepared to set sail for our next stop at Taiohae, Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia (764 nautical miles). We actually rerurned to the ship around 5:15.

6:14 PM - Pape'ete:  view of port and marina from Viking Star, still at pier near sunset (panorama).

According to the Viking Daily newsletter, sunset was supposed to be at 6:19.

MT 6:15 PM - Pape'ete:  view of marina and mountain from Viking Star, still at pier near sunset (telephoto 57 mm).

6:18 PM - Pape'ete:  view from Viking Star, still at pier at  beginning of sunset (mild telephoto 42 mm).

6:21 PM - Pape'ete:  view from Viking Star, still at pier (bottom left) at  beginning of sunset.

6:21 PM - Pape'ete:  view from Viking Star, still at pier at  beginning of sunset.

6:22 PM - Pape'ete:  view from Viking Star, still at pier at  sunset (panorama).

MT 6:23 PM - Pape'ete:  view from Viking Star, still at pier at sunset.

MT 6:25 PM - Pape'ete:  Don and MT on Viking Star, still at pier at sunset.